Bush off center

[Jeff]

If you have a bush that is off center, What is the best way to correct it?,and what is the better way to bush,with a hand bush or a bushing machine?

Jeff

 

[al_taka]

Don't know if this is the best way but is how I would do it.

I would put in a blank bushing to fit in the same hole you already made, but first use a compass and scribe where the hole is supposed to be, use will use these aiming marks later. After putting in the new blank bushing, find the hole center using your scribe marks. Drill the hole with a smaller bit, than broach out the hole until it fits your pivot.

If you have a Preacher(do a search on this message board for it) it can be used instead of a compass and a scribe.

 

[harold bain]

Jeff, before you change the bushing placement, be sure that it is wrong. I have seen American movements with steel plates where the brass bushings are obviously not centered, but they came that way from the factory. I think it is Gilbert that I am thinking of.
You may need a depthing tool to refind the center if they have been badly worked on.

 

[LaBounty]

Hey Jeff-

Sometimes a bushing needs to be off center and came that way out of the factory. Other times, a bearing hole is accidently drifted off center if care isn't taken to compensate for wear when reaming the new hole.

There are several methods to compensate for accidently drifting a hole...

-Create an eccentric bushing by drilling an off-center hole in a bushing blank. This can be easily done by inserting the blank into the lathe and shimming it on one side with a piece of wire. This will cause the bushing blank to wobble inside the headstock and thus create an off-center hole when drilled. The eccentric bushing can then be installed in the plate with the off-center hole rotated in the desired direction.

Or...

-Remove the bushing and install a larger diameter bushing, compensating for the drift while reaming the larger hole. Rotating the reamer a few degrees rather than 360 will cause the reamer to cut in only one direction and allow you to drift the hole in the desired direction. If that doesn't get you far enough in the right direction you can bush the larger bushing and drift that hole as well.

Those are my two favorites but it is also possible to plug the plate and drill a new bearing hole wherever it is needed.

And I prefer to bush by hand rather than using a bushing machine. I have more control when hand reaming since I can easily compensate for wear as I ream and it is much faster than having to clamp it into a machine. Also, the tools for hand reaming are quite a bit less expensive than a complete bushing tool. It does take a bit of practice to ream by hand and not get the hole too sloppy but it doesn't take too long to become proficient.

Hope that helps!

 

[Jeff]

The reason I asked is I got this movement and on the striking side it is jumping the teeth on the fan. I check it and someone rebushed it and it seems to be off center. So I have to move it back to center so it will not jump out. The arbor is straight and so is the pinion. So it will be trial and errow,hoping not to many errows. Thanks for all the help.


Jeff

 

[harold bain]

Well, Jeff, that would be the easiest one to move, since it doesn't drive another gear.

 

[shutterbug]

You also need to look to see if both sides were wrong, or just one. My guess is that it's the one with the lantern gear near it, but could be a factory error on both ends.

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Jeff
Great question to a more common problem than one would think, but seldom discussed on this board.

Personally I avoid this problem by bushing with a small Milling Machine. For those who are frugal, I think you would find a small mill less expensive and more efficient than the many tools it replaces including bushing machines.

In this case it is highly efficient in correcting manufacturing errors as mentioned by LaBounty or poor quality bushing work.

To correct such a problem I first remove the old bushing. Next the arbor/pinion/wheel are installed along with the previous or next wheel between the plates. The movement is then installed in a movement holder and mounted in the Mill as shown in the attached Photo. From this point a piece of bushing wire is installed in the spindle and dropped over the pivot of the incorrect bushing. This allows the pivot to be very precisely located within the bushing hole with the slides until correct depthing is achieved. When spinning the two wheels for correct depthing, you will be very surprised at how much difference a slight movement of the pivot will make on friction free operation.

Once depthing has been achieved the bushing wire is removed and the next larger size bushing reamer is installed in the Mill spindle. Then the lower plate is removed for reaming/boring a new bushing hole. The movement holder is designed to hold the top plate only and allow removal of the lower pate (See Attached Photo) Because the mill and movement holder are very rigid the reamer will bore the new bushing hole in the correct depthed locatation rather than ream the hole.

Personally I found this to be a fast, efficient and highly effective repair with a quality appearance.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[shutterbug]

Jeff
Great question to a more common problem than one would think, but seldom discussed on this board.

Personally I avoid this problem by bushing with a small Milling Machine. For those who are frugal, I think you would find a small mill less expensive and more efficient than the many tools it replaces including bushing machines.

In this case it is highly efficient in correcting manufacturing errors as mentioned by LaBounty or poor quality bushing work.

To correct such a problem I first remove the old bushing. Next the arbor/pinion/wheel are installed along with the previous or next wheel between the plates. The movement is then installed in a movement holder and mounted in the Mill as shown in the attached Photo. From this point a piece of bushing wire is installed in the spindle and dropped over the pivot of the incorrect bushing. This allows the pivot to be very precisely located within the bushing hole with the slides until correct depthing is achieved. When spinning the two wheels for correct depthing, you will be very surprised at how much difference a slight movement of the pivot will make on friction free operation.

Once depthing has been achieved the bushing wire is removed and the next larger size bushing reamer is installed in the Mill spindle. Then the lower plate is removed for reaming/boring a new bushing hole. The movement holder is designed to hold the top plate only and allow removal of the lower pate (See Attached Photo) Because the mill and movement holder are very rigid the reamer will bore the new bushing hole in the correct depthed locatation rather than ream the hole.

Personally I found this to be a fast, efficient and highly effective repair with a quality appearance.

Jerry Kieffer

Dang! I'd love that setup, Jerry!

 

[Jeff]

Jerry, That would take the guess work out. Sometimes having the right tool, even if it is more money, is better than working many hours of trial and errow to have the same results or even giving up. Thanks,and thanks for the forum.


Jeff

 

[bkerr]

Jerry, is that a small drill mill? Would you go into some detail. (size, cap, hp, brand ect.) I have two KWM's and one Bergeon but have thought about a bench top mill drill for the shop for some time.

Thanks

 

[al_taka]

Jerry, that is a great solution. No wonder they give you the big money!

I have an extra milling machine which would be perfect for this setup.
Thanks Again

 

[R&A]

This type of set-up will work too, on a lathe.

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Jerry, is that a small drill mill? Would you go into some detail. (size, cap, hp, brand ect.) I have two KWM's and one Bergeon but have thought about a bench top mill drill for the shop for some time.

Thanks

When selecting a Mill, a small mill should be used for small work and a large mill for large work. No one size will do everything unless you limit yourself to your equipments envelope. For a Small mill I would suggest that it have a minimum of four things for Horological work.

* A variable speed DC motor with very high torque at slow speeds.

* A spindle that will except WW/8MM collets and several other holding options

* Accurate slides with CLEARLY marked zeroing handwheels.

* A complete line of available accessories compatible and interchangable with your lathe

The Mill shown in the photo was a standard Sherline model 5400. It is suitable for constructing movements from bar stock with plates of about 6"x 9" and smaller. Anything larger is best done on a Mill many times larger.

Another slightly larger option is the Taig Mill. It can be ordered with a WW spindle but not the very important variable speed motor. Many owners of these machines have installed variable speed tread mill motors as well as sherline motor systems.

Personally I have found these two machines to be the least expensive small machines capable of doing the quality of work I wish to do.

Again personally all of my machine work is done on four machines. A small lathe and large lathe (13x40) as well as a small mill and large mill (Floor type). They were selected to support each other for the smallest to the largest work to be done. I started with small machines and used them to pay for the larger machines.



Al_Taka
I have been seaching for the "They people" who pay the big dollars all of my life. If you can find them I will pay a Hefty reward on any money collected.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[R. Croswell]

Well here’s a little tip for those of us who are not fortunate enough to have a milling setup. When “drifting” the hole by hand using partial revolutions of a reamer, I find the hardest part to be knowing how far I have gone and how much farther I need to go. I use a fine-line Sharpie felt-tip pen to mark a fine line around the edge of the hole in the direction that I want to go. I try to make the line about as wide as the distance I need to drift the hole. When I’ve cut away the mark, I know to stop. Don’t worry if the mark gets too wide, just use a sewing needle to make a very fine line where the drift is to end. A few drops of acetone will remove the ink. (Caution, acetone will also remove lacquer if the plate is lacquered). Layout blue will also work. Not quite as accurate as the mill, but better than just eyeballing it.

Bob C.

 

[al_taka]

Jerry,
People with the big bucks are never where we look, they are always behind us running the show. To become one of them, run the show.

 

[Highpower]

.......To correct such a problem I first remove the old bushing. Next the arbor/pinion/wheel are installed along with the previous or next wheel between the plates. The movement is then installed in a movement holder and mounted in the Mill as shown in the attached Photo. From this point a piece of bushing wire is installed in the spindle and dropped over the pivot of the incorrect bushing. This allows the pivot to be very precisely located within the bushing hole with the slides until correct depthing is achieved. When spinning the two wheels for correct depthing, you will be very surprised at how much difference a slight movement of the pivot will make on friction free operation.
Jerry Kieffer

Wow, what a great idea! Although I don't have a "small" mill, I do have a micro (finger) feed quill attachment for my 8x36 mill. It is also equipped with a 3-axis DRO that has .0002" resolution scales. I don't foresee any problems using my machine with your procedure - do you?

I really like your work holding blocks too. Outstanding set-up you came up with there. You need to get a patent......

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Wow, what a great idea! Although I don't have a "small" mill, I do have a micro (finger) feed quill attachment for my 8x36 mill. It is also equipped with a 3-axis DRO that has .0002" resolution scales. I don't foresee any problems using my machine with your procedure - do you?

Highpower
Your large mill should work fine for this specific procedure on something the size of a typical American 8 day movement or larger.
However larger work holding options in larger equipment takes much longer to setup and caution must be observed not to damage small tooling.

Many other typical Horological milling procedures are better done on a smaller mill that is more sensitive to the small tooling required to do a quality job. While most anything can be done on larger equipment it becomes a matter of practicality and efficiency. Under industrial conditions it will be desirable to use heavy equipment setups to do one and specific part day in and day out. But not for general machining under Hobby or small shop conditions. My comments are based on my personal experiece with my larger machines. My largest mill is a Emco Maier F3 of very high quality and in new condition. (Attached Photo) While a great machine it simply is not practical to do a wide range of small work that comes up on a daily basis. But for large work it is of course the only way to go.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[Highpower]

Jerry,
Thank you for your comments. I understand the benefits of using the smaller machine on a regular basis. You are quite right of course.

FYI: I am a total novice at clock repair, and (against all sane advice given here) I am attempting to revive an old worthless cuckoo anyway.... just for the experience. This will most likely be a one time effort for me, but when I saw your method above for locating pivot positions, it gave me hope that maybe I can do this without screwing up the bushing positions. :|

Again, thanks for sharing your set up.

 

[Jeff]

Jerry, What do think about a milling machine from harbor freight? I've been looking to buy a sherline,but came across one from harbor freight.


Jeff

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Highpower
Also thank you for the kind comments. For a one time or occasional small job, your large Mill will work just fine if you take it easy.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Jeff
I have owned several of the Chinese Mini Lathes/Mills since 1988 (Including HF) when they were first imported by Enco. (Photo of the last purchased/current version attached)
We each have our own standards and purpose/use when it comes to equipment. I will limit my comments to my personal experience with this equipment. All machines were purchased new. All were very course and crude with only one or two were in full operating condition out of the box.
This condition cannot be explained but must be compared side by side to tools of quality to be understood. Almost all ways were not parallel from the factory. This makes accurate Gibb adjustment over the full range of travel very difficult to impossible. On three examples I remachined/ground to correct this condition. On each example the castings warped in different directions upon completion of the machining/grinding. In the end each machine required the development of skills to minipulate it to do what it was intended to do before anything of value could be accomplished. (Can give examples) Available Chinese tooling and accessories were found to be to large and crude for typical horological work. (In my opinion of course) Personally I own these machines for a specific non critical appliction and they work fine for this since I understand their limitations. None that I have owned have ever been suitable for any kind of consistent quality machining.
A couple of things to consider when evaluating equipment. First the quality/capability of your tools will determine the skill levels you develope.
With todays Internet you can easily reseach what has been accomplished with a particular piece of equipment. This will indicate its capabilities.

To be fair to others who may have had a different experience, I will be more than happy to publicly demonstrate my experience with these or any other machine at the many shows I attend each year. I personally find demonstrations of all points of view to be highly productive and educational for all. Not to mention the fun to be had.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[ticktock]

Jeff
Great question to a more common problem than one would think, but seldom discussed on this board.

Personally I avoid this problem by bushing with a small Milling Machine. For those who are frugal, I think you would find a small mill less expensive and more efficient than the many tools it replaces including bushing machines.

What kind of milling machine is this Jerry. Looks very nice. Does the "plate" holders go with it or did you make those?

Thanks

tick

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Jeff


What kind of milling machine is this Jerry. Looks very nice. Does the "plate" holders go with it or did you make those?

Thanks

tick

Tick
As mentioned earlier in this thread the Mill shown with the movement holder is a Sherline standard model 5400. The 2.000"x 1.000"x 2.500" Movement Holder aluminum blocks can be easily be machined on this Mill.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[Jeff]

Jerry, If you can hand bush and do ok, Why wouldn't a china made milling machine do a good job?, If that was all you are doing, just to rebush and some minor jobs. Surely they couldn't be that bad.

Is anyone using one?


Jeff

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Jerry, If you can hand bush and do ok, Why wouldn't a china made milling machine do a good job?, If that was all you are doing, just to rebush and some minor jobs. Surely they couldn't be that bad.

Is anyone using one?


Jeff

Jeff
I also felt "They couldn`t be that bad" when I purchased my first Chinese Mini Lathe and Mill in 1988. My comments were simply personal experiences with this equipment over the years from that speculation. A Milling machine small or large will of course be more expensive than typical handtools. A quality Mill will have many many capabilities and benefits that easily off sets the additional cost in increased monetary value of your work. However the most important will be Skill Development to do whatever you wish. Machines with lesser capabilities and quality are a very poor value for the dollar in my opinion unless they are for a specific use within their capability. (And of course you understand what you are purchasing) If a Mill is not practical for a simple thing like bushing, I personally see little value in purchasing such equipment for Horological work.
My suggestion would to try at least one of each machine considered before purchase so you can determine if it will serve your needs. There are enough machines around that you should be able to find someone with one of each in your area.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[Highpower]

One tip: Don't forget the cost of tooling if you are considering one of these machines......

 

[R&A]

Jeff
I have owned several of the Chinese Mini Lathes/Mills since 1988 (Including HF) when they were first imported by Enco. (Photo of the last purchased/current version attached)
We each have our own standards and purpose/use when it comes to equipment. I will limit my comments to my personal experience with this equipment. All machines were purchased new. All were very course and crude with only one or two were in full operating condition out of the box.
This condition cannot be explained but must be compared side by side to tools of quality to be understood. Almost all ways were not parallel from the factory. This makes accurate Gibb adjustment over the full range of travel very difficult to impossible. On three examples I remachined/ground to correct this condition. On each example the castings warped in different directions upon completion of the machining/grinding. In the end each machine required the development of skills to minipulate it to do what it was intended to do before anything of value could be accomplished. (Can give examples) Available Chinese tooling and accessories were found to be to large and crude for typical horological work. (In my opinion of course) Personally I own these machines for a specific non critical appliction and they work fine for this since I understand their limitations. None that I have owned have ever been suitable for any kind of consistent quality machining.
A couple of things to consider when evaluating equipment. First the quality/capability of your tools will determine the skill levels you develope.
With todays Internet you can easily reseach what has been accomplished with a particular piece of equipment. This will indicate its capabilities.

To be fair to others who may have had a different experience, I will be more than happy to publicly demonstrate my experience with these or any other machine at the many shows I attend each year. I personally find demonstrations of all points of view to be highly productive and educational for all. Not to mention the fun to be had.

Jerry Kieffer

I own 2 of these so called bad machines. And as a machinist I am capable of doing all my clock work that I find that needs to be done on them. Lathe and mill machine combos. One was sold at Harbor Freight, but I picked it up at the swap meet for 200.00 and it work fine for bushing barrels and making bushings. If I had an indexing plate I think it would work fine for cutting gears. The other is a little bigger and I use it to bore plates and mill. And I am saying this from experience and first hand knowledge.

H/C

 

[R&A]

Jerry, If you can hand bush and do ok, Why wouldn't a china made milling machine do a good job?, If that was all you are doing, just to rebush and some minor jobs. Surely they couldn't be that bad.

Is anyone using one?
Jeff

I use 2 of these machines. And they work fine for me. I was a machinist for 17 years too. And that helps if you haven't been around these machines. The picture I posted. I am using one of these machines that they sell at Harbor Freight to bore the hole in an movement of an American plate. This is for the hour pipe.

H/C

 

[Walesey]

Jerry,
I feel just a little under qualified to be chiming in here, and as I am a complete novice, I hope you will not be offended, but I will never learn unless I ask questions. Does your second photo show you reaming from the outside of the plate? I had been told that I should ream from the inside of the plate so that the taper on the hole would prevent the bush from pushing all the way through. Just asking. Apologies if this question is "out of line".

regards
Walesey

 

[shutterbug]

Wow, this is an old thread But when reaming, the hole is not tapered like it is when broaching.

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Jerry,
I feel just a little under qualified to be chiming in here, and as I am a complete novice, I hope you will not be offended, but I will never learn unless I ask questions. Does your second photo show you reaming from the outside of the plate? I had been told that I should ream from the inside of the plate so that the taper on the hole would prevent the bush from pushing all the way through. Just asking. Apologies if this question is "out of line".

regards
Walesey

Walesey

This really is an old thread.

To ask a valid and reasonable question such as this, should not offend anyone in any way shape or form. It is what the board is all about, but I can understand the hesitation based on what happens sometimes.

Unfortunately, some often suggested traditional Horological repair methods will "Clash" with sound proven metal working practices used by Horological manufactures and the rest of the world.

In this case it can be demonstrated that when you insert a non tapered bushing in a tapered hole produced by a typical cutting broach, it offers the least amount of resistance of removal through the large hole side of any method. It is generally stated, that if you broach from the inside, if the bushing comes loose it will not fall out but just stop the clock and not allow the clock to damage itself under spring tension.

When using commercial bushing reamers they are specifically designed to cut/ream holes with straight walls for bushings with straight walls. They are sized in a manner that will provide the type of friction fit the manufacturer deems is sufficient for a bushing. Under proper friction fit, it can be demonstrated that straight holes with straight bushings will create the greatest amount of resistance of any method based on resistance only.

In a bushing machine, the reamer is generally a loose fit in the spindle allowing the reamer to ream a hole to its designed size.

In the milling machine the reamer in this case is rigidly held with a highly accurate WW collet. This in turn allows the reamer to ream the designed friction fit diameter. If the reamer were held rigidly by a method that has runout, it would then become a boring bar, and bore a hole larger than designed providing less friction fit. An example of this would be a common drill chuck in whatever it is mounted.

If you must use a tapered broach and non tapered bushings, I would suggest "Peening" the bushing in place after installation.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[Kevin W.]

That is a good tip Bob. I wish i had a mill, who knows maybe one day.

 

[MARK A. BUTTERWORTH]

Jerry et al,
it seems to me that you made an elegant explanation for the fact it makes perfect sense to use the commercial reamers made to go with the particular bushing system whether it is KWM or Bergeon.

 

[Walesey]

Ah! It is true that we learn a new thing every day!.

Thanks, Jerry for your explanation. It makes sense.

I have used a Bergeon bushing machine with Bergeon reamers and Bergeon bushes (although I do not own the machine myself) I had assumed that the reamers and bushes were tapered to match each other, but I do not really know why I made that assumption. ("Assume makes an ASS out of U and ME") If the reamer had been tapered, it would obviously make a difference to which side you reamed from, but not so with a straight reamer.

Again, thank you for your very good explanation

Regards
Walesey

 

[harold bain]

However, test the fit by trying to knock a bushing out. If you try to knock it back out the way you installed it (if you installed it from the inside, knock it out from the outside) and note how easily it comes out. Then try the same test from the opposite side. You will notice it's a lot harder to knock it out from the inside. If neither the cutters nor the bushings are tapered, the metal of the plate must be moving with the bushing installation to tighten the fit.
When I first started using the Bergeon machine, I didn't know better and bushed from the outside of the plate. I recall having a spring break on an American movement, and it knocked a couple of my bushings out. It might have saved further damage, but it shouldn't have come out at all. My assumption was that it wasn't tight enough, and testing as I suggest convinced me that a better, tighter fit is made bushing from the inside of the plate.

 

[Jay Fortner]

Walesey

This really is an old thread.

An example of this would be a common drill chuck in whatever it is mounted.

Easy there Jerry. I have a homemade mini mill that utilizes a high quality 1/4" drill chuck that I've lapped the jaws. It is now accurate to .0005 TIR. It's an older Supreme and the .003" runout wasn't that bad to begin with but after years of use the jaws had worn to a slight taper making repeatability impossible,lapping the jaws put it right back to new condition.(or maybe better)
A good Albrecht chuck comes from the factory advertised at .0015 and they're usually dead nuts or so I've read on the practical machinist forum. So don't be so quick to condemn them for inaccuracy. If you want accuracy,you won't get it from China these days. Just remember you get what you pay for. I don't use reamers in my setup,I use high quality drill bits and bore the hole .001" smaller than the OD of the bushing. They press in nice and tight.

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Easy there Jerry. I have a homemade mini mill that utilizes a high quality 1/4" drill chuck that I've lapped the jaws. It is now accurate to .0005 TIR. It's an older Supreme and the .003" runout wasn't that bad to begin with but after years of use the jaws had worn to a slight taper making repeatability impossible,lapping the jaws put it right back to new condition.(or maybe better)
A good Albrecht chuck comes from the factory advertised at .0015 and they're usually dead nuts or so I've read on the practical machinist forum. So don't be so quick to condemn them for inaccuracy. If you want accuracy,you won't get it from China these days. Just remember you get what you pay for. I don't use reamers in my setup,I use high quality drill bits and bore the hole .001" smaller than the OD of the bushing. They press in nice and tight.

Jay
I probably should have made my explanation more clear. The .003" runout before modification of your supreme chuck seems to be about what one will encounter in the typical common drill chuck. If the chuck in its original condition (.003" runout) was held rigid by whatever it is used in, then the reamer will bore a hole larger than intended for a proper friction fit.

I have several Albecht chucks that I would not hesitate to use for this application, however I do not consider them and other high quality chucks to be the common chucks one encounters on a regular basis as stated in the original comment.

How do you bore holes with a Drill unless your referring to something like a spotting drill?

Jerry Kieffer

 

[MARK A. BUTTERWORTH]

Easy there Jerry. I have a homemade mini mill that utilizes a high quality 1/4" drill chuck that I've lapped the jaws. It is now accurate to .0005 TIR. It's an older Supreme and the .003" runout wasn't that bad to begin with but after years of use the jaws had worn to a slight taper making repeatability impossible,lapping the jaws put it right back to new condition.(or maybe better)
A good Albrecht chuck comes from the factory advertised at .0015 and they're usually dead nuts or so I've read on the practical machinist forum. So don't be so quick to condemn them for inaccuracy. If you want accuracy,you won't get it from China these days. Just remember you get what you pay for. I don't use reamers in my setup,I use high quality drill bits and bore the hole .001" smaller than the OD of the bushing. They press in nice and tight.

You did not mention it, but for the benefit of others, I assume you adapted the bit to drill brass?

 

[Jay Fortner]

Jay
I probably should have made my explanation more clear. The .003" runout before modification of your supreme chuck seems to be about what one will encounter in the typical common drill chuck. If the chuck in its original condition (.003" runout) was held rigid by whatever it is used in, then the reamer will bore a hole larger than intended for a proper friction fit.

I have several Albecht chucks that I would not hesitate to use for this application, however I do not consider them and other high quality chucks to be the common chucks one encounters on a regular basis as stated in the original comment.

How do you bore holes with a Drill unless your referring to something like a spotting drill?

Jerry Kieffer

No,just a common jobber lenght twist drill. The trick is to start out with a very slow feed and high speed and let the drill cut instead of forcing it through,especially if the hole is oblong which it normally is hence the need for a bushing. Once the point of the drill is below the surface of the plate you can increase the feed and reduce the revs. I always drill in two steps. Initial hole is drilled at high speed and slow feed and the finished hole is drilled at low feed,low speed. My little mini mill uses a sewing machine motor and foot control so that makes it nice for speed changes and the drill column is from a discarded stereo microscope so feed can be controlled very nicely also using both hands on the knobs. I'll post some photos of my little contraption later this evening.

 

[Jay Fortner]

You did not mention it, but for the benefit of others, I assume you adapted the bit to drill brass?

Just standard jobber lenght drill bits. 118deg,chisel point,7deg relief angle. I use 135deg and various size ball mills to cut the oil sinks.
Never had the need for any "special" drill bits with a good solid machine,good sharp bits and years of practice drilling holes.
I may in the future buy a set of screw machine drills(I have a few) but for now I'm having good success with the jobber lenght Triumph Twist Drills.

 

[Jay Fortner]

Here you go. This is what you can build if you have enough junk laying around. I haven't done any milling with it,so far I've only used the table for positioning. Everything is true and plumb and gives me the accurate results I'm striving for.

A limerick just popped into my head that sums up this homemade stuff that I build,hopefully the mods will have enough sense of humor to not delete it;

 

[harold bain]

Sorry, Jay but your limerick doesn't pass our PG13 rating. It's not our sense of humor, it's the potential for young viewers to see it. It's gotta go.

 

[David S]

Here you go. This is what you can build if you have enough junk laying around. I haven't done any milling with it,so far I've only used the table for positioning. Everything is true and plumb and gives me the accurate results I'm striving for.

A limerick just popped into my head that sums up this homemade stuff that I build,hopefully the mods will have enough sense of humor to not delete it;

Jay I really like what you come up with. Now I would have used a Albrecht chuck...but only because I have a few kicking around that need a home. Can't seem to find that Limerick .... where did it go?? Ah crap.. I am younger than 13...got it.

 

[R&A]

Here you go. This is what you can build if you have enough junk laying around. I haven't done any milling with it,so far I've only used the table for positioning. Everything is true and plumb and gives me the accurate results I'm striving for.

A limerick just popped into my head that sums up this homemade stuff that I build,hopefully the mods will have enough sense of humor to not delete it;

Thats funny when I complained about breast being on a profile picture I was told it was art. And a young person was viewing it on my computer. Oh it's only what you find unsuitable. And comments that are not suitable. I am not happy with this structure.

H/C

 

[Jay Fortner]

Jay I really like what you come up with. Now I would have used a Albrecht chuck...but only because I have a few kicking around that need a home. Can't seem to find that Limerick .... where did it go?? Ah crap.. I am younger than 13...got it.

I would have used an Albrecht myself if I'd had one.
Yeah Harold jumped on that one pretty quick. I was younger than 13 when I learned it.
Nowadays if you need a lesson in sex education,ask a kid.

 

[David S]

Thats funny when I complained about breast being on a profile picture I was told it was art. And a young person was viewing it on my computer. Oh it's only what you find unsuitable. And comments that are not suitable. I am not happy with this structure.

H/C

Awe come on H/C. I am sure we all understand some of the rules and regulations, I am not saying that we all like them..but they are what they are. And for sure all of us as contributors, can rise above the stuff we don't like, and just have fun with our hobby / passion / occupation.. and share. There is so much bad stuff going on in the world today, that some of these minor rules or whatever are indeed very very insignificant. And please accept this as my opinion, and don't take it any other way.

 

[Jay Fortner]

Now I would have used a Albrecht chuck...but only because I have a few kicking around that need a home.

Hey David,I could help you with that dilemma,relieve you of your burden.

 

[R&A]

Awe come on H/C. I am sure we all understand some of the rules and regulations, I am not saying that we all like them..but they are what they are. And for sure all of us as contributors, can rise above the stuff we don't like, and just have fun with our hobby / passion / occupation.. and share. There is so much bad stuff going on in the world today, that some of these minor rules or whatever are indeed very very insignificant. And please accept this as my opinion, and don't take it any other way.

I deleted my post. What ever David. I'm not biting.

H/C

 

[hookster]

I couldn't agree more David. PS. It was a pleasure finally meeting you last Sunday.

Awe come on H/C. I am sure we all understand some of the rules and regulations, I am not saying that we all like them..but they are what they are. And for sure all of us as contributors, can rise above the stuff we don't like, and just have fun with our hobby / passion / occupation.. and share. There is so much bad stuff going on in the world today, that some of these minor rules or whatever are indeed very very insignificant. And please accept this as my opinion, and don't take it any other way.