Anyone have some extra oak plugs to rebush a Silas Hoadley?

Discussion in 'Wood Movement Clocks' started by Chris, Jan 21, 2012.

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  1. Chris

    Chris Registered User
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    Nov 4, 2001
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    I've read that many are making their own plugs to rebush movements, but I was hoping someone might have some they're willing to sell. I have a Silas Hoadley tall case movement with wood pivot holes (not bone). There are several areas that are too worn. Any help appreciated (please PM me). Thanks!
     
  2. R. Croswell

    R. Croswell Registered User

    Apr 4, 2006
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    Chris, you can go to any good hardware store and buy a plug cutter for just a few bucks and make all the plugs you want from an oak board. Carpenters use these all the time to make plugs to hide wood screws. Just put it in a drill press and that's it.

    Wood is the original and always a good choice. I have also used Delrin-AF to make bushings for my wood clocks and it seems to be working out well. You can make the bushings a lot smaller than the wood plugs. Of course you need a lathe to turn them.

    RC
     
  3. Peter A. Nunes

    Peter A. Nunes Moderator
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    Mar 3, 2006
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    Be careful buying plug cutters- spend the money and get top of the line ones, such as those made by Fuller. These generally have four "blades" that penetrate the wood and form the plug. These plug cutters are not self clearing- the trick is to drill into the wood a bit deeper than you need the plug to be, back the cutter out, then pop the plug out of the piece of wood (I use a small screwdriver for this). I always use old wooden clock plates to make mine. A 1/4" plug cutter will serve for almost all bushings, though I have 5/16" and 3/8" cutters too, which I occasionally use to cut bushings for winding arbors. I also have a corresponding Forstner bit for each size. I always glue the plugs in, then cut them flush with the back of the plate with a very sharp chisel.

    When drilling for the plugs, I drill from the back of the plate, and stop just shy of the "oil sink" depression on the front of the plate- this way none of the work will be visible from outside the movement.
     

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