I have some experience to solder two broken parts of the rod with regular solder, so it was not shorten. The small part can be screwed out rather easily.
The point of connection was firm more or less, however if it can be soldered with brass allow - it will be best I believe.
I believe that aluminum is a replacement in 20th century. No justification for using this metal here. And all dial was repainted in that time I think. Clock are from 18th century, probably first half.
Dear Dean, thank you for the reply.
I can not take a pictures at the moment, since clock are at my fathers workshop.
SILENT/STRIKE mechanism was fully recovered as drown here and it works fine.
So silent/strike is fully working as I believe it should be in origin. I will take pictures of this...
Let me push up this thread.
Coming back to some lost parts. It looks as second strike system, but smaller one... As this was Shepherd's clock - could these holes hold some electrical parts (kind of contactor). Did anyone see such things on other clocks?
I have couple of wooden plate clocks marked "MD" . One 30 hours, with wooden dial.
(this is big one 150mm*150mm guy)
Another one week-duration hooded clock
Marking here as ell, not best but can be read.
On previous two there also mark on drums "AF"
(30 hours drum)...
Wellcome on the forum jtlenton!
Very beutiful art deco design and very correspond to mid 1920's.
I beleave that foreign means that this clock was imported to GB. From Germany most probably. Can't say exactly what was the maker, maybe front plate look can help.
Rod, I understand Russian quite well)) and I can translate for you but there not much more then that I have already tryed to mention in my previous message. Still if you would like we can discuss it by voice and I will translate each word.
I still not fully sure if that guy on video I shared to...
As I catched from some russian videos you should just gently pull the bezel off (still no video with removing itself - sorry). Normally you should not bent those 3 rivets before you remove the bezel. Using some plastic sharp things as levers applying them in the points where those 3 rivets are...
Ralph, I just not agree with You if you see there pallet faces. Theare no pallet faces on the anchor). That's why this is pure Graham in nature.
And for sure this works only if EW goes teethes faces forward.
I don't agree, more looks like tooth pushes edges of the anchor. So this is flipped Graham. It fould be flipped Broccot if teethes was rounded on the ends but it is not the case.
I could say that this close to Swiss type... but still no, this is poor Graham...
Also there could be really no...