Case remedy.

[Bruce W Sims]

Hi Folks:

I have been encountering a few hunter cases where the cover is sprung somewhat.
This is to say that while the cover still secures and releases, there is a space close to the hinge and it is plain that the cover has been somewhat over-extended against the hinge.

Has anyone found a decent method for addressing this, or do I need to learn to live with it? I'm guessing these base-metal cases would not tolerate much metal working.

Thoughts?

 

[karlmansson]

If there is a gap at the hinge I think it would be a safer bet that the hinge is simply worn. The method of adressing this is to desolder the existing hinge tubes, filing a fresh seat for a new tube once the lid has been adjusted to a proper fit again, making a new tube, soldering pieces in place individually in both lid and case and then fitting them together and broaching in place with a conical broach. Then you make, or use, a new taper pin, adjust for proper fit and friction and if you want it to look really nice, you plug the holes left in the hinge after filing to the case profile with a material matching the case. Often silver or gold. I did this a while back and I'll see if I can post some pictures that will hopefulle help it make sense. The process is also descibed in George Daniels "Watchmaking".

Regards
Karl

 

[darrahg]

Karl gives a great explanation of how to replace the entire hinge however, just sometimes, a case hinge area can be pressed or gently hammered and reformed in that area using a small wooden mallet or something similar like dapping tools. Jewelers or someone that has experience in case work is recommended here. Pics would be great to show the exact type of deformation. Good luck, DA

 

[Bruce W Sims]

I have Daniels' book. Didn't think to look. Let me take a peek and if I don't find what
I need I'll post some pics so everyone can see what I am talking about.

Thanks for the input........

 

[karlmansson]

The aforementioned process:

 

[SKennedy]

Its not clear which order you did the soldering in there but, from experience....
If you're replacing all parts of a three piece joint (or making it new) its much simpler to solder on the side with two tubes (or cheneers as they were called) first. You can then make the single tube to length to fit perfectly between the two you've soldered. Then you've only got the one piece to solder on where position to the case is more critical.

 

[karlmansson]

Its not clear which order you did the soldering in there but, from experience....
If you're replacing all parts of a three piece joint (or making it new) its much simpler to solder on the side with two tubes (or cheneers as they were called) first. You can then make the single tube to length to fit perfectly between the two you've soldered. Then you've only got the one piece to solder on where position to the case is more critical.

That's the way I did it. The first couple of pictures on the soldering block is me removing the old tube.