Got a S. T. Ogee from 1863. It's the 29.5" model shown in Tran Duy Ly vol.2, page 650. Unfortunately, it is missing its weights. It has a harp or Lyre-shaped 8-day movement with an alarm. The movement is numbered 3063 on page 981 of the same volume of Tran's book.
I have had up to 3.5 pounds...
I have to agree with this practice to quicken the testing for BPH with a Microset. Also, I usually perform a short testing period on each clock after assembly without lubrication and without the pendulum to reveal any gross problems. If there are adjustments to be made that require the plates to...
Thanks for all the replies and good advice to all who responded. It is much appreciated.
I have tried all my usual methods for removing that arbor, to no avail.
I had resigned myself to making a stake and using a press to work on this problem, but a friend made a suggestion to me that caused...
Willie, thanks for the reply. What you say makes sense, and that is what I orginally thought. However, the lifting was so unsuccessful that I thought there might be something else going on there.
Why did you say what I quoted from your reply? Why would I need a new center arbor?
I am in need of some advice from those who have removed the center arbor from an Urgos UW66035 movement. This is a discontinued movement that seems to have some strange qualities for my experience.
I am trying to remove the center arbor which needs rebushing on both the front and rear plates...
No, I do not believe there is any such manual. General disassembly is covered by some texts, but nothing specific for each type of clock. For example, general disassembly and cleaning is covered in Conover's "Clock Repair Basics."
The chapters in "Striking Clock Repair Guide" cover the most...
Yes, eteo, there is a book you can refer to for a S.T. no. 7. Steven Conover's "Striking Clock Repair Guide," page 69. You can obtain this book from many places, including the NAWCC gift shop, various horological suppliers (like Merritt's or TimeSavers); or you can visit the author's website...
Yes, they are to me also. I have some bronze bushings that were mistakenly shipped by a supplier. I paid for them and kept them but never did use any of them, yet. I'm just not sure about bronze.
True enough, Bang. But thinking of the surface hardening that takes place with a smoothing broach, it won't render the whole bushing hard. I think the slightly harder surface will allow the bushing to last longer without damaging the pivot if it is kept oiled. The harder surface gives some...
Interesting article but I still use smoothing broaches. If you cut, you smooth afterwards. It only makes sense. Otherwise, you will get more wear quicker. As Bangster would say, "That's my story and I'm stick'n to it."
Kevin, I haven't found many books strictly on cuckoo clock repair. I have a copy of recently published book, "Cuckoo Clock Repair Made Simple" by Tom Seaman. It's a step-by-step presentation with lots of pictures. It also has troubleshooting and musical movement sections. It retails for about...
Good point, John. If that's the case, I'd rather construct stationary trundles. Reducing the frequency of having to make shrouds is OK by me.
Note my grasping for an excuse to make all stationary trundles. :thumb:
I think there were two schools of thought on lantern pinion trundles. One believed in firm, non-rolling trundles, and the other believed that rolling trundles were superior. I have heard theories on the latter method reducing friction between the interaction of the wheel and the pinion. Also...
The rolling trundles should not be a problem. If your fly is too loose, well, you know that can be a problem. If the fly's trundles are rolling, that isn't a problem either.
Veritas, some lantern pinions have rolling trundles. It is normal for those clocks in which they were designed. Sometimes there are debates on how one should install trundles in a latern pinion, stationary or rolling.
Now when you say they are loose, you mean they are rolling in place but not...
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