Most visitors online was 1990 , on 7 Feb 2022
There is a very good system that you can find used on eBay. It is the GRS diamond sharpening system. 4 wheels and a guide. We used this in school in Switz. Another option is to buy a deckel or clone grinder and use tis diamond wheel. This will allow you to make solid carbide tools for your slide rest out of broken carbide mills.Thank you, everyone. This helps enormously. If I use the diamond paste on a piece of glass or brass, how much do I use? The amount supplied by my source (Timesavers in Az) is small. And it is expensive.
I will also look up a diamond whetstone. That strikes me as very interesting.
Skutt50: Can you make a recommendation, for example, what grit?
Sorry but I don't know!Skutt50: Can you make a recommendation, for example, what grit?
These are very good and the credit card sized ones are probably big enough for your needs, (and they aren't nearly as expensive as the larger bench stones).Finally, you can use the DMT solid electroplated bench stones to prepare your gravers. These come in 3 grades and I would use all three. This will reduce the polishing required using the paste.
The smaller the mesh and micron values, the larger the grit number, see attached chart.By the way, I understand microns but don't know the relation between microns and grit. Thirty microns correspond to 600 grit. Does 15 microns, for example, correspond to 300 grit or 900 grit. I'm inclined to think the latter.
I think I have the exact same one, Biltema right?Sorry but I don't know!
I mainly use a small (about 7,5x2,5cm.) diamond wetstone that is my favorite. It is a steel square with diamonds pressed in on one side. It was sold as a sharpener for fish hooks. When new if was rather course but over the years it has worn down to a much finder grit.
Unfortunately the shop that sold it does not have it in their asortment any more......
You would probably do fine with a medium or fine grit......
Also there are a number of grades of carbide. In my experience, the Waller grade is not very useful. I use only micrograin carbide. The grade sold by Eternal Tools also used to be very good. But I now "roll my own".One thing to bear in mind is that as carbide is brittle, the pressure normally required to hold the face flat against the stone on a HSS graver can lead to edge fracturing when run free hand or with a sharpening jig over a coarse diamond hone. At least I have found that to be the case. Rather go for light pressure and high surface speed when sharpening carbide. So either light, long strokes with a very stable jig manually or against a high speed diamond wheel as suggested by Dewey. You can certainly hone carbide at lower speeds as well but then use a finer grit and keep to less acute edges. Slow speed grinders for carbide tipped scrapers seem to be popular for instance.
Karl,You make your own carbide...?
I guessed that this would be the case, I too save any broken carbide tooling I happen to produce.Karl,
I make gravers and cutters out of broken carbide endmill shanks (6mm). I grind them square and then make whatever cutter I need. I use the remaining round section to mount the cutters in either a standard sized graver handle (held with grub screw) or in standardized square tool bit holders for my lathes (same size bit holder fits in the tool holders of my 102 and WW).
This way I only ever have one library of cutters for either lathe or graver handles.
This can be done easily with either an SO style grinder (Deckel, Alexander or Chinese clone) or I happened to luck into an Agathon clone (Star). I like the Agathon since it it has oil flow which keeps the dust down.
Karl,I guessed that this would be the case, I too save any broken carbide tooling I happen to produce.
It doesn’t really say anything about the grade of carbide though?
What a pleasure to be able to finally replace a staff. I finished sharpening the Waller. The task at hand was to take down the lower portion of a staff to fit the roller table. I do not think the roller table is original. As for the new staff, all the pivots are fine as it came, the hairspring fits snugly, and the overall length is right--no work was done on these. But the roller table would not fit. I am sure if I had tried to force fit the roller table, I would have split it. So I took the staff down. It is now snugly seated on the staff. I intend to abandon that diamond paste and buy those whetstones. Any suggestions?
Yes, you can use them on HSS or carbon steel gravers as well as on carbide, but if you want a really fine finish on the steel ones, do the final polish on a good Arkansas stone with the appropriate oil. I don't use a lubricant on carbide gravers, but I do wash the DMTs occasionally to keep them cutting.I'm assuming these whetstones may also be used for regular steel gravers, no? Any lubricant needed, like an oil?
Not in my experience, the carbide is very hard and doesn't form any edge burrs the way ordinary tool steels do. It does help to finish the edges off along rather than across them.One question though: Is it necessary to go beyond the green "Extra fine" diamond grit? Do I need to rid the tips of feathered (?) edges the way you drag tool steel and HSS over a stone? I don't feel or see any extra material on the edges.