Bushing replacement question

[John Tosto]

Hi All,


It seems that a must have skill for clock repair is bushing replacement, I have watch videos where different methods are used and have a few questions.

There seems to be to major brands/manufactures KWM and Bergeron, is this like Windows vs MAC and it just depends on which you cut your teeth on first or does one manufacturer provide an advantage over the other?

So far I have seen three different methods of preforming this task, manual with hand tools, adaptor plate which allows you to use a drill press and the grand daddy the bushing press tool.

Because I am just starting out and doing this as a hobbyist I am going the route of hand tools as it in the least expensive, is there a reason I should consider the more expensive alternatives?

Also I have a K&D 18 inverto watch staking tool set which already has reamers, if the correct size exist in the set can I use the staking tool to ream the pivot? If not is there so sort of adaptor that allows me to use the staking set to ream and set bushings?



Any pointers in picking out the right tools/equipment is greatly appreciated.



John

 

[wow]

KWM bushings are smaller in OD than Bergeron. That is the basic difference. I prefer KWM because smaller OD bushings fit in tight places.
Hand bushing is much cheaper but keeping the reamer perpendicular is sometimes difficult making the bushing crooked. With a bushing machine or mill the plate is clamped and the reamer is perfectly perpendicular to the plate. I am not familiar with the staking tool you have. The reamers that come with KWM or Bergeron are exactly the right size for the OD of the bushings. Most people start with hand tools and end up with a bushing machine or mill.

 

[Dick Feldman]

There are seasoned clock repair people that use hand bushing techniques every day, all day.
I guess that makes it a viable method to use.
Because of the set up time, I do not think that bushing with a machine saves a lot of time if that is a consideration.
I would recommend NOT using a drill press.
Most of the quills on those can not maintain the tolerance needed for bushing work.
If one spends enough money on a high quality drill press, the same amount can be spent on a small, precise mill and the mill will have multiple uses.
A QUALITY mill is an option. Emphasis on Quality.
With Asian made mills, tolerances cannot be maintained.
Asian made tooling pieces are normally not precise enough.
Precise enough for lawn mowers, etc. but not clock work.
Like Shtterbug, I prefer the KWM system and use US made bushings because of cost.
I would recommend you find a mentor, at least to get you headed in the correct direction.
The NAWCC is an ideal place to find help there.
Then it is practice, practice and more of the same.
My opinion only, not gospel.
Best of luck,
Dick

 

[Vernon]

Hi John,
I think that it makes sense to start out with bushing by hand and learn this skill up front. You will buy a handle with reamers for this and these will be used in other machinery anyway if you decide. Consider a good spring winder such as an Ollie Baker, a letdown set with handle which fits in the Ollie Baker, spring clamps and a set of mainspring sleeves.

What state are you in?

Vernon

 

[R. Croswell]

One of the main reasons that many beginner's clocks run poorly after "repair" is because of poorly centered bushings, crooked bushings, and bushings that fall out. This is more likely to happen when hand bushing methods are employed by persons with minimal or developing skills. But be assured that even with a mill or "bushing machine" one who does not know how to use these, or their limitations can easily screw up a bushing job. I did my first bushing with a used Bergeon bushing machine which is still my method of choice. I usually use the Swiss Bergeon bushings, I don't mind the extra cost for my own clocks, and the cost is passed on to customers. I would not ream bushing holes under power with a drill press, but when turned by hand the drill press will keep the reamer perpendicular. As for quill runout and looseness (not the same thing) in a drill press, that is not usually a problem unless the drill press is powered. The most important thing with any method is to locate the center of the original pivot hole and "round it up" (make the egg-shaped hole round) before attempting to ream the hole. Once the hole is round and centered the reamer will follow the hole as long as it is held perpendicular to the plate with whatever tool or fixture is used to hold it.

RC

 

[John Tosto]

Thanks Will, Dick ,Vernon and RC I appreciate you all taking the time to reply. The information was helpful and I will be ordering the KWM bushing hand tools, every where I have look the ollie baker is a waiting list I will most likely order when I order the bushing tool as I don't need now but know I will eventually. I assume I will need some broaches as well.

Vernon I live In Massachusetts.

 

[John Tosto]

Along with tools I will need a "practice clock" as well and will be poking around on ebay. Which leads to more questions.

Is there a manufacturer/model that is preferred.

Does it need or help if the clock is complete, why do I think that is a needed possibility? I complete bushing the pivot, now how do I know if I was successful and did it correctly. I suspect some will be visually, is the bushing flush and flat and not at an angle, does the wheel spin freely but how do I know if I kept the original center? What test or inspections need to be done, what should I look for that would indicate I did it incorrectly? In the end again if the clock was complete I assume the finally test would be does it run and keep proper time.

John

 

[JayKosta]

In there any online instruction about how to use hand reamers to produce correctly CENTERED round holes from worn egg-shapes.
For example, does anyone draw a centered round 'witness circle' as a guide for the reaming?
yea, beginner stuff - but trying to understand what I might be getting into!

 

[Dick Feldman]

I would recommend you find a mentor, at least to get you headed in the correct direction.

From post #3 of this thread.
You will save yourself a lot of time and effort. Even a mentor that is not so good will teach good lessons.
D

 

[Uhralt]

Can you post a picture of your reamers? They may not be what you need for bushings.

Uhralt

 

[Dick Feldman]

In there any online instruction about how to use hand reamers to produce correctly CENTERED round holes from worn egg-shapes.
For example, does anyone draw a centered round 'witness circle' as a guide for the reaming?
yea, beginner stuff - but trying to understand what I might be getting into!

I have found that online sources are many times not reliable.
Many of those posters have less experience but the ability and willingness to wave their flag.
Your profile does not say where you live. The USA is a big place.
A good source of general information is This Old Clock, by David S Goodman.
That should be available through your local library or for sale on Amazon and eBay.
Best Regards,
Dick

 

[John Tosto]

From post #3 of this thread.
You will save yourself a lot of time and effort. Even a mentor that is not so good will teach good lessons.
D

Hi Dick great idea how do I go about doing that?

 

[Mike Mall]

I suspect some will be visually, is the bushing flush and flat and not at an angle, does the wheel spin freely but how do I know if I kept the original center?
John

Many use a 'preacher' for this. If you search the board for preacher these are mentioned in several threads.

 

[R. Croswell]

Along with tools I will need a "practice clock" as well and will be poking around on ebay. Which leads to more questions.

Is there a manufacturer/model that is preferred.

Does it need or help if the clock is complete, why do I think that is a needed possibility? I complete bushing the pivot, now how do I know if I was successful and did it correctly. I suspect some will be visually, is the bushing flush and flat and not at an angle, does the wheel spin freely but how do I know if I kept the original center? What test or inspections need to be done, what should I look for that would indicate I did it incorrectly? In the end again if the clock was complete I assume the finally test would be does it run and keep proper time.

John

* Is there a manufacturer/model that is preferred? I would select an American manufacture and a movement with open springs. A time only movement will be simpler and easier to assess how well you did your bushings by how well it runs. A time and strike movement will provide more opportunities to practice, and you can simply leave out the strike parts if you don't plan to use the completed movement. E. Ingraham movements are pretty easy to reassemble. Seth Thomas would also be good. Avoid Waterbury and Gilbert movements with steel plates (their brass models are OK). Sessions movements almost always have damaged or loose clicks, so avoid these unless you want to practice replacing click rivets. I would avoid New Haven time & strike movements because the strike train is somewhat unusual. I would not recommend any chime movement.

* How do I know if I was successful and did it correctly? Visual inspection will reveal if the bushing is flush on the inside. Place the pivot in the pivot hole and note how far it tilts north, east, south and west. If it tilts the same amount in all directions, the hole is straight. If it leans more in one direction, then the bushing is crooked you fail. The end of the pivot must extend slightly beyond the opening of the bushing. With the arbor vertical between the plates, lift and drop the wheel. There must be some end play and when dropped it must fall back promptly by gravity alone. Turn over and repeat with the other plate up.

* but how do I know if I kept the original center? That's a hard one to answer. Unless you are using a mill and the plate is clamped solidly during the entire bushing process, there is no easy way to accurate way verify center after the fact. And if it is off center, you have a real problem fixing your mistake, so be sure to prep and center the hole before reaming (there have been a number of threads here discussing this). If your bushing is off center, the wheel and pinion will be too close to, or too far from the wheel before, or the wheel after, or both. For these American movements with large pinions or lantern pinions a visual inspection of depthing will be sufficient to verify on a pass/fail basis. AWCI has a good illustration of correct depthing at the links below (one is for cut pinions and one for lantern pinions)

Lantern Pinion Depthing

www.awci.com

Pinion and Wheel Engagement

www.awci.com

* I assume the finally test would be does it run and keep proper time. Yes and no. A clock can run weakly and still be adjusted to keep time and give the illusion that the repairs were OK when in fact there may still be problems, and in all fairness the problems may or may not be due to your bushing job. After the job is complete and all visual inspections pass, all the wheels turn freely by hand, here are a few final inspection tests;
1) With the verge removed, and the strike train released to strike, begin winding the clock and counting the clicks before the wheels start to move. The wheels should start moving almost immediately, typically 2 or 3 clicks.
2) With the clock running and the springs about 1/2 wound, the clock should have visually observable overswing (and recoil if a recoil escapement). Overswing is how far the pendulum continues to swing in the same direction after the escapement "ticks".
3) The American clocks suggested should have at least 1" or more pendulum swing.
4) On a full wind, the clock should run a little beyond the rated run time. An 8-day clock should run at least 9 or 10 days and 12, 13, or 14 is not unusual, although after 7 days don't expect it to be a great timekeeper.

RC

 

[wisty]

A comment from a rank amateur. I think the main reason most people, on this forum, and the ones you see offering advice on the internet, adopt KWM or Bergeron for bushing is not technical superiority but production efficiency i.e. speed. Using Bergeron ( or KWM ) bushings and reamers gets you sets of various sized bushings and reamers that produce holes exactly matched to the bushing OD.
If you are doing 10's of bushings a week on a commercial basis you need to minimise the time it takes, and matched bushings and reamers make things simple and quick. But you do need to make a fair investment. A set of five various sized Bergeron reamers is £100+ plus the bushes to go with them.
Not an issue for someone who does 10's a week, but If like me its a once or twice a year issue because one of my clocks has stopped and servicing reveals the need for a bushing it becomes a different issue (what size do I need, and how long will the reamer and bushes take to get here).
Because I have a small mill and lathe - for other hobby reasons - I would use a suitable small endmill to recut the hole and then turn up a bushing to match on the lathe. Technically just as good, but requiring far more time. But then I have plenty of that.

 

[John Tosto]

I have found that online sources are many times not reliable.
Many of those posters have less experience but the ability and willingness to wave their flag.
Your profile does not say where you live. The USA is a big place.
A good source of general information is This Old Clock, by David S Goodman.
That should be available through your local library or for sale on Amazon and eBay.
Best Regards,
Dick

Hi Dick, I do have a few books already (Clock Repair as a Hobby by Harold Kelly, The Clock Repairer's Handbook by Laurie Penman and Clock Repair Basics by Steven Conover) but will look into the one you suggested.

I have watch a few video's the two that I have scribed to and have been watching is " An Introduction to Antique Clocks by NWCW" and "Scotties Clock World" for Scotties I have watched a few especially the one on bushing using hand tools and thought it was pretty good.

Will need to look at my profile swear I entered Massachusetts USA as location.

 

[JayKosta]

Thanks for info regarding the 'preacher' type tool. I didn't look at very many posts, but I found this one helpful -

pivot hole center locator

Not sure who wanted this but will try to post a couple of pictures of these very hany little tools. Bodies are 3/8" aluminum with 3/32" and 1/8" spindles. Central holes are drilled slightly undersize and lapped in for a tight slide fit. Scribner is tapped in a tight hole and sharpened, in...

mb.nawcc.org

 

[R. Croswell]

A comment from a rank amateur. I think the main reason most people, on this forum, and the ones you see offering advice on the internet, adopt KWM or Bergeron for bushing is not technical superiority but production efficiency i.e. speed. Using Bergeron ( or KWM ) bushings and reamers gets you sets of various sized bushings and reamers that produce holes exactly matched to the bushing OD.
If you are doing 10's of bushings a week on a commercial basis you need to minimise the time it takes, and matched bushings and reamers make things simple and quick. But you do need to make a fair investment. A set of five various sized Bergeron reamers is £100+ plus the bushes to go with them.
Not an issue for someone who does 10's a week, but If like me its a once or twice a year issue because one of my clocks has stopped and servicing reveals the need for a bushing it becomes a different issue (what size do I need, and how long will the reamer and bushes take to get here).
Because I have a small mill and lathe - for other hobby reasons - I would use a suitable small endmill to recut the hole and then turn up a bushing to match on the lathe. Technically just as good, but requiring far more time. But then I have plenty of that.

You can afford a mill and a lathe but can't afford a few KWM and/or Bergeon reamers? I do occasionally find it necessary to turn up a special bushing, but my real reason for using factory reamers and bushings is not speed or money. The concept of skin friction bushings requires very close tolerances of the reamer (hole side) and bushing OD. While I can do an acceptable job, I the factory can hold these dimensions closer. I have always felt that pressing a straight bushing into a taper broached hole and peening etc. was a less desirable method. So in short I feel like for me, I can do a better job if I use precisely manufactured reamers and bushings.

RC

 

[wisty]

You can afford a mill and a lathe but can't afford a few KWM and/or Bergeon reamers?

I can afford them, but at 4-5 bushings/year investing a couple of hundred pounds in reamers and bushings is the issue.
I can turn brass to better than 0.005mm (0.0002") if I am careful, so I can get close to factory tolerance.

 

[John Tosto]

Gathering a list of items to buy, going through Timesavers catalog like I was 6 looking at the Sears Christmas catalog. Two items I ran across that peak my interest and curious what others think.

These don't look too expensive and seem to solve or help with two of the big problem of bushing, locating center of the pivot and keeping the reamer perpendicular with the plate.

Here are the links to the Timesavers catalog, I am sure there are some limitation but for someone just starting seems like a good start.

Clamp-On Bushing Tool For Use With The KWM System

Align tool over a pivot hole and clamp it to your disassembled clock plate, insert the reamer holder and reamer and ream the bushing hole. Upright adapter is included. Reamers, bushings & clock plate

timesavers.com

KWM Clamp On Bushing Tool

Reams bushing holes perpendicular to a clock plate by placing the tool on the plate and holding the reamer in the tool and rotating the reamer with an electric screwdriver. Uses American/KWM reamers

timesavers.com

 

[JayKosta]

IF I WAS SMART !
Before buying those tools, I'd start by taking the movement apart, cleaning, and put it back together - just to have the experience and 'know my capabilities'.
You might be well beyond needing that, but it is a 'basic skill' before more challenging work is attempted.

 

[Willie X]

The drill, probably not a good idea.

You sometimes have to rotate the reamer in partial turns. This would be impossible with a drill motor.

Make sure you get ALL your reamers for a Bergeon mount. The Bergeon mount is solid with a set screw against a flat. KWM mounts are quick release and always wobbly. Yes, KWM reamers can be bought with Bergeon mounts.

Willie X

 

[R. Croswell]

Gathering a list of items to buy, going through Timesavers catalog like I was 6 looking at the Sears Christmas catalog. Two items I ran across that peak my interest and curious what others think.

These don't look too expensive and seem to solve or help with two of the big problem of bushing, locating center of the pivot and keeping the reamer perpendicular with the plate.

Here are the links to the Timesavers catalog, I am sure there are some limitation but for someone just starting seems like a good start.

Clamp-On Bushing Tool For Use With The KWM System

Align tool over a pivot hole and clamp it to your disassembled clock plate, insert the reamer holder and reamer and ream the bushing hole. Upright adapter is included. Reamers, bushings & clock plate

timesavers.com

KWM Clamp On Bushing Tool

Reams bushing holes perpendicular to a clock plate by placing the tool on the plate and holding the reamer in the tool and rotating the reamer with an electric screwdriver. Uses American/KWM reamers

timesavers.com

John, I doubt that you would be happy with either of these clamp-on systems. There will always be a post or rivet, or so something in the way, and you won't be able to use these for bushings near the edge of the plate. Personally, I like to support plate on a stump directly under the bushing. This also allows you to use a blunt driver in the reamer holder to press the bushing in straight with the same setup.

For not many more dollars you might consider this,

Universal Drill Press Bushing Tool

At least it will allow you to get to all the pivot holes on the plate, and with the KWM anvils (extra) you get proper support under the bushing. I don't like reaming under power because you have no "feel" and if there is any runout in your drill press, it will quickly ream oversize. With a belt driven drill press, take off the belt and turn the chuck by hand, otherwise use the slowest speed and get a foot switch so you can instantly stop as soon as you reach the full size of the reamer. The drill press is a good tool for pressing the bushing in place. Quite a few people have successfully done bushing work with a drill press.

RC

 

[Dick Feldman]

Hi Dick great idea how do I go about doing that?

At the very top of this page, there is a gray horizontal strip. In that strip there are the words "Local Chapters."
Click that link: Local Chapters - National Association of Watch & Clock Collectors, Inc.
And add your state/location. Click search
A map of your state will show with locations of chapters of the NAWCC on that map
Below, click on one of the chapters near you for email to a contact person/web page, etc.
Those contacts listed will be able to suggest a person to help you out.
Best Regards,
Dick

 

[Tim Orr]

Good afternoon, all!

I can't verify this from experience, but the late, great, David Goodman advocated taping two small rectangular hand mirrors together along one edge, then standing them on the plate so that the reamer can be viewed while turning it. David claimed that you could tell immediately if the tool was perpendicular to the plate. No special angle between the mirrors needed.

Not sure where he talked about it. My copy of This Old Clock is buried somewhere. Anybody tried it?

Best regards!

Tim Orr

 

[shutterbug]

It makes sense to me. One mirror shows north and south while the other shows ease and west (so to speak). You would be able to see if you were off vertical either direction. Sounds useful for bushing by hand.

 

[John Tosto]

Thank you everyone for taking the time to replay to my questions, after reading all of your posts, checking a few clock supply stores and doing a little napkin math. I searched ebay and bought a used Bergeon 6200 bushing machine tool.

When I looked at what I would be spending to purchase some hand tool and adaptors that might work as good bushing tool and seeing that for a few hundred dollars more I could get the tool on ebay. It just seemed like if I was going to spend the money on tools that would eventually sit on the bench when I finally bought the bushing tool.

It is just the tool itself and I figured I could off start slow by buying only the accessories (reamers, stumps, ect) that I would need right now to work on the clocks I have. Then build out what I have as I go along.

I am going to stick with the KWM reamers as a few months ago also on ebay I bought a KWM gauge, I also have a caliper and may be I could have done with out it but that train has left the station.

I do like that the Bergeon tool allows you to use both types. I have one clock of my own I will try on 1st, I would say that one of the pivots is borderline plus bought the clock for 15 dollars so not worried if all goes bad that is how you learn. If all goes I have a friends clock that I have been looking at that needs at least two bushings.

No worries I am not just jumping into the deep end I will be reading as much as I can and hunting for good youtube videos before attempting it. Again Scotty Clock world seem to be good and if anyone has any pointers, suggestions, suggested reading material, video link just anything that would be helpful again much appreciated.

Also I will take any suggestions as to what reamers, pushers, drilled stakes, centering tool, chamfering cutter, ect is appreciated.

John

 

[John Tosto]

I'm pleased to hear that the help you have been given has been listened to.
If you have purchased a complete bushing tool then all the parts you need should be with it.
However, Simply replacing bushes isn't the be all end end all of it all.
In most instances, there will need to be some work done on the pivots. Likely before you go replacing bushes.

Hi
Thanks for your post. Sorry my bad I thought I made it clear when I said I purchased the tool only it was understood I did not purchase a complete bushing tool. I will be purchasing the needed reamers, stumps, ect as I go. I figured buying a set isn't necessary and can be bought in pieces. With that said I was hoping for advice as to.... if you are going to install a bushing you are going to need this ( reamer, stump, pusher, ect) or these are the most common I use and suggest getting these first. Or a certain centering tool that worked best.

Yes, I understand that inspecting the pivots for grooves and trueness is an important step in the cleaning, inspecting and maintenance of a clock(polishing them if needed). No worries I don't believe that bushing replacement is the end of it all but unless I misunderstood was was explained to me here and what I have read proper pivot holes are critical to overall clock health, performance and reliability.

 

[Willie X]

You will need 3 reamers per system, at the start.

Like many things, you may be able to buy a set for what you can buy 3 ... Willie X

 

[Jim DuBois]

Not certain I will agree with everything previously said in this thread. For example, I have a high-quality CNC mill based on a Chinese machine. It holds .0005" consistently on the spindle. And I have bushed many movements with a fairly sloppy Chinese-made drill press. Much of the accuracy in bushing work is dependent on the reamers/cutters themselves, a sloppy cutter in a precise spindle will not be very accurate. Also, a so-called "preacher" is not a tool I have ever needed. I doubt its usefulness for most of us. If a bushing/pivot hole is filled solid then I would use a depthing tool, not a preacher. And you have to use the preacher and mark/punch the plates before the bushing is messed up, unless you plan on messing up every bushing you may do. The preacher is an unnecessary kluge.

 

[R. Croswell]

Not certain I will agree with everything previously said in this thread. For example, I have a high-quality CNC mill based on a Chinese machine. It holds .0005" consistently on the spindle. And I have bushed many movements with a fairly sloppy Chinese-made drill press. Much of the accuracy in bushing work is dependent on the reamers/cutters themselves, a sloppy cutter in a precise spindle will not be very accurate. Also, a so-called "preacher" is not a tool I have ever needed. I doubt its usefulness for most of us. If a bushing/pivot hole is filled solid then I would use a depthing tool, not a preacher. And you have to use the preacher and mark/punch the plates before the bushing is messed up, unless you plan on messing up every bushing you may do. The preacher is an unnecessary kluge.

Regarding the so-called "preacher", I completely agree. I also believe that using name brand reamers and bushings is the better choice.

RC

 

[John Tosto]

You will need 3 reamers per system, at the start.

Like many things, you may be able to buy a set for what you can buy 3 ... Willie X

Hi Willie,

Just to clarify when you say 3, I am assuming that if the bushing I am replacing requires a III size KWM reamer that I should also purchase sizes I, II. In a video I watched they said in their opinion that when you start reaming a hole it best to start with on 2 sizes smaller the recommended and work your way up. Is that what you were saying?

 

[Willie X]

No,
If you want to use the KWM bushing system you will need to purchase 3 reamers at the start, #2, #3 & #4, with Bergeon shanks. These will do nearly all of your work. If you only want to buy one reamer make that a #3. I doubt if you will ever need the #1.
For the Bergeon system you will actually need 4 reamers to start, 2.5mm, 3mm, 3.5mm and 4.5mm. The 3mm and the 3.5mm are the most used for me, but it probably won't be long before you will need to add the 2.5 and 4.5 and others. There are 10 reamers in my Bergeon set.
Sometimes you will need to start the job with a smaller reamer but (for me) this is not necessary most of the time. Willie X

 

[R. Croswell]

........ In a video I watched they said in their opinion that when you start reaming a hole it best to start with on 2 sizes smaller the recommended and work your way up.

Yes, that is my preferred way to. I begin with the smallest reamer that will enter the hole and cut. That gives me a better "feel" when nibbling an out of round hole back on center, and I find that stepping up through each size reamer is less likely to drift off center than starting with the final reamer. Yes, it takes time to do the extra tool changes, but that's how I do it. (I almost always use the Bergeon set)

RC

[/QUOTE]

 

[John Tosto]

Trying to order what I need to replace a bushing here is the list of the items I am ordering, did I miss anything?

• 6 piece cutting broach (.7mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm & 3mm) (already have pin vice)
• Bushings

KWM reamer for Bergeon

• I : 1.2mm
• II : 1.8mm
• III : 2.7mm

MISC

• Center pin point
• Small pusher
• Medium pusher
• Stake drilled 10 mm (5mm hole)

 

[R. Croswell]

Trying to order what I need to replace a bushing here is the list of the items I am ordering, did I miss anything?

• 6 piece cutting broach (.7mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 2.5mm & 3mm) (already have pin vice)
• Bushings

KWM reamer for Bergeon

• I : 1.2mm
• II : 1.8mm
• III : 2.7mm

MISC

• Center pin point
• Small pusher
• Medium pusher
• Stake drilled 10 mm (5mm hole)

Spend a bit more and get German or Swiss broaches. The cheap ones are crap. Also get broaches with the smallest taper (the largest number of broaches in a set for a given range). Also get a matching set of smoothing broaches, you want the taper of the smoothing and cutting broaches to be the same if you expect the best results.

RC

 

[Willie X]

You will use the #2 reamer occasionally on small clocks, like modern cuckoos and alarm clocks. #2 size bushings are small and go down to .3mm!

As already stated, you will probably never use the #1 reamer at all. However, you WILL use a #4 reamer with some regularity.

If you feel compelled to follow the YouTube guy, by all means do so and report back on how that works out for you. Willie X

 

[Richard.W]

I would check in with your local NAWCC Chapter by following the link in the gray bar at the very top of this web page. Many Chapters offer FREE training classes where you can ask questions, learn by doing, and be guided by those with lots of experience.

 

[JayKosta]

What bushing BRAND are you planning to use? I see a lot about KWM tools, but no specific mention of the maker of the bushings themself.

 

[John Tosto]

You will use the #2 reamer occasionally on small clocks, like modern cuckoos and alarm clocks. #2 size bushings are small and go down to .3mm!

As already stated, you will probably never use the #1 reamer at all. However, you WILL use a #4 reamer with some regularity.

If you feel compelled to follow the YouTube guy, by all means do so and report back on how that works out for you. Willie X

Hi Willie,

I believe he is a professional repairer, "Scotties Clock World", started off watching his series " Clock Repair For Total Beginners" and then others. Curious if anyone else has seen his videos and what they thought. I would like to know if they are a good resource.

 

[John Tosto]

I would check in with your local NAWCC Chapter by following the link in the gray bar at the very top of this web page. Many Chapters offer FREE training classes where you can ask questions, learn by doing, and be guided by those with lots of experience.

Hi Jay,

Thanks that is a great tip and I am going to see what chapters are in my area and what training classes are available.

John

 

[Kevin W.]

Hi John. Many have a Joe Collins main spring winder and they like them. Might be worth while for you to check them out.