Assembly Basics

[Ibehooved]

This is very basic, but clearly I am doing something wrong on reassembly after cleaning, polishing etc. When I attended a week of basic clock repair at NAWCC headquarters in Columbia PA several years ago, I was taught to reassemble the plates and gears with the movement in a horizontal plane, and my thumb underneath one plate, and my forefingers above on the other plate and to work the pivots into their holes beginning at the bottom near the mainspring barrel and working gradually to the top where the EW and anchor live. Of course the movements we were working on were not as delicate as 400 day movements. Ingrahams were typical. I have recently had a Schatz 49, and a "Germany" fail to run due to bent pivots on the anchor and EWs. Earlier today, I corrected the pivots on the German using some time on a friends metal lathe. I am sure I am being too heavy handed on reassembly and bending the pivots in the process. It seems like a better way to assemble, is to place the front plate, horizointally down, and place each wheel in the gear train in place, scooting them gently around until all the pivots and holes align with the back plate, without the alligator mouth leverage of the thumb and forefinger sqeezing the two plates together. Is there a better way to reassemble?

 

[etmb61]

... It seems like a better way to assemble, is to place the front plate, horizointally down, and place each wheel in the gear train in place, scooting them gently around until all the pivots and holes align with the back plate, without the alligator mouth leverage of the thumb and forefinger sqeezing the two plates together. Is there a better way to reassemble?

I start with the bottom pivots (barrel and first wheel) when adding the back plate, and loosely install the bottom pillar screws (or pins) to keep it from lifting as I move toward the top pivots. As you line up the pivots, the plate drops down until you have them all in.

Eric

 

[michael isaacs]

I've bent a pivot before. Now I put a rubber band around the whole assembly which frees me up to work them in in the same manner as you described. The rubber band is not very tight but will allow the pivots to drop in place to with no pressure from me

 

[Ken M]

Practice is the solution.

 

[Wayne A]

To add one thing I like to do is make sure to address the pivot ends to eliminate any sharp points or wire edges. I want a nice rounded pivot end so it drops in smoother and not catch or mark the plates.

Practice helps, do a few three train movements, that will develop some light touch and patience.

Wayne

 

[Ibehooved]

I've bent a pivot before. Now I put a rubber band around the whole assembly which frees me up to work them in in the same manner as you described. The rubber band is not very tight but will allow the pivots to drop in place to with no pressure from me

 

[Ibehooved]

My thought as often it is on this Forum: "Why didn't I think of that?"

 

[Schatznut]

To add one thing I like to do is make sure to address the pivot ends to eliminate any sharp points or wire edges. I want a nice rounded pivot end so it drops in smoother and not catch or mark the plates.

Practice helps, do a few three train movements, that will develop some light touch and patience.

Wayne

ESPECIALLY patience! I've done about 150 overhauls on 60 clocks. You do the math...

 

[Schatznut]

I start with the bottom pivots (barrel and first wheel) when adding the back plate, and loosely install the bottom pillar screws (or pins) to keep it from lifting as I move toward the top pivots. As you line up the pivots, the plate drops down until you have them all in.

Eric

I use the same approach. Works well for me.

 

[whatgoesaround]

I use the same approach as Eric in post #2 The only pressure comes from the weight of the plate.

 

[tracerjack]

Agee, weight of the plate is enough. I make sure the plate will drop cleanly before assembly.

 

[KurtinSA]

Sometimes I can't get the plate to easily drop in place on the pillars...that can add to the issues with working the plates together while getting the pivots into their holes. I've found that if I loosen slightly the screws on the front plate for the top pillars, this lets them "float" a bit, allowing for the back plate to more easily drop in place. Once I'm done with evaluating the movement, I just have to remember to secure those two screws!

Kurt

 

[marylander]

I always start from the barrel up. After first two pivots in place, I screw in the bottom screws or pin enough to prevent two plates from falling apart but the plates still free to move without putting any pressure to other pivots to be set in places. Comparing 400-day clock assemble to triple chime clock assemble, 400-day assemble is far more easier. Practices are the key to freedom.
Ming