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I was looking at 10236, thinking the lighter weight would help. I thought the bob it had was a larger one, but I guess I'll have to pack it home and look into it more in depth.
Thanks.
BTW, what is this type of clock called? This one is similar to mine, with the "chisel" shaped drop. The...
Hi all,
So I picked up an octagon schoolhouse/regulator clock a while back at auction, and I swear it had the pendulum bob and key when I bought it. A month or 2 later when I get into it, they are missing. So, the key is a standard #6, nothing special there, but I don't know what I can do for...
I figured the first loop around is at arbor diameter. I like Tinker's formula better, more elegant. Also, if the spring turns out to be longer than the formula gives, it's no problem, but if the spring is shorter, that could be an issue later.
I'll get to measuring one out and run the numbers...
It would be fully wound. The equation above is a good approximation, from what I can tell in my spreadsheet.
I set up a spreadsheet that calculates the length for each layer like this:
Pi*D (where D is the arbor diameter, at first.)
Then, the next row of the sheet calculates D as follows...
I managed to get it to run fine for the first 24 hours, after that it goes all to hell. I can't remember if it goes faster or slower after 24, sorry. I've more or less decided to take it back to original.
It's a Seth Thomas, not sure of the model, but it's the same as in my own mini-ogee 30...
After more running, it seems that the time side is very fast. I may need to extend the suspension rod (pendulum rod?) to be able to regulate the clock down more, as the weight is down as far as it can go now, but it seems to be closer to keeping proper time.
Ok, so after a bit of delay, I installed the springs yesterday. These were the 96"x3/8"x.017 thick. It is a bit stronger than the originals; the strike is very fast and I may revert the strike to the original spring as it may actually run the strike for the needed 3 days.
After reassembly and...
It's an open spring. The mainwheels are 2.5 inches, the current spring when fully wound is 1" diameter. I used 2" as my wound diameter, leaving myself plenty of expansion, since even with the shaft of the gears that run off the mainwheels (1st wheels?) there's plenty of room off the side in...
What I found wasn't too much higher than TS. I figured 25' would make 2 96" springs (it'll do 3, actually.) so for what I needed it was only a buck or 3 higher.
But I'm sure TS buys theirs from China or India...
Hey RC,
I was thinking of going to 7/16 width, but TS didn't have anything that would improve on the 3/8 in length.
But, I think I will get some steel from McMaster and play when I start experimenting with mine. Looking at it from a resale point of view, making a spring would be faster for...
Well, it's more than buying a pre-made spring at TS, at least for 3/8 width x 96" long. I went ahead and got them from Timesavers, opting for priority mail, since I've been sitting on this job a bit long. I had to find and buy a battery for my micrometer, of all excuses...
I suspect that...
Waaay beyond my capabilities...but that would indeed be a neat trick.
The spring fully wound has a diameter of 1 inch. It is .016 thick. The arbor is .198. The mainwheel diameter is 2.5 inches and that is where the closest obstruction is.
For room, I'm figuring on 2 inches ID for the formula...
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