Ansonia Clock - Loose Click

clockgirl80!

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really new to clock repair. I have an old clock that i decided to give a go on and take apart clean, oil etc. Well thanks to lots of pics and utube videos i was able to take apart, clean and get back together. Took a long time but I really enjoyed doing it. But i have one concern before i put it back in the case. It has two master springs. On one of them, it slipped a couple different times when i was winding.... meaning the click decided to not catch all of a sudden. There is a wire loop that comes around the wheel and rests against the click. I pushed on it and seems better. But it scares me to think i could be winding and then all of a sudden that click lets go. Was the wire just bent out of shape and pushing in on it should do the trick? Do I need to reshape the wire? If so how would i do that? or is there something else i should be doing? Thanks so much for any advice.

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shutterbug

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Your photo is not high enough resolution to see what condition the ratchet teeth are in, or the click face, for that matter. But that is a spring that needs to press pretty firmly on the click. You can reshape it if needed to hold firmly.
 

JTD

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Do I need to reshape the wire? If so how would i do that?

Yes, you should re-shape the wire, just bend it inwards so that it exerts more pressure on the click. Better to have it really firmly pressing against the click as Shutterbug said.

While you are at it, have a good look at the click wheel itself. To my eye it looks fairly worn and, if it is, you might be wise to replace it. However, that may just be the blurred picture or the camera angle.

JTD
 

Willie X

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If those click wheel teeth are as bad as they look in the photo, that will need to be repaired. Can you send a better photo?

I would guess (judging by that sharp bend in the click spring) that someone has already tried adding more spring pressure and that didn't work out ...

All parts of the click system need to be in A-1 condition. No defects can be tolerated. Unless you like a lot of pain and wrecked clock movements. :oops:

Willie X
 

clockgirl80!

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If those click wheel teeth are as bad as they look in the photo, that will need to be repaired. Can you send a better photo?

I would guess (judging by that sharp bend in the click spring) that someone has already tried adding more spring pressure and that didn't work out ...

All parts of the click system need to be in A-1 condition. No defects can be tolerated. Unless you like a lot of pain and wrecked clock movements. :oops:

Willie X
i have taken new pics. Hopefully these are better. if i have to replace anything where would i get the parts. I am not sure this is actually an Ansonia clock. The label on inside on the clock box says Ansonia, but there is nothing on actual movement that says Ansonia.

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JTD

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Yes, the click wheels are very, very worn and should definitely be replaced. They are in danger of failing at any moment which be disastrous for your clock.

The click wheels are easily obtained from the material houses such as Timesavers and are not expensive.

JTD
 

Tbucket

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The click appears to be loose, as it is not laying flat. The rivet needs to be tightened up or replaced. The pressure point of the spring looks to be too far back from the click contact point which reduces the force that is needed to keep the click against the click wheel.
 

R. Croswell

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The click itself doesn't look too bad, but as Tbucket said, it must lay flat and the rivet is worn and/or loose. I prefer to replace the rivet with a steel shoulder rivet but the ones sold by the supply houses seldom fit. Not hard to make one if you have a small lathe. The alternative is to place a thin shim (a piece of an old double edge razor blade or thin sheet metal) under the click to preserve a minimal clearance, and peen the old rivet tight, then remove the shim.

The ratchet wheel is pretty used up but you won't find a direct replacement at the supply houses as I believe it is part of the hub that holds the main wheel. But if you remove the wheel, you may be able to use a good 3-corner file to restore the tooth faces and slightly deepen the gullet between the teeth. Make sure the click "bottoms" in the space between the teeth and that the end of the click presses flat against the tooth face.

Note that if the click and the ratchet wheel teeth are properly shaped, and the click seats properly, the force of the mainspring will lock the click in place. The wire spring that presses against the click should be reshaped to a uniform curve, and formed so it lays flat and does not apply pressure to raise the click. It should apply enough tension to the click to get a good, click, click, click, but excessive pressure can contribute to the kind of excessive wear seen here.

RC
 

clockgirl80!

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The click itself doesn't look too bad, but as Tbucket said, it must lay flat and the rivet is worn and/or loose. I prefer to replace the rivet with a steel shoulder rivet but the ones sold by the supply houses seldom fit. Not hard to make one if you have a small lathe. The alternative is to place a thin shim (a piece of an old double edge razor blade or thin sheet metal) under the click to preserve a minimal clearance, and peen the old rivet tight, then remove the shim.

The ratchet wheel is pretty used up but you won't find a direct replacement at the supply houses as I believe it is part of the hub that holds the main wheel. But if you remove the wheel, you may be able to use a good 3-corner file to restore the tooth faces and slightly deepen the gullet between the teeth. Make sure the click "bottoms" in the space between the teeth and that the end of the click presses flat against the tooth face.

Note that if the click and the ratchet wheel teeth are properly shaped, and the click seats properly, the force of the mainspring will lock the click in place. The wire spring that presses against the click should be reshaped to a uniform curve, and formed so it lays flat and does not apply pressure to raise the click. It should apply enough tension to the click to get a good, click, click, click, but excessive pressure can contribute to the kind of excessive wear seen here.

RC
thanks everyone for the information. I will let folks know how i make out
 
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