These are very important, for if they're worn sufficiently the barrel will tip and rub against something. Check by trying to wiggle the barrel to see how far it will tip.
What I have done under such mysterious circumstances is to bush the escapement: escape wheel and pallet arbor. Even if these pivots look perfect with negligible side shake, bush them anyway. That's because these pivots wear out their holes in weird ways, and if the pallet arbor or the escape...
That looks like a 'Vienna regulator' or something similar. I don't know how my betters here deal with it, but I've always had a difficult time getting the pendulum and the gongs behind the movement. They do fit there theoretically, but it's not easy to prevent things from hitting each other...
Suspension springs live dangerous lives. That's why you can buy "suspension feathers" in bundles of 10 or 25, and I've probably gone through several bundles in 8 years.
M Kinsler
Sometimes a whack won't do it. I think it was some German clock that had the barrel lids approximately welded on. I had to use my faithful Harbor Freight six ton press to remove those.
M Kinsler
It's an interesting though unproven. Friction, as best we understand it, is the formation and destruction of thousands of micro-welds between two surfaces. The reason that brass always rides upon steel is that these two metal are reluctant to weld to each other. If the surfaces are rough...
In point of fact, that's quite helpful. I now know that a press fit is a possibility. I'll try heating the cam, taking care of the little return spring, and take another test pry.
Many thanks.
Mark Kinsler
I've ordered Mr Conover's chime clock book but...
I still cannot remove the chime countwheel cam from the center of the back plate. If there's a setscrew between the cam and the plate a true expert must have hidden it. My photo archives show a similar movement disassembled, but this movement...
Note that Cogsdill's machines perform roller burnishing, which is never done in horological work. Their only machines that use "friction burnishing" (or what ever you'd call burnishing with one of those no-tooth files) do not use steel. Their surfaces are made of diamond, which I doubt clock...
Unfortunately, a mainspring winder is one of the unavoidable investments in this particular business. You can get everything else from the local flea market. They cost a lot because not many are sold. Please do not even consider this one: Loop End Mainspring Winder. (Yes, I bought one but...
And they won't be Timken roller bearings, either. Since I've never lived in the 1800's I can't tell you what the factory finish on pivots looked like, but I'm fairly sure that the finish on the plain bearings isn't much more sophisticated than that of a ten-penny nail.
Yes, some clock bearings...
As for the shiniest possible finish on steel, it likely doesn't make the best plain bearing surface. Have a look at this: Superfinishing - Wikipedia
Mark Kinsler
The way to remove abrasive grains that might cling to a pivot is to wipe them off. I polish mine with Timesavers' buffs. The 1/0 size uses aluminum oxide abrasive, fairly coarse. Then I apply, in turn, the other sizes: 2/0, 3/0, 4/0, 5/0, and finally the green 6/0 buffs. These buffs remove a...
Fashion a substantial wooden club. Hold the spring barrel in your hand, possibly with a heavy winter glove. Referring to your second photograph, hold the barrel so that the side without the lid is upward. Give the protruding steel spring arbor (axle) a few sharp whacks with the club. Unless...
Find some welding gloves and take the old mainspring out of the barrel, remembering which way it is wound. Measure its thickness (often around .015" and its width (around 3/4' to 1") and its length (maybe around 90 inches.) Look for a replacement spring here: Welcome to TimeSavers | Worldwide...
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