That's why I wanted to get it identified, so I just MIGHT find "the rest of the clock" parts somewhere and get this one complete. I don't think I really will, but if not, it's STILL neat. I also got a couple of other designs and manufacturers (that I KNOW what they are) to see how other...
Those are GREAT tips, particularly the pendulum length, thanks. I actually DID remember learning the difference between the striker and chime when you mentioned it, but appreciate the pointer. I forgot and used the wrong term (probably NOT the only one I've used or WILL use again).
Thanks. It doesn't have the name above the logo, and has "15" stamped on the back plate, which I'm coming to learn might be the year it was made. That's DEFINITELY the mark, though. This is just SO MUCH FUN! Thanks for welcoming me.
Thanks. My camera isn't good at closeups, but the logo is a clock dial with numbers around it, hands at 10 and 7 (left side), and 4 chime bars hanging down the right side of the dial face. That rack of serrations gets engaged by the pin sticking forward on the face, just below the gear that...
I was given a Howard Miller Urban II with a broken cable that needed work, so I fixed it - and had a BALL doing so. I also inherited an old Kienzle that my great grandparents brought over from Poland, which desperately needs service. I found this forum when looking for pictures of the Kienzle...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.