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  1. SuffolkM

    A nice little resilvering project

    This Winterhalder and Hoffmeier dial was in a sorry state. I think it was brown boot polish in the VIII numeral! It's usually possible to tell when W&H dials have not been restored, partly because they look very old and worn, but also there is a layer of copper under the silver (I assume this...
  2. SuffolkM

    Kienzle 'click spring' made with a paperclip

    Hi folks I'm sure you'll enjoy this one; photo from a Kienzle three train movement, having a very powerful spring on the chime train (so much so it needs two click springs). Not only is this unsafe (can you imagine the hurt of the winding key on your fingers? eep)...but I'll bet it never...
  3. SuffolkM

    Improving bell ring

    Hi folks, I'm working on improving the sound of a 3" brass bell mounted on a standoff on the back of a bracket clock, which has a relatively loud "thump" associated with each strike. I've dealt with bouncing, damping the strike etc now but am still struggling with the bell acoustics. If I...
  4. SuffolkM

    Deciphering help

    Hi folks I wonder if anyone can extract the central signature engraved on this plate, just below the Taylor signature. I'm trying to get my head into the writing style, and it's tantalising, but still not sure. It's from a bracket clock, front plate engraving near the left fusee arbor pivot and...
  5. SuffolkM

    Hurst, Leeds bracket clock

    Hi folks, I wanted to share this one with you, as I'm super happy to have acquired it! It's a nice old Victorian bracket clock, dial enscribed "Hurst, Leeds". I'm not sure if this would be the same person as Hirst, a well known Leeds maker who had a shop on Briggate, and haven't found much info...
  6. SuffolkM

    Repivoting escape wheel

    Hi guys I've got a Japy Freres French clock movement in which stopped, and the reason I've discovered is that the pivot on the escape wheel is broken (a little stub left). The arbor is 1.1mm across before the shoulder, and judging from the stub the pivot might be around 0.4mm. I can get...
  7. SuffolkM

    Help recognizing maker's mark

    Hi all This indistinct maker's mark is on the back plate of a small French movement. I'm not getting much luck tracking it down. Perhaps you recognise it and could help me identifying this maker? Thanks Michael
  8. SuffolkM

    USB microscopes - invaluable!

    Hi all, I recently bought a USB microscope on Amazon for around £35 (perhaps $40 - $50 - cheaper ones are out there, amazingly, but this one had a stand). I've found it absolutely great for studying pivot holes and pivots before and after polishing, and thought it worthy of a mention. The...
  9. SuffolkM

    Lenzkirch bracket clock - any idea on brocot key for this?

    I recently bought this Lenzkirch walnut bracket clock, which I think is very handsome (perhaps not to everyone's tastes but it's a German vibe that I like, having lived there for a while). I've done very light restoration, resilvered the dial and serviced it. It is an exceptional movement, a...
  10. SuffolkM

    Spring torque when fully wound

    Hi folks I'm working on a Westminster chiming mantel clock (Enfield) which needed a bit of tidying up and bushing etc. This being done, it was ok for 5 days but stopped, so I decided to change the springs. Now it's back together again, it runs for at least 8 days (I rewound it then). When...
  11. SuffolkM

    Reinserting gong coil to block

    Hi folks, Photos attached. This is one of a pair of coils from a W&H ting-tang which I recently acquired and have restored. This one is a ting-thud. The coil itself is fine, but with just the force of my hand I found I could remove it from the block, hence the lack of proper transfer of the...
  12. SuffolkM

    Alternatives to lacquering

    Hi all, After carefully shellacing, preparing and silvering a dial, I am often slightly hesitant about lacquering, as it can be easy to melt or smear the shellac if there is slightly too much time with the lacquer sitting in liquid form. I use Horolacq, which is the recommended finishing...
  13. SuffolkM

    Fixing longcase backboard to wall

    I'm looking to attach the backboard of my latest clock firmly to the wall, to keep it stable. There is a pine spacer plate already in place which works well against the depth of my skirting boards. It has been screwed in from the back, just at the top of the trunk, and the screws do not...
  14. SuffolkM

    Removing bees wax in oak grain

    Hi everyone, I'm restoring a late 18th century longcase clock, one of the best features of which is a beautiful old oak case. The grain and years of polishing have given it a beautiful patina, and I am taking great pleasure in gradually bringing it back to life after quite a bit of neglect...
  15. SuffolkM

    Old movement - maker's mark

    Hi all I've just started work on a John Stanyer longcase clock, late 1700s, which hasn't been run or cleaned in a few decades. Gladly, although it is filthy, the clock has a feel of being 'all together' - not too much messed around with and deserving of some tlc. I am sure it will not be long...

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Rockford's early high grade movements by Greg Frauenhoff