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  1. #16

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: Time After Time)

    I started out with KWM bushings, never saw any reason to change. My first purchase was Timesavers assortment 11604. Lasted a long time.

    My mainspring winder is a Joe Collins. Instructions for making one are in the Repair Hints forum.
    1. Check out the Repair Hints & How-To's forum. You may find your answer there.

  2. #17

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed

    Regarding your current lack of space, I fasten my spring winder to the bench temporarily with C-Clamps. Once you have a spring winder, I doubt that you'll have a need for the small, hand-held contraption but I've never used one so I can't say with any certainty. Seeing that you can use the clock movement itself to wind open springs I would suggest that it would be an unnecessary expense and would eventually become a waste of space in your tool box/shop.


  3. #18

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: Time After Time)

    I use Bergeon bushings simply because I bought their roughly 20 sizes starter box when I first started. If I had it to do over, I'd probably go with KWM
    A man with a clock always knows the time. A man with two clocks is never sure.

  4. #19

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: Time After Time)

    Yep. But it's cheap, and will work for now.

    Is what I think.
    1. Check out the Repair Hints & How-To's forum. You may find your answer there.

  5. #20

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed

    Quote Originally Posted by bangster View Post
    Yep. But it's cheap, and will work for now.

    Is what I think.
    Okay, won't argue with those points ....but....if one can use the Movement itself, how cheap is it, really?


  6. #21
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Brockville, On Canada
    Posts
    5,682

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bikerclockguy)

    Biker something that I haven't seem mentioned is a small bench vise. My main go to, use all the time, is a small machinist vise. It has flat smooth parallel jaws with both a vertical "V" and horizontal "V" in the fixed jaw that is extremely useful for hold round stock without using a lot of clamping pressure.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	2012_0118bench0003.JPG 
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    David
    David S

  7. #22
    Forums Administrator harold bain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Whitby, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    39,826

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: R&A)

    Quote Originally Posted by R&A View Post
    It works perfect for what I use it for. But why would you ask this.Oh are you getting a funny. Plus if you look, this movement that I posted about Doesn't have barrel. But I have a Bergeon spring winder, if that satisfies your curiosity. And works well , but also has it's limitation just like any winder.
    So this Bergeon winder won't work with loop end springs? Just asking, I have no experience with it.
    harold bain, Member ch 33
    "If it won't "tick",
    let me "tock" to it"

  8. #23

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed

    Yes, by all means, a vise. One of mine (I have accumulated several) is a small clamp-onto-the-bench vise with 3" jaws. I park it down at the far end of the bench,
    bring it over in front of me to use, then move it back out of the way.
    1. Check out the Repair Hints & How-To's forum. You may find your answer there.

  9. #24

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bikerclockguy)

    Yep, you just have to have at least two good vises. One small one, I use an old ball mounted Pan-a-vise with nylon jaws. And a big honking Ridge all steel vise. I couldn't do without either.
    Willie X

  10. #25

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bangster)

    I've seen the "C" restraint clamps for mainsprings, and that will definitely be part of my initial tool order. I hadn't seen a mention of C-clamps to rebush(other than my own); just looking for a little advice from guys who learned the hard way. I will probably try both a C-clamp press-in operation and a tap-in job to see which I like better. The C-clamp is what my instincts are telling me to use, if nothing else than to get the bushing seated correctly before tapping it in. I'll know better when I get started

  11. #26

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed

    Try parallel-jaw pliers. Bushing Using Hand Tools
    Last edited by bangster; 08-11-2017 at 12:48 PM.
    1. Check out the Repair Hints & How-To's forum. You may find your answer there.

  12. #27
    Registered User wow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Pineville, La. (central La.)
    Posts
    2,035

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bikerclockguy)

    Biker, a set of these are a must. I use them every day.
    http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...2e3cd_1000.jpg
    Will Walker (WOW)

  13. #28

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bikerclockguy)

    Best thing to press in bushings is a press. ☺ You can get a decent arbor press (1/2 to 1 ton) for about 30 bucks.
    You will also need a drill press. Get one with a sturdy table and you can use it to press in your bushings.
    Willie X

  14. #29

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bangster)

    Quote Originally Posted by bangster View Post
    Biker: Have you read this? Bushing Using Hand Tools

    i read it, and it changed my life... highly recommended.

    i also went with kwm bushings but am a hobbyist mostly working on my own clocks.
    i collect antique clocks because i get all that extra time...

  15. #30

    Default Re: Tool and equipment pointers needed (By: bangster)

    Awesome article, especially using the cross-hairs to center the bushing placement. I bought a Dremel tool and drill press type adapter to hold it, so I can get true 90-degree angles at my kitchen table, but the cross-hair trick alone mad it worth the read. I do have a question though. The very last instruction in the article says "Broach and smooth the bush to fit the pivot" Why wouldn't you just use a bushing with an ID that fit the pivot in the first place? I know the ODs are different to accommodate different bushing hole requirements, but aren't the pivots pretty much standardized?

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