Brass attachment of long-case verge to crutch arbor

kinsler33

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Aug 17, 2014
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This here is the worn-out verge of an American (maybe) long-case clock. I successfully 'slippered' over the gouges in the pallets, but I'm not thrilled with the job, so I bought a verge-and-escape wheel kit from Timesavers.

I'm ready to drill the hole in the new verge casting, but I want to match it to the old verge, and the old one must be removed from its shaft. The brass cylinder 'boss' (what's the name of that part?) was soldered to the steel arbor, so that came off when heated, but I don't understand how the brass boss is staked or perhaps cast into the steel verge itself, and I want to remove that boss from the verge.

I can make a new boss (albeit not as elegant as the original) but I want to remove the original as neatly as possible. It rather looks like I'll have to file off the short side of the brass and punch it out of the steel verge, but I'd like to avoid as much carnage as possible. Is there any other way to do this? There's no other solder involved with the brass.

long-case verge.JPG
 

wow

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Mark, does the collet ( that’s what I call it) slip on the arbor or does the anchor slip on the collet or are they both stationary and the beat is set by bending the crutch? if that collet is really tight on the arbor, I think I would leave it, grind off the collar of the collet, and remove the anchor. Then you could slide the new anchor On that original using loctite or solder and clean it up and leave off the collar. Just a thought.
 

John MacArthur

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I would do the re-facing job over and get it right, and keep the original pallets and arbor. It is original, looks otherwise to be in good shape, and replacing it would detract from the value of the clock. Your pic is a little out of focus, so we can't really see what you don't like about the re-facing.
Johnny
 
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R. Croswell

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I would do the re-facing job over and get it right, and keep the original pallets and arbor. It is original, looks otherwise to be in good shape, and replacing it would detract from the value of the clock. Your pic is a little out of focus, so we can't really see what you don't like about the re-facing.
Johnny
I agree. The new replacement will likely require considerable "fitting" and polishing. The existing anchor should be restorable and would be expected to work as well or better than the replacement. How did you do the slippers and just what to you see as being wrong with the job? Perhaps this clock has other issues?

RC
 

shutterbug

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You probably already know, but the thickness of the slipper has to match the depth of the groove removed, or you'll introduce lock/drop issues that you don't need.
 

Willie X

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Feb 9, 2008
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Me too.

On most you can do just one side and just clean up the better of the two sides.

Willie X
 

kinsler33

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Just a thought...Would the brass boss/verge originally been a friction fit?
Doesn't look like it. The brass boss bulges out to a diameter that looks like it's larger than the hole through the steel verge. I'm desoldering everything and will replace said solder with some Loctite retaining compound, which releases with less heat than solder. I've got the new escape wheel--the old one has a broken tooth and I don't want to bother Mr LaBounty--so I'll have this thing together tonight.

Virus sequestration efficiency = (amount of work produced) / (amount of time spent talking about it). Mine is running about 0.001.
 

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