Antiquing Brass Parts

[Chris]

I second that emotion!!! Cheap, quick and enlightening (hehe)!

[Jeff C]

Great idea with the heat Sooth. I tried it on a new Bezel I have to go on an old mantle clock and the results were quite satisfying.

[Sooth]

Thanks guys!

[bangster]

Hey Sooth, a question: Would a candle flame work as well as a kerosene flame? Or not hot enough?

bangster

[Sooth]

It might work, but maybe not as well. You'd have to try it.

Also, you could try an alcohol lamp, which may give a different effect (no black marks).

I'm still experimenting with the technique, since I've only used it twice.

[shutterbug]

If you've burned kerosene lamps much, you'll notice that if the flame is too high (wick is turned to high) the black smoke will darken the glass mantle. I think this characteristic of kerosene is what Sooth is using for his darkening idea, not the heat.

[RJSoftware]

You can always urinate in a cup and set parts in it over night. Oldtimers use to do that long ago.

It makes a funky smell and an odd foamy broth. (Excuse me a moment, I have to take a sip of my coffee)

Ahhh, good to the last drop.

, but the smell is easily washed off next day.

Turns the brass dark.

RJ
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[Sooth]

Shutterbug: Not really. The soot does stick a little bit to the brass, but 90% of it gets rubbed off when you clean it.

I think it's mostly the intense heat that does the change in colour, and partially the soot.

I noticed that even on parts that did not get any soot (I did some brass washers), the brass still darkens on the back side.

[Sooth]

RJ: Though I know this trick MAY work (I've heard it works on copper), EWW!

[RJSoftware]

Pooring little pieces out of the cup gets a bit messy. Might as well use your fingers and dig in. I mean after all it come out of ya.

Besides it's how you say, au-natural...

AND cheap!
AND I got pleanty!

RJ
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[Ditto Designs]

Due to the type of work that we do, we find that we have to match a variety of "old" surfaces, ie antique copper, bronze, verdigris. The best all around solution (so to speak) are products from Sculpt Nouveau > ww.sculptnouveau.com. This outfit provides products to architects and commercial artisans.
They have a variety of products, that are acid / non-acid, heat/no heat, liquid or gels.
Some are true chemical treatments, some are coatings to be used with an etch.
One of the products that we use quite often is Birchwood Casey, and as a gel it works quickly and evenly, and can be used as a base under another treatment if required. And the plus is they sell in small quantities.
Mike

[Sooth]

My newest technique for antiquing very stubborn (or larger) pieces, is to suspend it above hot ammonia. The fumes will quickly darken the brass and the look is quite natural, like a true patina. The major drawback is that the fumes are nauseating, and fill a room quite quickly. Use as much ventilation as possible.

[DevineTime]

My newest technique for antiquing very stubborn (or larger) pieces, is to suspend it above hot ammonia. The fumes will quickly darken the brass and the look is quite natural, like a true patina. The major drawback is that the fumes are nauseating, and fill a room quite quickly. Use as much ventilation as possible.

Apologies for the thread revival! (some good tips here)

With regard restored polished brass using this or similar method to age, was wondering if any further process is required to maintain/protect the antiqued effect.

[Scottie-TX]

No need to apologize for resurrection of a great topic as others probably encounter this often.
My much lesser acceptable procedure will be less popular because of it's caustic nature and higher potential for toxicity and health issues. I use lye. NaOH or most commonly, "DRANO" . I mix up a VERY strong batch, toss in the parts, cover container, and remove when satisfied. Estimated time a few hours to several days.
No, you don't need to protect tarnished finish as metals have an inherent propensity to oxidize, left alone.

[JB]

I use a product called Novacan "Black Patina" contains HNO3 it works great for brass and solder. Found it at my nearest stained glass shop. I diluted it and dip the parts in solution for a short period of time. For smaller areas I just brush on the concentrated solution then polish to suit.