I'm trying to date this nice cathedral clock.
I guessing around 1910?, but too many conflicting entries in their catalog.
The stamp on the bottom of the clock looks like 5179 , and missing the typical letter month code.
Apologies for not getting back sooner...
After completing the drop test a few times I was able to narrow down the issue.
I narrowed it down to one location where I wasn't able to get movement. (see photo).
After that it took me longer than it should have to remove the pallet arbor, mainly...
I call it as I see it. What I thought I saw originally seems not to be the case the further you you get into the movement.
I still say this movement looks better than the way it's acting, I'm just failing to see the root cause.
Thank you Willie X excellent idea.
RC this clock is charitable work I got talked into from Habit for Humanity. It's from a Thomas Tompian HM model. They were hoping to get more $$ for it in running condition.
I get nothing out of this labor, that's why the shortcuts...
Thanks to both of you. I would never have expected a 5th off center post like that.
I will definitely try . As you said I have nothing to lose at this point.
It makes sense to me that once the pallet fork is out, spring wound, it should/could free what's binding
Easy for you ,difficult for me Willie X. I have a 4 year old grandson here for the weekend.
Just shoot me now...lol
I do have a question though
"Don't forget to remove the center post nut"
My old eyes sees nothing resembling a nut. Terminology maybe?
No noise Willie X, other than normal, nothing shook loose, for me anyway. I haven't removed the pallet fork. I didn't think of it actually. No oiling but I did use a contact cleaner sparingly on pivots and the time train arbors . It's been successful for me on really old gummed up movements.