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Go Back   National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors Message Board > Horological Education > Clock Case Restoration and Repair.

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  #1  
Old 10-20-2005, 06:59 AM
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Default Buying shellac

Hello all;

Looking for advise on where to buy shellac. I want the best bang for the buck.

I have several clocks that I know I would love to restore with new coats of shellac.

I understand that I should probably try to get orange dewaxed shellac (after reading a few of craig's post).

Any ideals on how much I should try to aquire for about 4 clock cases. (2 ogee's and 2 mantles).

Also seems to be some confusion about water mix vs alcohol mix. (If alcohol does it have to be de-natured alcohol?).

Also if someone could comment on the cut ratio again, it would be apreciated.

Thanks in advance.
RJ
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2005, 06:59 AM
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Default Buying shellac

Hello all;

Looking for advise on where to buy shellac. I want the best bang for the buck.

I have several clocks that I know I would love to restore with new coats of shellac.

I understand that I should probably try to get orange dewaxed shellac (after reading a few of craig's post).

Any ideals on how much I should try to aquire for about 4 clock cases. (2 ogee's and 2 mantles).

Also seems to be some confusion about water mix vs alcohol mix. (If alcohol does it have to be de-natured alcohol?).

Also if someone could comment on the cut ratio again, it would be apreciated.

Thanks in advance.
RJ
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  #3  
Old 10-20-2005, 07:02 AM
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Default Buying shellac

So far ebay has seller with orange dewaxed for 1 pound for just under $20 including shipping.

RJ
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2005, 09:32 AM
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Default Buying shellac

"RM", Robert Fullerton recommended to me http://www.homesteadfinishing.com and to you I recommend the same. My 1lb. bag no. 1016 cost $18. Of course any respondent may feel free to expostulate on "cut" but if ya wanna just "cut" to the chase - here: I haven't abandoned my project Robert. I have all the materials and am still looking forward to it. ROBERT! Any feel for applying shellac with spray apparatus?
old ref::http://nawcc-mb.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/57460...051078951#5051078951
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  #5  
Old 10-20-2005, 09:48 AM
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lamarw lamarw is offline
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Default Buying shellac

Concur with the source Scottie-TX gave you. You may want to also include in your order the Shellac-Wet since it really helps when you add to the mix. I use a plastic squeeze bottle to mix mine in. I used an old 12 oz plastic bottle that contact lens saline solution came in. Dry it out thoroughly. My formula is 2 ozs. orange shellac, 8 ozs. denatured alcohol and four or five drops of shellac-wet. I think Homstead is the only place with Shellac-wet. You may want to read what they say about shellac-flat; although I have not used it. Don't forget your rubbing or buffing stuff like medium course & fine pumice and rottenstone. The paraffin oil is good for using with the buffing powders and even with wet 400 or 600 grit sand paper. I think Homestead has all that stuff.
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  #6  
Old 10-20-2005, 11:11 AM
TomT TomT is offline
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Default Buying shellac

The strengths (cuts) of shellac most commonly used for wood finihshing are the one-pound, two-pound and three-pound cuts.

A one pound cut is simply one pound of shellac flakes added to one gallon of alcohol. That is 16 oz (by weight) of flakes to 128 liquid-oz of alcohol. A two pound cut is (obviously) 2 pounds of shellac to one gallon of alchohol.

A gallon is just too much shellac to mix at one time so a more practical mixture is 8 liquid ounces.

The mix for various cuts is as follows:

1lb cut: 1 oz flakes to 8 oz alcohol
2lb cut: 2 oz flakes to 8 oz alcohol
3lb cut: 3 oz flakes to 8 oz alcohol

Normally, a 2 or 3 lb cut is used for finishing stripped or previously unfinished wood. It is thicker and fills grain faster.

The 1lb cut is usually used as a finish coat. It is thin, goes on nicely but doesn't do a lot of filling. It's a good cut for your final polishing.

As far as alcohol goes, the best you can find is worth using. It makes application easier.



Basic Denatured alcohol can be bought at home stores and paint stores. A better quality shellac solvent is often available from suppliers of flakes. The difference is that the better stuff has less water in it to begin with so last longer.

Don't skimp on the quality of shellac flakes or the alcohol you use. A mix of shellac goes a very long way so your cost to finish a clock is actually very low even with the best flakes and alcohol.

A final note, don't mix more than you will actually use in a week or two. Once mixed, the shellac will absorb moisture no matter how tight you seal it. Alcohol is, by nature, hygroscopic. It loves to absorb water.

I usually only mix 1/2 oz of flakes with 4 oz of alcohol. This will usually do a case for me with a fair amount left over.

Once you begin to use fresh mixed shellac, you will never want to use anything else........

Regards,
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  #7  
Old 10-20-2005, 11:19 PM
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Default Buying shellac

Thanks Tom T; Excellent post.
RJ
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  #8  
Old 10-21-2005, 12:08 AM
Robert M. Robert M. is offline
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Default Buying shellac

Scottie ole buddy,I've never applied Shellac with a spray gun but I certainly think its doable.I would imagine you would want your cut pretty thin,say one pound or a pound and a half cut to facilitate the spraying process.Personally I would also recommend the Shellac-Wet for wetting out the sprayed Shellac.Only my own opinion but I believe Shellac-Wet probably started out as an aid in spraying Shellac based on what I read on a wood refinishing site a while back.
I hope this answers a little bit of your question ole buddy.Thanks for asking,great question.
Respectfully,Bob Fullerton
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