http://www.merritts.com/store3/main/product.asp?ProductID=81262&search=1320
I can vaugly understand this post. As I am not exactly sure what the problem is.
Is the problem reaming the hole out for the new bushing to set in, or is it peening in the new bushing in place?
Another thing I was under impression was that staking tools where old method of expanding surrounding brass material to pinch close material to be re-broached. My guess now is that you use staking tools to peen bushings in place as well. I do not own a staking tool set.
As per another thread, I was informed that reaming in wrong direction (from outside in) causes new bushings to eventually pop out as they have an overall taper on outside surface of reamer which creates bushing hole that favors pressure in one direction.
So pressure on the bushing from arbor/pivot causes bushing to tighten when pushed out, but would pop out if pushed in (opposite when reamed wrong direction).
Still, after examining the tool (stepped staking support) and envisioning as stated it does not seem to make more sense than just reaching in with staking tool with plate upside down and supported on flat metal surface to peen bushing into place.
Also don't see the reasons for holes in the steps. Is it to guide the reamer?
Me, I like to hand ream, and perhaps this is a lathe setup difference for reaming? Unless maybe the hand reamer can not reach into the bridge to ream the hole...?
Me, in this case I would simply ream from outside and peen the bushing in place. I have an awl that I customized for peening bushings in place. The tip of the awl is tiny and round like a bb.
After peening I have found that it provides a tight strong friction fit that does not pop out.
After peening the bushing in place then I broach with cutting broach. Then smoothing broach. I think the smoothing broach is important.
RJ