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Chefoo 9805 Movement

trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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I have a rather nice wooden wall clock. Chefoo 9805 Movement.
One of the springs has broken. I'd like to replace it. Not necessarily
with the same Chinese model. The dimensions are 3.5 " wide X 4" high.
Here are pics. The first shows the broken spring...

thanks for your advice in advance!

Mark

284.jpg 283.jpg
 

Willie X

Registered User
Feb 9, 2008
15,004
1,865
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On these movement the spring rarely breaks.

Commonly the click (ratchet) fails and allows the spring to unwind with such force that the spring unhooks at the inner coil.

Broken spring or unhooked spring. Both problems are not that hard to repair, assuming no collateral damage.

The arbor has a retainer clip on the back. Take the clip off and slide the arbor forward about 1/8". Line up the slots in the arbor with the slot in the front plate and the arbor, spring and barrel, will slide right out. The main-wheel fits onto the barrel bayonet style. You might need a leather glove and a large pair of pliers to unlock the barrel from the wheel/gear. Once the gear is off, you will be able to see exactly what happened to the spring.

Good luck, Willie X
 

trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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Hi Willie

Thanks for your help.

I took the retaining clip off the back but the arbor will not budge.
it sure would be great if somebody had Skype and then I could show you by video exactly what my problem is. Let me clarify where I am, there is a small part of the Arbor that's on the back of the clock has a clip, I have removed that clip. The front part of the Arbor is also a piece used by the key to wind, it is square, wrapped around that part of the Arbor is a spring with a retaining hook. I'm not sure how I could slide the Arbor out through the front of the face and thereby removing the wheel and the spring out from the side of the movement. Another interesting fact is that the housing for the spring has little notches that fit into the cogwheel area and stay in place so when the wheel turns by being wound it turns the spring. Here are pics of the offending spring housing, you can see it is not engaged with the wheel.
288.jpg 287.jpg 286.jpg 285.jpg
 
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wow

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Jun 24, 2008
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Like Willie said, the whole spring and housing will slide out of the plates because of a slot in the front plate under the click wheel. You did remove the click wheel from the front side of the winding arbor, didn't you? If you remove that wheel, you will see a slot in the plate. Pull up on the arbor and turn it so the square section of that arbor lines up with the slot in the plate. Let us know if this works and we can walk you through the spring removal and repair.
 
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trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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Hi Will
Took the click wheel off, but the arbor will not fit through the exit slot on the front plate.
Mainly because the square arbor is too big as is the rounded part below it. I tried pulling the arbor towards me, away from the front plate, but it will not budge...


293.jpg 292.jpg 290.jpg
 

wow

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Jun 24, 2008
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You may need to tap the arbor on the rear side of the movement to get it to move. Use a brass hammer or use something like a piece of wood between the arbor and your hammer so you will not damage the end of the arbor. Once it moves, you should be able to turn the arbor with the winding key and line up the arbor so it will slide out through the slot. let us know what happens.

The first photo in your last post shows tha you are going to need bushing work. The plates will need to be opened and bushings replaced. This is a pretty major job for a beginner. That is why I asked if you were going to replace the whole movement or just repair the spring. Just repairing the spring will not be enough.
 

trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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Thanks again guys!

It looks as though the teeth on the barrel do not want to engage the wheel.
I have tried adjusting the arbor to no avail..

Fuzzy pic:

fr_293_size880.jpg
 

wow

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Jun 24, 2008
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You will need to twist the barrel so it will release from the wheel( gear) . Once you get those apart, you can remove the spring from the barrel. Use gloves to remove the spring. It has lots of power.
 

trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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You rock!

Nutjob
I think I have found a new hobby.. LOL
Barrel and spring back in place and winds!
Now I think I am missing a part when it comes to the pendulum.
Here is a pic of what I have, but I can't seem to figure out how to assemble it.


tn_294.jpg tn_295.jpg tn_296.jpg
 

wow

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Jun 24, 2008
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There should be a suspension spring somewhere which connects the leader(laying on the table in first photo) to the top of the back of the movement. You first must turn the leader perpendicular to the movement and slide it on the crutch into the hole in the leader. Then connect it to the rack at the top with the small suspension spring(if you have it). The pendulum connects to the leader.
 

trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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The connector you refer to is missing.
I have circled the leader and item attached to the back plate that it connects too..
Can I jerry rig it for now? With a paper clip etc? Or should I order it?

tn_298.jpg
 

wow

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It is a flat spring, so anything rigid will not work. Rigging it usually does not work, but you could try for fun. Try a couple of pieces of fishing line tied side by side or something similar. Then order the spring. I also noticed that the crutch is bent. The part of the crutch which goes through the hole in the leader should be perpendicular to the back plate. It has been bent downward. Once you bend it back right, you will be able to tell how long your rig for the suspension should be.

As I said before, once you get it back together, it is probably not going to operate properly because of the condition of the bushings. It needs a complete overhaul. These movements are not made well, and do not last long. Replacing it with a new one, if you can find one, will be much more costly than the value of the clock. However, it's a great clock to get your feet wet on. I think you've got the clock bug like the rest of us on this website.
 
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trubrit

Registered User
Oct 31, 2014
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Do you know the name of that part? I will research images and ordering sources.


Mark
 

Stephen Baguley

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Jan 10, 2018
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I worked on one of these for the first time a couple of weeks ago, needed the friction clutch of the pallet sorting it was loose. And several re bushes. Apart from that easy to work on including taking the springs out. Now I have 3 more to work on. Started the 2nd one last night. and that needs re bushing, so will get on with that today . Case is pretty good. The plates are steel sprayed to look like brass. Cheap and cheerful movement. Also the fan Fly is unusual, is spins and centrefugal force moves the arms out and the plastic part pushes against the plate to slow the strike down. Much easier to work on than the 31 day korean clocks that have the open mainsprings. worked on 2 of them, and had to use large clamps and plastic ties to line up the springs, held around the springs and columns with the spring loops on. Some repairers won't touch the korean 31 day clocks.

31 day chinese clock wayne of denton springs ut.JPG rebush front.JPG rebush rear.JPG P1160906.JPG
 
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Fitzclan

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Jul 20, 2014
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Stephen, can you post a couple of pictures showing the suspension spring along with the suspension set-up?
I think that is what the op needs to see.
 

Stephen Baguley

Registered User
Jan 10, 2018
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I hope this helps, the brass coloured back cock and suspension is one that is ready to be re bushed. Cheap and cheerful thin plates. Steel sprayed with brass coloured paint. That was evident when I re bushed the one with the black back cock , which is now running on test stand. I also hate the cross head screws and circlips on these cheap movements. The replacement bushes are probably better than the original pivot holes. I must admit though the pivots seem ok on the one I have already worked on and the one that needs re bushing.
 

shutterbug

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Bear in mind that the OP posted 7 years ago ;)
 

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