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On this type of movement (and most mantel clock movements) I place the the parts as you show in the picture, parts on the plates with the posts. I like to get the ends of the springs over the posts. The main exception that comes to mind is the Terry style wooden movement which is much easier to assemble with the parts placed on the front plate. I'm sure there are other exceptions; it really depends on the movement, and to some extent personal preference.Working on this clock and ready to assemble. Cant see under the back plate to set up strike train. Since the posts are on back plate, would i be better off to assemble the front plate, then put back on and put the pivots into their holes.
I'm usually looking at arbors and pivots from the sides anyway. With solid plates you have no choice so that doesn't even come into play for me.I can only think of a half dozen or so times when assembling on the back plate was better. I almost always assemble front plate down.
For a clock that has the cannon pinion pressed on outside the plate, and when one opts to not remove the center arbor, or if there are any other parts left attached to one plate, this can sometimes determine how one will proceed - right side up or upside down.I'm usually looking at arbors and pivots from the sides anyway. With solid plates you have no choice so that doesn't even come into play for me.
I think it comes down to preference in most cases. In my opinion, the Sonora 89's can only be assembled upside down (Plate with posts lowered onto the assembled trains).
I just assembled an Ansonia Open Escapement movement from a Porcelain Clock as per Steven Conover's suggestion in his book "How to repair 20 American Clocks". I've reassembled this type of movement the other way as well and I prefer to do so with the posts up instead of down. Pick your poison. I think that some designs, even relatively simple ones, are more difficult to reassemble than others regardless of how you choose to go about it. Whatever works best in your hands....