Keeping brass beautiful?

[Ken M]

Will lacquering keep the brass nice? I've polished, washed, waxed, and in a couple weeks, it's pitting and discoloring. I've tried some off the shelf aerosol lacquer, but it looks satiny. I want to give one of my clocks to a friend, but I don't want it looking 100 years old two weeks after I give it to her!

[Ingulphus]

You didn't specify what type of wax you've used; I've had good luck with those with a very high carnauba content. A final clean with a soft clean rag and acetone is necessary just prior to applying the wax, to ensure all traces of polish, finger oils, etc. are completely removed.

Another option is an aerosol lacquer made by G.J. Nikolas & Co - it has a slight gold tint to it, goes on almost invisibly (two or three light coats) and dries quickly. I believe its primary use if for retouching the lacquer on band instruments. Their website is: http://www.finish1.com/page_home.htm

[Ken M]

Thanks for the tips. I emailed that company asking where I can find that lacquer. I might have cleaned it with paint thinner instead of acetone last time.

[Jahresuhren]

Hi, would you apply the wax with high carnauba content in the plates, of just in the base and pilars?

[Ken M]

Well, I've applied wax to the plates too, and got into trouble. Some wax got into the pivot holes and the clock wouldn't run. I thought I cleaned them well enough, but I didn't. Someone (Ming I think) said he used toothpick's in the holes. I have toothpicks now! But even after waxing, after a couple weeks, the brass started going bad. I've tried lacquering a couple times, but was unsuccessful. I'm trying a new method, I should be getting the stuff in the mail today or tomorrow. If it works as advertised, it will be great. I'll post when I have a verdict.

[whatgoesaround]

Once in this forum I read where someone was using Formby's Tung Oil and I gave that a try. I have used it on my last two projects and was very satisfied with the results.

[John Hubby]

Well, I've applied wax to the plates too, and got into trouble. Some wax got into the pivot holes and the clock wouldn't run. I thought I cleaned them well enough, but I didn't. Someone (Ming I think) said he used toothpick's in the holes. I have toothpicks now! But even after waxing, after a couple weeks, the brass started going bad. I've tried lacquering a couple times, but was unsuccessful. I'm trying a new method, I should be getting the stuff in the mail today or tomorrow. If it works as advertised, it will be great. I'll post when I have a verdict.

Ken, I will look forward to your report on the new product/method. Regarding a wax finish however, if the brass starts going bad after a couple of weeks something is wrong. My experience is that waxed brass will last up to 10 years without significant deterioration if it isn't placed in direct sunlight for any length of time or it will turn brown, just the same as a lacquer finish. I use the following steps:

• First be sure ALL the original lacquer is gone.
• Polish the brass part using a good paste polish such as Peek, Dursol, Maas, SimiChrome, etc.
• Buff the polish off, then wash the part thoroughly with acetone to ensure ALL polish residue is removed. Using any hydrocarbon product such as kerosene or gasoline is not recommended as they will leave an invisible film that will trap air and result in mottling of the brass. Handle with white cotton gloves after washing.
• Wax the part using soft cloth and a good high carnauba paste wax: Renaissance Art Wax, Mother's Car Formula, Brother's Bowling Alley Lane Wax are the top three I've used. Any wax with more than 70% carnauba content will work.
• Let the first coat dry, buff with a soft clean cotton cloth such as a used T-shirt.
• Apply a second coat repeating the waxing and buffing steps above, then if the part is handled frequently (such as the base or movement columns) apply a third coat. ALWAYS let dry completely between coats, final buff will leave the part with a high sheen and a finish that can be handled with bare hands and won't leave fingerprints (I still use cotton gloves to handle until the clock is reassembled and ready to set on the shelf).

Finally, if you decide to wax the movement plates (I normally don't, they are protected inside the dome or case), be sure to thoroughly peg all the pivot holes and other holes to remove any accumulated wax.

Follow this and you will get a really great finish with very little effort, and no worry about the orange peeling or running associated with lacquer finishes, especially those using spray cans. The finish is completely reversible and redone if needed, as acetone easily removes the wax.

[Ken M]

Thanks John, very useful information. I'm not sure where I've gone wrong on the waxing process, possibly the cleaning and drying, quality of wax (Turtle wax?). I know this is not a place to advertise, but I did try a different product called ProtectaClear from a company called Everbright, you can find them on the internet. They do not sell in retail stores. The information they provide appears to be accurate. Easily applied and dries to a mirror finish. As with any finish, keeping it off moving parts is important.

[Ken M]

Just to add a note. This stuff is great for a poor old hobbyist like myself, but if you want a clock that looks like the ones Les has posted, well, I don't know how to do that!

[lesbradley]

Just to add a note. This stuff is great for a poor old hobbyist like myself, but if you want a clock that looks like the ones Les has posted, well, I don't know how to do that!

Keep trying Ken. Just takes care and patience and the right equipment and materials. Read my earlier posts, or I will give you a full description of my processes if you can't find it.

Regards, Les

[Ken M]

Thanks Les, another post would be helpful. Equipment and supplies is the sticking part. This works for now, but the nice thing about old brass is there always seems to be room for improvement

[lesbradley]

Thanks Les, another post would be helpful. Equipment and supplies is the sticking part. This works for now, but the nice thing about old brass is there always seems to be room for improvement

I am a hobbyist like you, but I have an engineering/modelmaking history. I started using minimalist/basic/techniques/materials but soon realised that these were very labour intensive and required exactly the right materials and a lot of patience and elbow grease.
I do have clocks that I restored, satisfactorily in my opinion at that time, in my early days at this hobby that will require a re-finish. I believe I now have a reasonable compromise, but it required some investment to reduce the labour content.

To do a good restore of any lacquered brass clock component(s) requires removal of the original finish.
This can be achieved in several ways. Some are more effective than others depending on the applied finish and the original materials involved.

I do have a bench polisher for stubborn bases/cases.

Long soaking in acetone will remove most lacquers, but not all. With early clock bases this is rarely a practical solution due to the wood insert. I use a caustic soda based paint/lacquer stripper applied with a stiff brush. This sometimes takes several hits to remove all old traces of lacquer. Ingulphus swares by alum, haven't tried it due to lack of availability in UK.

All parts, other than a wood insert base, I give one or more cycles in an ultrasonic cleaner, using a solvent based solution.

To polish the small brass parts and shafts/pivots I use a fine brass wire brush, sometimes mechanical rotary if stubborn.

I have used vinegar solution to remove corrosion from steel.

Polishing the major brass components requires a good quality paste polish. There are plenty mentioned on this site, my current choice is Peek. Expect to do at least three cleans/polishes before you are able to go further.

Now remove the polish with a good solvent, acetone is best.

Lacquering is the old way to preserve the finish but I and many others prefer good quality wax. Forget Turtle or any proprietary polish. You need serious protection. High carnuba content(70%) is a must, my preference is Renaissance. Several coats are necessary to preserve, but they dry very quickly when its warm.

I do polish front and back plates and clean out bushes with cocktail sticks and acetone. Cotton gloves are a must for handling components after cleaning/during polishing and re-assembly.

A good, long lasting finish still requires the right attention.

Hope I haven't overloaded you Ken.

Regards, Les

[Ken M]

Thanks Les, I keep a log of clock notes, yours has been added. Preparing the brass I think is my biggest problem. I'll get it figured out some day. I'd like to go over all my clocks with this new stuff, but jeez, that's a lot of work! And I'll probably want to do it again when I learn more...never ends, a great hobby for a perfectionist, huh?

[Jahresuhren]

Special thanks to John and Les for the clear and comprehensive teachings, now I have the information I was looking for, and I feel confident to initiate my first project.
Joao

[Ken M]

An update to my Protectaclear experiment. After working with this product on a few items, I've come to the conclusion that a good waxing, as per Johns post on this thread, would be much more satisfactory. The product follows the contour of the brass, so unless the brass is buffed really well before application, imperfections are evident on close inspection. A wax would fill the imperfections allowing for a much better final surface. I'm going to give the "good" wax a go on my next project. Incorporating the process provided by Les should produce an exceptional end product. Thanks to John and Les