400 Day suspension spring assembly tool construction under way.

turboflyer

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I am in the process of making a tool to hold and assemble the suspension spring. I do not know if all the pins are the same size. I have not done that many. It can be modified but it would be nice to get it close to right. So any help most appreciated.
 

etmb61

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Horolovar made individual jigs for building up suspension springs. They work well. The best thing about them is they keep the spring in line and centered in the blocks and fork. Most universal tools I've seen set the length but have no method of keeping the parts from moving.
10A10B.jpg
If I were tempted to make a tool it would be based on these jigs.

Eric
 

D.th.munroe

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They do seem to be for the most part, fairly close in size.
On my m&b tool the clearance holes for the pins/ and for holding blocks with taper pins in are 1.6mm.
This tool never gets used though, its not the best design, no way to hold everything in place the taper pins only work usually for the top block (funny Eric just said that as I was typing)
Here's pictures of it though, if it helps in any way.
Dan

16205245508123183811831608676593.jpg 16205246320524947072859604912385.jpg
 

Wayne A

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It only takes a problem clock or two to get real good at setting them up. Heres my fixture, a wood block, hole for lower block, strait line for alingment reference and caliper. Also use another block to hold the caliper up along side the suspension assembly.

Wayne

20210508_204249.jpg
 
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turboflyer

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Thanks to all. I think I am over engineering this. I could mill slots to keep blocks and forks aligned. Or make a small square to fix the items into perfect alignment. I should have went with the wood, hole caliper approach. To late now .I am committed to pain.

CB954ECD-1261-4450-9C20-EB88347E8313.jpeg
 

turboflyer

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Feb 17, 2016
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Horolovar made individual jigs for building up suspension springs. They work well. The best thing about them is they keep the spring in line and centered in the blocks and fork. Most universal tools I've seen set the length but have no method of keeping the parts from moving.
View attachment 653474
If I were tempted to make a tool it would be based on these jigs.

Eric
I like that but alas no CNC at this point . I wonder how many different jigs you would need. I will probably spend more time making my tool than replacing suspension springs.
 

etmb61

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I'm not sure why CNC would be an issue. Terwilliger certainly didn't have it. I would use sheet metal, a chassis nibbler tool, and clean up with files.

See now you have me interested. If I where making jigs, I would make a selection of small plates to fit the blocks and forks individually as needed and have a frame to hold them in position for any particular spring arrangement. In that way you could select the plates that fit the parts you have and lay them out for the desired suspension assembly you're making. Then it's just a matter of dropping the parts in and tightening the screws. (in my mind anyway)

Eric
 

KurtinSA

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I am of the mind that this is a solution looking for a problem. I'll admit, when I first got started, I bought a completely assembled suspension unit as a replacement for my first clock...I quickly realized I couldn't afford to keep doing that! Then using what is in Rabushka's book, I got a 1x4 flat board with a hole at one end. It just takes a good set of pliers and take your time...these things don't need to be torqued down, just get them tight.

If you do design something, it had better be adjustable in all ways. The fork never ends up where the repair guide suggests. If you have a pendulum that doesn't go with the clock but is what is what came with the clock, then the spring length may vary somewhat. I've had to replace the top block with something from my stash...I don't necessarily get the style/shape that the guide calls for but just get one that fits/works.

Also, these type of top blocks are difficult to hold even with a pair of pliers...would have to deal with them in whatever fixture is built.

Kurt

TopBlocks.jpg
 
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turboflyer

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I am thinking maybe a three pin configuration for top and bottom blocks. That would control loosening and tightening torques as well as alignment. Thinking on a simple squaring alignment fixture for the fork. All the round parts already made are adjustable. A work in progress for sure. Thanks to all.
 
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turboflyer

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A little more progress. Not going to use the three pin configuration. Will have to make a small square , maybe with a clamping screw.
Decided to go with what I have for now.

7B833344-DDC4-46A5-BE64-0521A0182DDA.jpeg BC7C59D0-3BED-4642-98E4-870301A307C7.jpeg
 

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