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  1. #1

    Default replacing cable on Hermle 351-850

    Hi List,

    Does anyone out there have a detailed procedure for replacing the cable on this movement without removing the drum, plastic sleeve, etc.

    This is the hybrid odd ball with double weights driving the time and regular springs for the chime and strike, front to back traveler on the tail of the cable, usually found in small GFs and large wall clocks of late. This one is 1990.

    I've done this job several times but it is a bear to get everything back together so that the traveler and stops all work correctly.

    I'm hopeful that there is an easier way

    Thanks, Willie X

  2. #2

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: Willie X)

    You might try removing the verging and running out the cable.

  3. #3

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: MARK A. BUTTERWORTH)

    Mark,

    On this one, the drum will only let down about 1/4 turn further after removing the stop-work. Then the traveler mechanism jams at the end of the threads, leaving about 1 1/2 turns of cable on the drum. The remaining cable is well protected by the plastic retainer sleeve

    Willie X

  4. #4

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: Willie X)

    If you're replacing the cable, how about cutting the old one off, unwrapping by hand and turning the spool until you can get easy access to the anchor slot to remove the old piece and start the new one?

  5. #5

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: shutterbug)

    Bug,

    This is one of those clock mechanisms that is very different from anything I am aware of. I thought someone might have a write-up or something from the manufacturer on how to replace the cable. If nothing surfaces in a few weeks, I will publish something, might help someone out. I can do these OK but am thinking there might be an easier way.

    There are quite a few of these movements out there and the cable seems to get broken a little more often than usual. Probably due to accidents trying to hang the double weights.

    Willie X

  6. #6
    Forums Administrator harold bain's Avatar
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    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: Willie X)

    Willie, seems to me I did one of these a few years ago. I think I was able to bend the pin that holds the plastic guard enough to remove it, then straighten it after replacing the cable. I don't recall having any problems doing this.
    harold bain, Member ch 33
    "If it won't "tick",
    let me "tock" to it"

  7. #7

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: harold bain)

    Quote Originally Posted by harold bain View Post
    I think I was able to bend the pin that holds the plastic guard enough to remove it, then straighten it after replacing the cable.
    Harrold,

    That's th one! Bending might be the best option. It's difficult to get a good stake on it if you remove it and if the pin comes loose the plastic sleeve will stop the clock. I've noticed, on the one I'm workin on now, that this pin is already bent little from the factory. So ... I found that with a little unnecessary force, the cable drum assembly can be removed without bothering the pin.

    Willie X

  8. #8

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: Willie X)

    Willie - could you post a pic of that critter for us?

  9. #9

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: shutterbug)

    Bug,

    No ... sorry. It's all back together now and on a test run. If I have to take it out, I will definitely send pictures. This one went smoothly compared to earlier ones (fingers crossed) ...
    definitely a case where a picture would be worth at least a thousand words though.

    Take care, Willie

  10. #10

    Default Re: replacing cable on Hermle 351-850 (RE: Willie X)

    Ok, I've been to school on this baby now. I didn't know they would run for 12 1/4 days. If anyone has difficulty getting the cable set up I have all the proper notes.

    It is a straightforward replacement, as Harrold suggested, IF, repeat IIIFFFF, the cable drum and the traveler have not been separated or misadjusted previously. Just remove the stop-work, pull out the old cable, wind the new one on (1 1/2 turns) adjust the bottom stop to this position. and carefully wind her up and down a few times to make sure that all is good.

    Tip, it only takes about two minutes to let down and remove both spring barrels. Then you can see what you are doing!

    Take care all, Willie X

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