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SWCC Basic SWCC wiring question


New Member
Apr 17, 2018
Hello. I have what might be a relatively simple wiring question for a Self Winding Clock. I'm a complete neophyte, so please be patient with me.

This is the clock:

A few years ago, I brought it in to a local clock repair place. The guy there really didn't have any idea how to properly repair them, so sent the movement out to an expert. When it came back, properly restored, the local guy did some of the final wiring and put it back in the case. Seems, though, that his final wiring wasn't really so proper, either. Wires from the movement (added during the experts' repair) go up to the #6 battery. A third wire from the movement goes to what is basically a doorbell (apparently, sort of an improper hack job by the local guy), then to an alligator clip. This is used during battery replacement: replace the battery, touch the alligator clip to the negative, press the doorbell, wait for it to wind, then remove the alligator clip. This was the local guy's setup.
battery copy.JPG

In online discussions with someone who knows these clocks I was told that this was basically idiotic way to have done it.

So, a workaround was created. There was an unused Fahnestock double clip on the frame. That was removed, cleaned up, and I was sent a few pigtails, the idea being to create a three-way connection, permanently connecting the manual winding wire to the battery wire.

Here's where I'm getting confused, and I'm a little embarrassed to keep on asking the guy I was talking to. The way I'm interpreting things, the wires are removed from the battery and attached separate Fahnestock clip block (there are two dual clips, so the wires can go to separate clips). Then the pigtails go from the Fahnestock clip to the matching battery terminals. There's a brass screw on one of the clips, to attach the winding wire permanently.

1) I was told to connect the wire coming from the switch to the blue wire on the battery. But the blue wire goes to the positive on the battery, with a green going to the negative, and the rewinding wire is labeled to connect to the negative when used, so I would have thought I’d need to splice the winding (from the switch) wire to the green wire. Asking for clarification, I was told that the upper movement terminal wire should be connected to the winding wire. Which is the upper movement terminal wire? See the third picture which has how the blue and green wires are attached to the movement. The instructions seem to be contradictory: connect the switch wire to the blue wire, but it's the green wire that attached to the negative, which is where the winding wire goes when I've changed the battery.

2) small question: the pigtails I received have a pin connector on one end. I'm supposing that those go into the Fahnestock clips, but the matching wires that are currently attached to the battery attach to the corresponding clips, even though they are BARE wires and not pin connectors. Is there no issue connecting bare wires into a Fahnestock clip, or should I be attaching pin connectors to the wire ends?

Please tell me if there are details I'm missing here... it's been a long day and I may be missing details.

Scott image.png


Registered User
NAWCC Member
Oct 25, 2010
Mascoutah, IL
It's kind of unusual to see Fahnestock clips at in a permanent installation. You normally find them at a temporary connection like on a battery. They work ok with solid wire or tinned stranded wire, but not so much on plain stranded wire. They're not a good mechanical connection at all.



Registered User
NAWCC Member
Aug 21, 2001
To just get it to run you have the parts required assuming the battery output is 3 volts DC. It is a Ken's clock clinic battery assembly so most likely is
the 3 volt output.
The wiring is actually missing a lot of parts if you want to restore it to original.
I believe the bell button is there only for the initial winding as once it is wound the first time it will continue to wind itself with the just the two wires attached as it appears now.
I suspect the clip is there to make it easy to detach once it is wound. I can't see how the wiring to the bell button is attached so cannot tell you if it is correct. Basically you
need to ground the power to cause the motor to wind. Attaching the clip to one of the battery posts is my best guess of how to make it function not sure which one but you
can safely try each one to sort it out. By pressing the button after attaching the clip you complete the circuit and it should wind.
Once completely wound it will stop winding and there is no further need for the button as it will continue to self wind.
These Farhnestock clips were used for many years by most all the battery electric clock companies with great success. I have restored many clocks with these connections and never had any
problems. They made installation and removal of the components much easier.
I agree they were not designed to be used with stranded wiring but solid type connections specifically designed for this application and supplied by the original clock manufacture's. f1.jpg