escapement question

[ecross]

Hello,
This is my first post to this site after joining the NACWW. I have a Bundy time recorder with a well worn verge. The palets have grooves worn in them. My question is, when replacing the verge, do I have to replace the entire escapement mechanism or can I just replace the verge. I am very much a novice at clock repair and I am trying to learn as I go.
Thank you for your time.

[LaBounty]

Hi Ecross and welcome to the Message Board!

Your pallets can have the wear ground and polished out, then can be adjusted for locks and drops. It isn't necessary to replace them.

However, to answer your question... No, you don't need to replace the escape wheel when replacing an anchor.

Regards,

[Willie X]

ecro,

I usually study the situation carefully and determine if the verge and/or the escape wheel can be moved laterly about 1/16 inch. This will put a brand new surface in play with no downside that I am aware off.

Changing parts in a newer movement is great, when the factory replacement parts are available, but changing/making replacements parts for an older clock can be very frustrating for a beginner (or experienced repairer). So, in my book anyway, always look closely to see if the above method can be used to good effect.

Good luck, Willie X

[sandcastcb750]

I had worn pallets on a verge to a tall case clock. Sometimes it would skip two teeth because the escape wheel had teeth at slightly different heights and the slipped through the grooves of the pallet.

I was able the remove the verge and solder new steel faces on the pallets using steel feeler gages as shims from the auto parts store. I believe that I used a 0.006" thick feeler that I was able to cut with scissors slightly larger than I needed.

The fun starts when you have to file down the material to make the verge/escape function together again. It will take many repeat hand filings to get it right.

I made the pallets a little wider because there was slight mis-alignment between the verge and escape wheel. I was afraid of breaking the parts re-aligning them and this was an easy fix.

Now the clock works fine.

I am not a clock expert. However, this was done easily with only a file, soldering iron and steel shims with my minimum skills. It is fun to accomplish something by yourself.

[ecross]

Thank you for the responses.
I now have to evaluate the digest the different suggestions. At least I have something that may give me the result that I am looking for.
Thank you again

[harold bain]

Post a few pictures of your clock. Always like to see the old time recorders.

[shutterbug]

I'm always curious, so will ask the reason for your question. Is the clock having problems? Often, newbies get focused on the impulse part of clocks and overlook more serious problems elsewhere. Most clocks can run with pretty deep grooves in the anchor, although their efficiency is greatly compromised. So, what's the story?

[ecross]

The reason that I believe that I may need to replace the verge is the clock, when wound to full power, will skip a couple to teeth on the escapement wheel and create a small burr on the teeth. I have tried to set the verge deeper into the wheel as suggested by other members of the NACWW prior to me joining. This caused the clock to stop. I tried many times to adust the verge and either the clock stopped or it skipped teeth and the clock gained time quickly. I now only wind the clock to half power and this seems to work out OK. I am concerned that if I don't fix the problem it will lead to bigger problems. I am new at working on clocks although I am learning. A few months ago I totally dismantled a dial recorder movement and the recorder itself. I cleaned it and reassembled it. I replaced a couple of parts and this is when I took interest in repairing my clocks only. I learned allot but I still know very little and I am trying to learn. It is one thing to take something apart and put it back together, it is another thing to understand how they work and what makes them run. This is what I am trying to learn now.
I will try to add a couple of pics of my clocks.

Attachment 86442

Attachment 86443

[harold bain]

I had a similar problem with my Stromberg master clock, and found the cure to be closing the distance between the pallets. But, there wasn't any noticable wear on the pallets. I think you may find refacing the pallets easier than making a new anchor.

[shutterbug]

Your attachments don't seem to work.

[bangster]

Work for me.

[Scottie-TX]

Here: These work too.

[Scottie-TX]

I'd be in favor of resurfacing the pallets and adjusting to compensate for the loss of material.
I would send the movement to LABOUNTY and let him make it near perfect.

[ecross]

Thank you again for the suggestions. I am always open to input. I will try to resurface the grooved areas first with a small flat hone and then try to adjust it to work better. If anyone thinks this is wrong I appreciate that input as well. I need to hear all sides to help me learn something. I have learned things the hard way and I want to improve my abilities to repair something without taking steps backwards. But this is sometimes the way for me to learn.
I will try to include a couple of pics of the dial recorder that I restored. Although it doesn't show allot, it does show the before and after condition.

[Scottie-TX]

Are these adjustable pallets? Can they be moved? If not, after resurfacing pallets it is often necessary to close the gap between them. Often, this means bending the pallet arms.