Dial Pan The dial pan is made from .04" thick brass sheet. The diameter was rough cut oversize with a tin snips and then flattened by hand. Gloves are recommended due to the sharp edges. A 7/16" hole is drilled in the center of the pan where the hands will pass through. For now, this hole will be used to mount the pan on an arbor for turning in the lathe. The pan is too thin to turn by itself, so it was sandwiched between an aluminum plate and the small wood disk used to turn the bezel. Even though it was supported on both sides, the pan would flex slightly as the edge was machined. The diameter was then reduced until it fit inside the lip on the back of the bezel. The front plate of the movement was then used as a template to drill holes for winding arbor, second hand and dial feet. Six holes were drilled around the edge of the pan to fasten it to the bezel with 0-80 machine screws. I placed them close to the edge to allow drilling into the thickest part of the bezel. After all this work, I sure did not want to drill too deep and go through the bezel, so I measured carefully, used a depth stop on the drill press AND marked the drill bit just to make sure I did not go too deep. The holes in the bezel were then tapped with 0-80 threads. The dial pan feet need to support the pan 1/2" above the front plate to allow space for the motion works. It was actually quite nice to get back on the small Taig lathe to make these parts. The feet are attached to the pan with silver solder and to the front plate with taper pins. The taper pin holes are spaced to allow for a small washer between the taper pin and front plate to protect the front plate from scratches. I don't like seeing scratches on the plate where the pins have been inserted. The washers also raise the pins above the plate and makes them easier to insert and remove. To make sure the holes are all in the same location and centered on the pin, I made a gauge from drill rod that was center drilled and has a small cross-drilled guide hole. With the gauge held in a vise, the pin of the dial foot is inserted into the center hole of the gauge and held by hand while a drill bit is run through the guide hole. This worked really slick and made quick work of the drilling operation. The small pip that goes through the pan can actually be left a little bit long so they can be filed and sanded flush on the front of the pan. Since the dial will be glued directly to the pan, we don't want any high or low spots that will show through the paper. When the feet were soldered to the pan, the pan warped in the area around each foot. Most of the warpage disappeared when the pan cooled, but I still had to do a little hand straightening to get it flat again.