I found that after years the IKA loses accuracy by wear of its parts.
The right jaws wear and you may find 1/100 difference between front and rear edge of the jaws.
The toothed bar inside wears and makes 1-2/100 difference in various openings between 0 and 10 mm.
as a silent reader of this thread, I considered it more than inappropriate to adress Mr. Kieffer like a beginner who does not know how a staking tool is used!
We could already see, that the endlessly mentioned WOSTEP instructions are not beyond doubt, too.
Sceptics forced me to do what I wanted to avoid: search through my library and make a scan.
I found this in a Jendritzki book from 1950. In German however :)
Caption: "Balance screws under the dial".
for me, using an engraving machine for making parts is outdated.
I draw my watch parts with CorelDRAW, send the file to a fine laser company and get the parts ready for plug and play. The parts are cheap, but a fixed fee for setup applies. Sample attached.
How about reading posts really instead of insulting writers of helpful replies?
And the Sternkreuz catalog is available online. All radii are centimeters, as Chris stated more than once.
Order no. samples:
where R3 and R4 are the radius of edge curvature. Not too...
As I understand, they are for decorative work, applying the last polished finish, not for heavy cutting.
I have a diamont cutter from India (they are cheap and come in various shapes), but use it very rarely on my lathe.