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  1. #1
    alliemarie
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Hi Scottie, I was told you are the man to ask about my problem with my vienna regulator! Hopefully, my problem centers around my clock being moved (believe me, without my permission).(I don't know the correct terms for all I am getting ready to describe so please bear with me.) I removed the weight and raised the click. It seemed to have gotten tangled so I tried veryyyyyyy carefully to put a little pressure on the cable to get it to unwind. It didn't want to seem to go so I slid the end of the cable through the hook attached to the little wheel (the thing the weight hangs from)...and carefully unwound the cable from the "roller" that it usually rewinds on. Put the cable end with the knot back thru the hanger and hooked it on the hook where it origonally hooked. I put the weight back on and wound the clock. It still won't stay running. The only question I have (that I may be capable of doing) concerns the roller that the cable winds onto. I'm wondering if I didn't get it(the roller) to get back to the origonal "winding" position since I took the cable off and untangled it rather than just letting it come down with the weight or with pressure by hand? I may be dreaming but it seems like one time (a long time ago) that there was something that I pushed in to get that to release....have I gone looney tunes or is that possible? All of the wheels look good and straight and don't seem to have any damage. I would appreciate any thoughts you have as to possibly why it won't keep running. It sounds good when it starts out and quickly quits. Thanks for any help, alliemarie

  2. #2
    alliemarie
    Guest

    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator

    Hi Scottie, I was told you are the man to ask about my problem with my vienna regulator! Hopefully, my problem centers around my clock being moved (believe me, without my permission).(I don't know the correct terms for all I am getting ready to describe so please bear with me.) I removed the weight and raised the click. It seemed to have gotten tangled so I tried veryyyyyyy carefully to put a little pressure on the cable to get it to unwind. It didn't want to seem to go so I slid the end of the cable through the hook attached to the little wheel (the thing the weight hangs from)...and carefully unwound the cable from the "roller" that it usually rewinds on. Put the cable end with the knot back thru the hanger and hooked it on the hook where it origonally hooked. I put the weight back on and wound the clock. It still won't stay running. The only question I have (that I may be capable of doing) concerns the roller that the cable winds onto. I'm wondering if I didn't get it(the roller) to get back to the origonal "winding" position since I took the cable off and untangled it rather than just letting it come down with the weight or with pressure by hand? I may be dreaming but it seems like one time (a long time ago) that there was something that I pushed in to get that to release....have I gone looney tunes or is that possible? All of the wheels look good and straight and don't seem to have any damage. I would appreciate any thoughts you have as to possibly why it won't keep running. It sounds good when it starts out and quickly quits. Thanks for any help, alliemarie

  3. #3
    Registered user.
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Allie,
    Im not Scottie by any stretch of the imagination! But, is the clock in beat? In other words are the ticks even, tic...tic...tic... as opposed to tic.....tic..tic.....tic..tic.....
    If the clock was move this may be the only problem you have.
    Move the bottom of the case to one side or the other to see if the tick evens out and it runs longer.

    good luck!

  4. #4
    Registered User Scottie-TX's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    ALLIE, I am indeed flattered that you addressed your problem to me and, "yes" I do collect and restore viennas but let's open this up to ALL on the forum. There certainly are MANY here more adept - more capable and knowledgeable than I. As Mr. "E" recommends: Make CERTAIN your clock is in beat. That is utmost in Viennas. I seriously doubt that there is a problem with the winding drum and how the cord is dressed onto it so long as it doesn't snag or is not impeded in any way along it's travel path. Most walls are not perpendicular. Make certain the bob is not touching the case back and the weight doesn't touch the pendulum bob. Make certain there is adequate clearance as the hands pass each other. A minute hand bumping into an hour hand will stop it. There. There's a few to keep you busy for awhile. OTHERS! Please contribute. This is not MY topic.

  5. #5
    alliemarie
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Phil, Big D, and Scottie, Thanks for all of the responses. One other thing I forgot to mention and I hope this won't complicate the process: the face of the clock is now a little off center...the 12 is a little to the left of where it should be. Should I start with getting this back to where it should be or work on getting it in beat first? Thanks.

  6. #6
    alliemarie
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Phil, Crutch pin is engaged. By spring, do you mean the cable that the weight hangs from? When I look at the weight and the wheel above that it hooks to, (I am directly in front of the clock) the wheel is not perfectly parallel to me....In other words, when I stand at the side of the clock part of the cable seems to be toward the front and part appears toward the back....this may be what is making the wheel not look exactly straight when I am in front of the clock. Does this make any sense? I didn't know if this makes any difference, or not, but thought I would mention just mention it. How long is the clock going to have to run before I will notice the weight beginning to move down?
    Thanks, alliemarie

  7. #7
    alliemarie
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Phil, ps clock seems to be in beat.....for as long as it runs! alliemarie

  8. #8
    Registered User Scottie-TX's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Great! Progress perhaps. Did you move it some to put it into beat or is that how you found it - in beat? No. The position or angle of the pulley - that's what that wheelie thing's called - is not critical. Generally the hook for the free end of the cord is attached to the movement or the seatboard if it has a seatboard. You can understand that if the hook is not parallel to the winding drum, the pulley won't be parallel to the movement. Also there will be some variation during winding and unwinding. As the cord travels across the drum it's parallel relationship with respect to the hook changes - further - closer. So perhaps when it's fully wound it's angle may be much more than fully unwound. Not a problem.

  9. #9
    alliemarie
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Scottietx: Great news about the cable. In order for it to be in beat I have to move it to the left....right won't do it. Sounds great for a short while and then stops.
    alliemarie

  10. #10
    Registered User Scottie-TX's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    ". . . move it": Move "it" the cable or move "it" the clock case. The position of the cable so long as it is not catching, snagging, piling up on itself, etc. SHOULD have no effect on the beat of your clock. Is this movement mounted to a seatboard with bolts beneath or to four posts with keyhole slots in rear movement plate?

  11. #11
    alliemarie
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Scottietx, I can remove the clock by loosening a screw (should be 2..one on the left and one on the right.. but I'm missing the one on the right, need to order it) and sliding it forward...does that answer the question? This is exactly the way it was when I purchased it and it worked perfectly, but I would like to have the extra screw to make it complete. I want to understand "exactly" what you are saying and telling me; you probably think I'm a bozo......truthfully, I am, just work with me.
    alliemarie

  12. #12
    Registered User Scottie-TX's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Oh O.K. So a seatboard - the type that slides in and out on two channels and the side bolts secure it in position. I might have bad news. I hope someone tells me I'm wrong but I don't think you'll be able to order another screw. If I had one I'd give it to you. We'll get back to that later. Don't let me forget. No, what I was asking was how you got it into beat when it was in beat. How did you do that? At some point here it may become necessary to remove the movement and fasten it to a test fixture. That's why I asked how it was mounted - foreseeing that. Now I don't know whether you feel up to that but it would proceed like this: Remove the movement and the bracket that holds it from the case. Remove the pendulum suspension post and attach both the bracket and post to a chunka scrap wood pre-drilled to hang on a wall. Then you'd re-install the movement to the bracket, hang the pendulum, and commence further testing and observation outside the case.

  13. #13
    Registered user. RJSoftware's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Hello allie;

    Hey when I stated that you should talk to Scottie about your vienna I meant private message him (pm him).

    Anyway, here is what I gather from your replies.

    First of all the cable when winding on the drum seems to not be an issue.

    Next your movement should be firmly attached in the clock case. The seatboard if held on by screws should be firm enough so the movement stays level with level clock.

    What happens much of the time is the clock movement gets taken out and put back in so many times, that the screws won't hold in the back of the case.

    A quick fix is to insert small pieces of tooth picks into the case holes, so screw has something to grab on. Cut small pieces off of tooth pick and insert.

    But only do that if the screws don't seem to be holding well enough to keep the clock works level in the case.

    The next issue is to test your clock to see if it is in beat.

    This is easy to do. All you do is simply hang your clock up on wall as normal.

    First you have to remove your clock hands and dial. Store the parts in safe place to avoid loosing. A small plastic bag helps.

    Once you have that, with clock wound, start the pendulum swinging. And listen to the beat of the clock.

    Me, I have a mechanical stethoscope I bought cheap on ebay. But you might not need this. Having the dial off helps to hear real quiet tick-tocks. Putting ear to case also helps.

    At one time I had my 5 year old's play stethoscope (no lie) and it actually worked to pick up sound. Hey, whatever works.

    Listen to your clock's tick-tock. You want a tick-tock that is evenly spaced.

    What you do is simply lean the clock case a few degrees in one direction or the other and listen.

    (I take it that you have only 1 screw holding your clock up at the top. If you have support at bottom, don't use it. Basically you must lean the clock left or right pushing the bottom of the clock only a few degrees either way).

    When you lean the clock listen and see if the tick-tock rate changes for the better. One direction tends to stop right away, while the other increases speed. Increase in speed is good.

    If you absolutley can't hear the tick-tock. Note that leaning one way or other should last longer and quite possibly not stop at all.

    If your clock improves in one direction, not only will the tick-tocks evenly space out they will also increase in speed.

    When you establish which direction to tilt the clock (left or right) and how far. Note which side is the high side. (Which bottom edge is highest)

    The high side will be the side that you bend the crutch wire toward.

    The crutch wire is the wire that pushes the pendulum. You want to give the crutch a small tweak of a bend toward the high side.

    The ideal is bend/test bend/test etc. Until you get the best beat you can. Remember real small bends. Bend crutch somewhere in middle.

    Keep in mind that some cructches are more mechanical. But principle is same. You basically adjust in the desired direction.

    I now remember that you have a more mechanical crutch type arrangement.

    See second picture.
    old ref::http://nawcc-mb.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/4166015461/m/3091002212/p/2

    The wire that is connected to the metal object on the 1st image is what I have been talking about as the 'crutch wire'. But you do not have the 'crutch wire'.

    The metal object of the 1st pic that the wire is connected to is called the verge. The verge has 2 blades called palettes.

    On mechanical crutch like yours. You usually have to hold the verge with one hand and push the crutch bar to the high side. You can hold the verge palettes againts the escape wheel(gear) firmly to help hold in place while you tweak the adjustment.

    That is part of how you put the clock into beat. Often times the only thing needed. Especially in circumstances such as you described. The main culprit of this is moving the clock without first taking the pendulum bob off first. This is because the weight of the bob can actually push the crutch out of whack when swinging arround wild when moving clock.

    The remaining part of this 'in beat' tune up you can takle later if what I described above does not help.

    That part simply involves setting the depth of your clock's verge.

    Let me know.
    RJ
    Caution: The following link is for entertainment purposes only.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9Kw8oKh94M

  14. #14
    Registered User Scottie-TX's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Let me interject respectfully: Viennas don't have a crutch wire and only those with movable pallets are adjustable. None can be adjusted for drop without an eccentric anchor bushing or re-bushing.

  15. #15
    Registered user. RJSoftware's Avatar
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    Default scottietx:1 wt. vienna regulator (RE: alliemarie)

    Hey Scottie;

    Yes, but you can still adjust the mechanical crutch in left/right direction by pushing crutch bar.

    The crutch bar is connected to the verge from a friction fit. True?

    Anyway, I was trying to avoid confusion about adjusting the depth. As you say some have no depth adjustment.

    My thinking is that she can learn that part later if needed.

    For now she can tweak the crutch bar left or right depending on which side provides best results from leaning. All she needs to do is hold the verge still and push crutch bar in best direction.

    RJ
    Caution: The following link is for entertainment purposes only.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9Kw8oKh94M

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