Banjo Clocks side decoration castings

Schaferhunde

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Were they cast in brass or ferrous metal, the 1930's clocks?
 

JTD

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Were they cast in brass or ferrous metal, the 1930's clocks?
I have one set of side trims from a New Haven Banjo clock (bought in1926) which are ferrous metal brass plated. The other set, also from a Banjo clock, is made of some non-magnetic metal which has been brass plated.

JTD
 

Schaferhunde

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I have one set of side trims from a New Haven Banjo clock (bought in1926) which are ferrous metal brass plated. The other set, also from a Banjo clock, is made of some non-magnetic metal which has been brass plated.

JTD
Thankyou, I had a feeling solid brass would add too much cost, the reason I ask is that I bought a New Haven Banjo Clock recently, 3 train with winsome chimes. One of the side frets is broken and if brass I could solder it with brass solder wire, but if its ferrous possibly die cast it will be more difficult to re shape then join, I post some images. Might be better to buy a set that are undamaged, but then there's the issue of screw hole alignment, if the screw holes were not drilled using a jig then a new set wont line up with the original screw holes. The movement no doubt will be full of surprises not to mention butchered screws requiring restoration and heat blueing etc. Here we go again!:oops:

B2.jpg B1.png s-l1600 (1).jpg
 

JTD

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I have the same clock (but different pattern on the front glasses). It had one side trim broken just like yours, but it was an easy fix. The metal is soft, you can easily bend it back into place and then use a spot of transparent 2-part epoxy glue on the back surface and no one will know!

The other problem with these trims is that the brass plating is very thin and easily wears off. My clock was bought in 1926 (still have the original price tag and date) and by the time I got it, the trims were very dull. I tried polishing and they improved somewhat but not really much. It so happened I had a duplicate set of trims (equally worn) which I got brass plated. They look very fine but, to my eye, a bit too 'new'. Still haven't made up my mind which set to use.

JTD
 

Schaferhunde

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I have the same clock (but different pattern on the front glasses). It had one side trim broken just like yours, but it was an easy fix. The metal is soft, you can easily bend it back into place and then use a spot of transparent 2-part epoxy glue on the back surface and no one will know!

The other problem with these trims is that the brass plating is very thin and easily wears off. My clock was bought in 1926 (still have the original price tag and date) and by the time I got it, the trims were very dull. I tried polishing and they improved somewhat but not really much. It so happened I had a duplicate set of trims (equally worn) which I got brass plated. They look very fine but, to my eye, a bit too 'new'. Still haven't made up my mind which set to use.

JTD
Thankyou for your kind reply, they are probably a die cast metal, or something else as plating die cast is difficult.
You are correct in saying the new plating is too bright, it will oxidise in time, or you can use Gun Blue paste to oxidise it.
I would unscrew it and leave it sheltered outdoors to patinate more quickly. Can I see your clock and the movement, unfortunately the rebushing for the pivot ends is not done well and will require re doing, also all the screw head slots are damaged another time consuming restoration. I am considering buying another movement which appears the same to use for spares or fit, although the front mounting plate I think would be different and is not removeable from the front plate posts.
 

Schaferhunde

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Thankyou for your kind reply, they are probably a die cast metal, or something else as plating die cast is difficult.
You are correct in saying the new plating is too bright, it will oxidise in time, or you can use Gun Blue paste to oxidise it.
I would unscrew it and leave it sheltered outdoors to patinate more quickly. Can I see your clock and the movement, unfortunately the rebushing for the pivot ends is not done well and will require re doing, also all the screw head slots are damaged another time consuming restoration. I am considering buying another movement which appears the same to use for spares or fit, although the front mounting plate I think would be different and is not removeable from the front plate posts.
ARE THE SCREW HOLES ON YOUR OTHER SET OF SIDE FRETS IN THE SAME POSITION AS THE ONES FITTED?
 

Schaferhunde

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Thanks that's interesting, also I note that the Westminster chime movement from the Banjo is the same movement used in the Tambour table clock, its only the front plate that's different and easily separated by the post screws. The posts are in the same position on the movement front plate.
 

Schaferhunde

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Thanks that's interesting, also I note that the Westminster chime movement from the Banjo is the same movement used in the Tambour table clock, its only the front plate that's different and easily separated by the post screws. The posts are in the same position on the movement front plate.
What is the depth of the movement in your Whitney Banjo clock?
 

JTD

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What is the depth of the movement in your Whitney Banjo clock?
Depends where you measure it - with or without the hammer mechanism, with the front fixing plate etc.

It's in the case at the moment and I don't want to take it out, but it will be the same as the movement in yours.

JTD
 

Chris.K

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I had the same problem with my New Haven banjo. I decided to remove the remaining brass plating on the frets. When I get more time I will take the bezel apart and do the same and nickel plate everything then buff it so it looks old but cared for.
 

Schaferhunde

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If you open the back cover plate you can put a ruler in down the side and measure the dia of the back plate.
The attached pic although from a different clock should be identical, its the same as mine.

s-l1600 (7).jpg
 
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