You might want to check out this video:
Machines are a little larger than yours but the principles still apply.
Joe Pieczynski is an extraordinarily talented machinist. I always learn something whenever I watch his presentations.
You might want to consider this:
Suspension Spring 12-Piece Assortment (timesavers.com)
I bought this assortment a while ago and have used several of the suspension springs to repair various German clocks. The replacement spring assembly doesn't have to be an exact match to the original as...
The original spring may be pressed in. If you have a lathe, you could try drilling a small diameter hole in the center bottom of the screw slot. Then a suitable diameter steel pin could be used as a drift to push out the remains of the original spring.
This might sound obvious, but I had an issue identical to yours on a T & S Gustav Becker with a rod gong.
Turns out the brass rod which connects the strike hammer to its pivot was barely contacting one of the movement holder posts, making a clacking sound as it struck. Re-contouring the rod...
Very cool, nice job!
What's the thread size?
Looks like you used aluminum flat bar, what dimensions?
Is that steel square tubing?
If you wouldn't mind posting a photo of your assembly next to a ruler it would be appreciated!
In your earlier post you state, " The chime barrel for the HH is hollow, while the H 1/2 movement's chime barrel is solid. "
FYI my H 1/2 chime barrel is hollow... also your chime hammer springs and suspension spring arrangement are significantly different from mine...
Thanks for the info, it is appreciated! Sorry I missed your previous post, thanks for the link.
Agree with you about the coiled gongs. I especially like the strike gong, it is surprisingly deep and sonorous.
One annoyance, there seems to be no chime correction feature on this movement...
Recently finished overhauling this German Westminster chime clock. The movement has no manufacturer's markings I am aware of. I would appreciate any comments re. who manufactured this clock, and when.
FWIW, My Sherline is a short bed with inch calibrated hand wheels. I love it, and using suitable tooling as Jerry mentions in post #2 I find the bed length ideal. As far as self centering chucks, I use both the 3-jaw and the 4-jaw depending on the material I'm working with. On round...
Bending the wire is a lot easier when you have the correct "wire bending pliers". Look for pliers with an opposing concave jaw. These are widely available from many suppliers. It takes a bit of practice but isn't especially difficult.
Photo shows a couple of my favorites.
Here is what I use:
As Jerry Keiffer has presented, you can grind a flat diagonally on one end of the pin (they're 2" long) and use it as a reamer. This doesn't hurt the utility of the pin for its original purpose.
I use mine all the time. I bought a second...
I have used CRATEX rubberized abrasive wheels to polish escapement anchor faces, with excellent results.
Something like this might work on a smaller sized part:
Rubberized Points - Points - MSC Industrial Supply (mscdirect.com)
Another thing to watch for, make sure that when the strike train gathering pallet's rotation stops that the warning pin on the strike train wheel isn't too close to the strike warning lever.
I recently discovered this very issue on an Urgos UW03 movement - the clock would stop at the quarter...