northerner said earlier, decoding this piece is like a good mystery novel. And like a good mystery novel, the plot took an unexpected twist. At least for me, my answer (not to say “the” answer) is a surprising one.
Look closely at the cadrature, and you’ll see many features that are different from its Lecoultre 42 or SMV ebauche cousins. Here is a
post from
Philip Poniz highlighting several cousins. Just to choose an example: here is the subject watch’s setting lever, followed by those of (in order): unknown Bigelow Kennard, Vacheron Constantin, retailed by Touchon, Cartier (via Edmond Jaeger), Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet.
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So far, no one has been able to identify the cadrature. I will share my findings, with hopes of confirmation or rebuttal.
For my answer, I looked for those houses in the timeframe who offered a specialty of complicated watches--specifically, repeaters and greater--in the Locle District (Locle, Brenets, Ponts, Brevine); these would be most likely to use a Locle casemaker, which we've established is true. Then I narrowed it down to who was using this serial number range 37k-49k in our timeframe.
Finally, I turned to the movement itself: I eliminated those who are known to have used only in-house designs that were not like this, and I looked for those who marked their movements (i.e. balance cocks) in this way at the turn of the century. That generated
one house--the house to which I believe these serial numbers belong, who I believe finished & retailed these exquisite watches.
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It also generated a possible intermediary, who has not been mentioned yet on the forum.
Both are mentioned in the 1896 Swiss National Exhibition in Geneva, and I will let that summary introduce them.
This possible intermediary is Mathäus (aka Mathias or Matthias) Wolfensberger. Originally from Lempfriedsweiler, Wurtemberg, he brought his family to Locle in 1893 and set up a factory that produced the finest complications. He was 49 years old.
Tissot certainly had the means to produce/finish the grandest complications in-house—and did many. But I now have proof that they and Girard-Perregaux sourced at least some complicated movements from Wolfensberger in the late 1890s that present similarly to what we see in the subject watch.
Wolfensbeger’s in-house numbering & production was low—almost all below 1,000 before 1910. Here is
the only signed movement I could locate for him—a lovely Chronograph numbered 890, mentioned in multiple interviews with its distinguished owner as the finest in his vast collection and “better quality than Patek Philippe.” (Aside: It would be an honor to speak with him, to learn more about the cadrature!). But there are a few contract pieces known, with other sn ranges.
In 1900, Wolfensberger presented a Chronographe-Compteur—with no signature on the bridges—right below our first sn example above.
Net, I think the watch is from Tissot at the 1900-1903 range. I would love to also be able to fully tie the subject watch to Wolfensberger. That would make it a rare breed indeed!
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