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Adjustable pallets

Ken M

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The pallets on the Kundo I'm working on are not even close to equal. The adjustable pallets on my Schatz and Koma are equal. So I'm wondering if someone has been playing where they shouldn't have. The beat looks good, but.....Anyway, I have to think they should be CLOSE to equal. What else do I need to consider before I go playing where I shouldn't? Thanks.
 

Kevin W.

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Ken, the last thing to touch are the pallets, if they are not equal don,t worry about them yet.Unless they are marked in such a way to return them to original position, don,t move them.
If the clock is in beat and not running well, there may be other problems.
Is the clock running now Ken?
 
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doug sinclair

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Ken,

In my opinion, the first (and probably only) things you should consider are, DOES IT RUN? DOES IT RUN WELL? DOES IT KEEP TIME? (or close to it). HOW WOULD YOU HAVE ITS PERFORMANCE IMPROVE? Only then should you change the pallets, and be sure you have the Horolovar book before you do.

Doug
 

Ken M

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Hi Kevin. It's not running now. Last night it ran for about an hour, then just halted. I've been cleaning using stone age tactics. The spring on it isn't bad, but isn't good, I'll have to order some. It calls for a .0032. What will happen if I put a .0035 in it? Can I make it work? Thanks.
 

Kevin W.

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It will run with a .0035 suspension spring but i believe it will run fast.
Likely needs to be tore down and cleaned.If it is not in beat it will not stay running.But likely dirt and lack of lubrication is stopping it from running.
Good advice from Doug also.
 

Ken M

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Thanks Doug and Kevin...I'll heed your advice. As with my others, I keep cleaning and tweaking until WHALAH! What a neat feeling that is, addicting. The beat looks good, so I won't touch the pallets.
 

doug sinclair

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Ken,

Owing to the very slow speed of the gear train on these clocks, it is imperative that the mainspring be removed from the barrel, cleaned, lubricated, and re-installed, as part of a thorough servicing. On 400-day clocks, this procedure is a challenge unless you have a proper mainspring winder, or access to one. Until this is done, do not take any other factors into consideration. 400 day clock repair is a process of elimination, STARTING with the mainspring!

Doug
 

Ken M

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Thanks Doug! I wish I had a winder and the nerve to separate the plates!:confused: I'm just a hobbyist with crude methods and tools, and I've been pretty lucky. I've got three back from the dead. I expect they will stop some day, but so will I:( I'll talk to my local clock guy about cleaning and oiling that mainspring, but so far so good!
 

Kevin W.

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Ken you have been lucky to get them going with the knowledge and the tools you have.
You can if you like pursue this fun hobby and buy more tools to do more work on clocks.:)
 

Ken M

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Thanks Kevin. I have a strong mechanical background and a good understanding of how things work. I like the thrill I get when these things take off after all the frustration! And they are beautiful:) Hope you don't mind an amateur asking a lot of questions, but that's how I learn!
 

harold bain

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Ken, these are about the easiest clocks to strip down for proper cleaning. Just make sure you let down the mainspring first.
We don't mind the questions, that is what this message board is all about.
 

Ken M

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I've learned how to let down the mainspring the hard way! It bit pretty hard..How do you line everything up when you put them back together? Do they just stand at attention? Thanks Harold.
 

harold bain

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Ken, you start from the bottom, working your way up, coaxing them into their bushings. It takes practice and patience. Set the movement up high enough that you can comfortably look between the plates to see which is the next arbor that is ready to fit. A set of assembly posts such as Timesavers # 13409 is helpful, since often you need to keep the hand arbors facing down during assembly. Take pictures as you take it apart to help remember where each gear was.
Also a letdown key set would be less painful. I use the "oldtimer" letdown keys, part # 15686, 7 & 8
 

Ken M

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Thanks Harold, I think this Kundo will be the first I tear down, it is not doing well. Last night it ran for a while, it surprised me, but now I can't get anything out of it. The tools would be nice, but the budget is tight. I like picking these up for $10, and I've been lucky. This Kundo feels different, but it is beautiful, and I need to get it running. So, camera in hand, I'll go at it tomorrow.
 

harold bain

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Ken, if you've been cleaning these clocks by dunking them assembled in a cleaning solution, this is not a good idea for clocks with barrelled mainsprings (not really recommended for any clocks). You can't keep the solution out of the barrels, and you can't get it all out after cleaning. Since any cleaning solution is mostly water, you now have a steel mainspring that is wet. It will rust.
 

Ken M

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Paint thinner? My local clock guy suggested it, because that was what I asked for. It does good getting all the old stuff out. Thanks for the heads up, guess I have things to keep me amused for a while!!!
 

Ken M

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Thanks Harold. my Kundo doesn't look bad. My Schatz I just tore down, and I don't know if it can be saved, but I'll take it in tomorrow and see what he says, it's been running for over two months. But the spring looks bad, I don't have the tools to open that drum. Now I'm concerned about my Mini and the Koma...tomorrow is another day!
 

Scottie-TX

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Let's go back here for a moment;
The pallets on the Kundo I'm working on are not even close to equal
By that I presume these are adjustable pallets and that one sticks out much further than the other from the anchor?
If that is so, let me share; Ideally you'd want them to LOOK equal but gometrically and for the pupose of a properly adjustment escapment - is not necessary. You see, the gap between them is the IMPORTANT part and it can consist of equal or unequal pallet protrusion.
If the gap is changed, the beat will change as well as other paramaters, but you're aware that the beat is simply reset.
 

Ken M

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Thanks Scottie, I knew there was more to it than appearance. And now that I've had it apart, they really aren't that far different from a different perspective. Thanks for the info, I'm learning all the time. And going back, Doug said the MAINSPRING!! Thanks Doug.
 

harold bain

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Ken, you don't need anything fancy to open the barrel. The cap will easily come off, if you give the shaft on the opposite end a rap with a rubber mallet, or something similar. But you still will need to remove the spring, so maybe your repairman/friend might be able to help you.
 

Ken M

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Thanks Harold. Looks like I'm going to have to invest in a winder! And at least one mainspring. How is the size of the mainspring determined?
 

harold bain

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Ken, you will also need a micrometer to find the thickness, then measure the width and length. You will have to estimate the length, as the last few winds don't come straight when stretching it out.
Or ask here, and we might have the measurements you need.
 

Ken M

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Interesting....I didn't think they unwound like that. I'll post for info, thanks Harold.
 

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