Ansonia Crystal Regulator Movement removal

clockpoor

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Jul 31, 2007
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A family member brought me a very nice Ansonia Crystal Regulator (see photo) and has asked me to clean the movement. Examination has shown that it is indeed in need of cleaning as the movement will not run at present.

I am unfamiliar with working on a clock with an Open Escapement, never having disassembled on before, but my more immediate problem relates to the best method by which to remove the movement from the case.

I am hoping that one of you guys can give me some tips on the best way to accomplish the removal short of disassembling the case?

CP
 

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Willie X

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Feb 9, 2008
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First remove the gong base and gong. Then look for a small screw at the lower edge of the dial bezel. My memory isn't that keen but I think that this one is a bayonet mount, once the locking screw is removed a slight turn of the movement will release the inner dial plate and the whole deal can be brought out the back. The arangement might be a little different but I have never seen on where the case had to be bothered.

Good luck, Willie X
 

clockpoor

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Jul 31, 2007
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First remove the gong base and gong. Then look for a small screw at the lower edge of the dial bezel. My memory isn't that keen but I think that this one is a bayonet mount, once the locking screw is removed a slight turn of the movement will release the inner dial plate and the whole deal can be brought out the back. The arangement might be a little different but I have never seen on where the case had to be bothered.

Good luck, Willie X
Thanks, I have inspected the mount looking for the screw to which you refer and I have found what appears to be the screw you mention, but there are a total of three of these spaced equi-distant around the preimeter of the bezel, the other two impossible to get at with the glass in the case. However, each of these three screws has a capscrew that appears to perhaps hold the movement to the lugs. These capscrews appear to be fairly easy to remove, perhaps removing these will release the movement? I gather from your remarks that the dial must be two pieces that will separate allowing the center (escapement portion) to be removed separately from the outer ring?

I have attached a photo of these screws.

CP
 

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Len Lataille

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Aug 31, 2002
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You have the WRONG screws.

You only have to remove one screw. It is the flat head that threads all the way into the brass ring. It is the screw that is lowest in your photo.

Then as Willie says, the movement will twist out the back.
 
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clockpoor

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Jul 31, 2007
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CP

You have the WRONG screws.

You only have to remove one screw. It is the flat head that threads all the way into the brass ring. It is the screw that is lowest in your photo.

Then as Willie says, the movement will twist out the back.
Well, either I am on the wrong page or I have the wrong screw? I removed the "lowest" screw as I interpreted your instructions (see photo for depiction of screw) and it is only about 1/4" long and did nothing to release the movement. As I indicated earlier, this is just one of three such screws in the ring.

Cp
 

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Grant Perry

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Jun 5, 2002
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You are on the right track. I just finished an Ansonia, and on mine, all three screws had to be removed.
The movement was held to the front pillars at two points and the dial was held in place with three screws into brass blocks.
Good luck!
Grant
 

shutterbug

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Examine the movement. You don't want to remove a screw that holds the plates together, so the silver one just above the one you removed is the place to start. Remove that one, and see if you can rotate the movement.
 

Grant Perry

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These screws (which I marked A&B) do not hold the plated together, so you will be safe removing either or both.
Screw “A” hold a brass lug under the dial. The only job of that lug is to hold screw B which holds the dial and bezel. You could take out all 3 A's or all 3 B's. Either one would remove the bezel assembly and dial.
Good luck!
Grant
 

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KyleG

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Nov 4, 2006
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These screws (which I marked A&B) do not hold the plated together, so you will be safe removing either or both.
Screw “A” hold a brass lug under the dial. The only job of that lug is to hold screw B which holds the dial and bezel. You could take out all 3 A's or all 3 B's. Either one would remove the bezel assembly and dial.
Good luck!
Grant

I'd suggest removing the 3 screws that Grant has marked 'A' located approx equidistance around the dial. You should be able to reach them with a long, thin screwdriver from the rear of the case. The entire movement will then slide straight out the back door with the inner dial attached. Don't forget to remove the hands, and also it's easier if the gong is removed as Willie suggested earlier.

Kyle
 

Len Lataille

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Well, I must have the strangest crystal regs around, because the Ansonia and ST just need the screw removed below the 6 oclock position and the movement bayonet out the back.
 

harold bain

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Len, my Waterbury is just held by a single screw at the 6 position as well, but I haven't had an Ansonia to work on for quite a while, and don't recall how they mount.
 

clockpoor

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Gents, Thanks for all the comments and assistance! Strangely for some reason I stopped receiving email notification of responses to this thread and did not revisit until this evening.

I did remove the three cap screws as suggested and the movement came right out. So that problem is now resolved. My new problem is that I note that this movement is obviously polished and laquered, something I never have seen on a Seth Thomas which I am more familiar with. So question now is will ammoniated cleaner dissolve the laquer? My guess is that it will.

CP
 

shutterbug

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Oh yeah, and it will create quite a mess in your cleaning solution. Some people will clean the plates separately, avoiding chemicals. You can peg the pivot holes and do a reasonable job that way. Others clean everything in an ultrasonic cleaner, them polish the brass. If you want to do that, I'd recommend polishing first, then cleaning. It avoids polish in the pivot holes destroying your pivots and bushings, yet stays bright and shiney :).
 

clockpoor

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Thanks again for the tip, I like that idea. I will clean the outer plates separately and peg the holes while cleaning the "guts" in my ultrasonic. That will leave the laquered outer plates in fine condition.:cool:



CP
 

Len Lataille

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Harold

Thanks for helping me keep my sanity. Athough, I should have remembered that there were different ways that movements in the crystal regs were mounted.

CP

As for the lacquer, on the modern movements like Hermle, I have found that the lacquer comes off very easy with ammoniated solutions, especially if it is hot.

For some reason the antique clock makers must have used "super" lacquer as I have never been able to get it off plates, in those rare cases where I wanted to. Even after a long u/s soak in hot ammoniated solution, the lacquer held fast.

Maybe someone could shed so light on that one.
 

ogee_guy

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I took mine apart a year ago to repair broken strike spring end hole broke out. I made a long thin screwdriver out of welding rod to go through somewhere either the case or the movement to get it out of the case or apart-had to make a special tool of sorts to work on it. think I took off the bottom of the case then went up through the gears to top of the case to get a last screw with my special homemade long screwdriver to get movement seperated from case -not sure
 

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