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  1. #1

    Default Early New Haven electric westminster chime

    Hi guys...

    Anyone know where I can get the motor for above clock replaced? I am told just the field coil may be bad -- anyone know where I can get a replacement for that?
    I've tried to attach a picture.

    Regards,



    TonyR.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails clock pix 159.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Early New Haven electric westminster chime (RE: TonyR)

    Get it rewound, Tony, if you cannot find one. No need to replace the entire motor.
    You should be able to find someone that rewinds small transformers and motors.
    Is the coil definitely open circuit? A cheap £5 meter will tell you, and it is an essential tool if you are doing much with electric clocks.
    Mike - banned member of the throwaway society.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Early New Haven electric westminster chime (RE: TonyR)

    Tony,
    You don't need a meter to test the field coil. Just apply power to motor and hold a screwdriver near the gap in the pole pieces opposite the coil and you should feel the 60 cycle pulses in the screwdriver. If none are felt the coil is bad or you have a poor connection in the power cord somewhere.

  4. #4

    Default Re: Early New Haven electric westminster chime (RE: TonyR)

    Hi, guys...

    With your help, sometimes I feel I can cure a rainy day. Found loose wire in coil and fixed it and -- voila -- the motor runs.
    Now for the rest of the movement. It's a New Haven, as I mentioned, with those curious mini springs in mini semi-barrells held on the same shaft and continually wound by the clock motor -- one spring does chime, the other strike.
    What's the correct procedure for removing and overhauling these? As they are designed to slip continuously, how do you lubricate them, if at all? Any and all advice appreciated greatly.

    Regards,


    TonyR.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Early New Haven electric westminster chime (RE: TonyR)

    Tony
    Good result - mine usually have green spot corrosion on the coils.

    The springs have to slip, otherwise the motor would be stalled.
    The removal, cleaning, lubrication and replacement is the same as any other spring in a barrel.

    I am not au fait with this particular movement, but it seems like an early Smiths synch 3-train. In that case, the springs are quite small and thin, so I would use oil rather than grease. Remember that the barrel arbor is running continuously rather than just once a week in a "normal" clock, so there might be more wear in that area.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry
    Tony,
    You don't need a meter to test the field coil. Just apply power to motor and hold a screwdriver near the gap in the pole pieces opposite the coil and you should feel the 60 cycle pulses in the screwdriver. If none are felt the coil is bad or you have a poor connection in the power cord somewhere.
    Absolutely right, Jerry - I should have mentioned it.
    I do think a cheap meter is a useful thing, though. I have about 5 of them scattered around the house and cars, and a "proper" AVO 8 as well.
    It would determine where the break was - fuse, mains lead or coil. As would a battery and bulb.
    Mike - banned member of the throwaway society.

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