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Using a boring bar is a great option if you can do it.
I have to go to my larger lathe Southbend 9" A1 Precision C. 1951 which has a crossfire and a QCTP on it.
If you have this capability; using a boring bar to "creep up" on the I.D. can save you the time of polishing the inside to fit.
Carbide is tougher than woodpecker lips!
You need a diamond wheel on a tool shop grinder to deal with just sharpening most of it.
Used; a tool room grinder is easily $1200 without a wheel which could run you another $450.
That's why I suggest to make the tapered adapter out of...
I found Dave's website and will probably order the adjustable cutter today. There were also listed many tail stock tapered inserts ($10.00/ea.) that will likely fit some to the small lathe tail stock tubes/runners I have now. For the hour it would take me to grind and polish one from...
That's great because I just got the original one out of the runner. The WD40 Rust Penetrater worked so I tapered a 4D nail (soft steel) on the belt sander and with just a light tap from a small ball peen hammer it came right out.
It is a tapered pin like a tiny morse taper with the cup probably...
I did find DeCarles pages 260 & 261 - please see my text above:
Very informative and useful - Thanks so much.
I just realized what you were writing about using the jewel to copy for making the new pattern. It is awesome!
I only got one runner tip with the tailstock and it is stuck...
Much thanks to everyone for your painstaking and incredibly informative responses including special thanks to: Graham Morse, Betzel (posted 2 really nice videos), Wefalck and Dave Coatsworth.
I found the 2 pages in Practical Watch Repairing and they are pages 260 & 261. These have...
Hello Archie, Magnificent response! and very informative.
Q set #1: Based on your info in the first paragraph - That's what the cup end on the runner extension is for? To turn in the edge of the bezel against the edge of the jewel (when placed in the bezel socket) and roll the metal to hold...
Thank you for your response and the info Wefalck! I don't have access to that resource. Perhaps at some time in the future (time & opportunity permitting) you could post the instructions for use for me (us)? I'm presuming it is in a book? Thanks. Steve
Thanks for the details on the E.H. Watch movements.
I also have an American Watch Tool Co. lathe tailstock I need some info on as in "What the heck is it?"
Below is a link to an ebay item description with some nice photos in it.
The draw tube will swing in and out of the center...
Earlier I should have given credit to Tom McIntyre who's sharp eyes found that the dial screws on E.Howard SN: 31882 are a wine color (not blued) indicating that they should only be snug and not tight. Thank you Tom!
You gentlemen have been really generous with your time and posts to...
So just barely "snug" on those is OK?
Are there any (other than going very gently) foibles you may be aware of when replacing the balance assembly and putting the cock back in place?
I typically check that the staff spindles are in place by using my air bulb on the balance wheel to help create...
Thanks so much for posting your notes on this movement.
Your and Clint's observations are now in my notebook.
If you have any comments or points on what to look for during a clean out on this movement; those would also be greatly appreciated.