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Thread: Hauck clock

  1. #16
    Registered user. Nicko's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Tinker Dwight)

    OK then,
    The procedure is to adjust the drops and then the locks. How do I know when the drops are correct? What is the end result that am supposed to be looking for here. The guide says to raise or lower the pivot hole to increase or decrease the drop. What is the end point of the adjustment for drops i.e. what should I see when is it right.

    Cheers

  2. #17
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Nicko)

    Quote Originally Posted by Nicko View Post
    OK then,
    The procedure is to adjust the drops and then the locks. How do I know when the drops are correct? What is the end result that am supposed to be looking for here. The guide says to raise or lower the pivot hole to increase or decrease the drop. What is the end point of the adjustment for drops i.e. what should I see when is it right.

    Cheers
    Hi Nicko, Since your clock acentric pivot has been changed, you can do some experiments with it. You can raise it up or down to see the net effect. Of course, make a mark before you do the experiments, so you can adjust it back to the original point before the adjustments. If you have a Schatz mini clock such as London Couch, you can easily do your experiments on it. This clock acentric pivot can be change easily. After you have done all the experiments, you will learn a lot and the experience willl remain in you for a long tine. Do not afraid to make mistakes, with patience, you will get it right eventurally.
    My experience is that as long as the EW teeth drop on the locking face 1mm or so (first moment landing point) from the transition point (corner between impulse face and locking face), the clock will work fine.
    You can also follow the guide table from RG 10th edition page 47. I did not follow it very well, but it may help you. I value more of experiments.
    Ming

  3. #18
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    Default Re: Hauck clock

    Quote Originally Posted by Nicko View Post
    OK then,
    The procedure is to adjust the drops and then the locks. How do I know when the drops are correct? What is the end result that am supposed to be looking for here. The guide says to raise or lower the pivot hole to increase or decrease the drop. What is the end point of the adjustment for drops i.e. what should I see when is it right.

    Cheers
    Unlike recoil escapements adjusting the drops by moving the depth
    adjust both drops at the same time and by about the same amount
    but in opposite directions.
    On a recoil it adjust mostly the exit drop onto the entrance pallet only
    and has little effect on the entrance drop.
    It is best to do this with little or no power in the spring. A split second
    of spinning the escapement wheel at full speed into loose pallets well
    bend the escapement wheel badly.
    Drop is the distance that a tooth falls onto the lock of the next pallet.
    These are so small you have to use a magnifier. There is what I call
    inside drop and outside drop. Inside drop is where the entrance
    pallet lets go of the escapement and it lands on the lock of the exit pallet.
    Outside drop is where the drop is off the exit pallet and the escapement tooth
    lands on the entrance pallet's lock.
    As you adjust this, it is possible that you'll see it miss the lock and land
    on the impulse face.
    This may mean that you need to move the pallet on the anchor down more
    to allow adjustment of the drops to land on lock surfaces.
    When adjusting and looking at one side, only adjust 1/2 the distance you think
    you need. This is because it is kind of like robbing Peter to pay Paul.
    As you open up the drop on one side, the drop on the other will reduce by the
    same amount.
    This is the nature of deadbeat escapements.
    Lowering the anchor opens up the inside drop while reducing the outside drop.
    Raising the anchor reduces the inside drop while increasing the outside drop.
    Once the drops are set, don't fiddle with it again. It should never need adjustment.

    Unlike most deadbeats, it is difficult to adjust the locks on these clocks because of
    the windup of the spring above the fork.
    On a regular deadbeat, you can set pallet depth by sliding the pallets in their
    mounts, on the anchor, statically. By this I mean you can move the anchor
    manually and watch where is lands on the next pallet. The only trick is to
    have them about the same amount out of the anchor to make beat setting easy.
    On these, if you set the lock this way, you will miss the lock surface and
    and land on the impulse, every time.
    The way I like to do it is first set the lever, exactly straight up. By this I
    mean exactly or at least exactly the same for each pallet.
    I do this by holding the lever up and putting a small dot one each plate at the
    edge with a sharpie pen. I want it so that if I site along the closer dot to the
    lever and the other dot, they are, all three, right in line. Use one eye only for this.
    When it is like this and there is light tension on the escapement wheel,
    one of the teeth of the escapement will, or should be, on the impulse face.
    It should have traveled about 1/3 the way across the impulse face.
    One then move the lever to let it escape to the other pallet.
    Carefully move the lever to exactly the same place by aligning the lever
    and the dots. Now look at where the tooth is on that pallet. It should be
    1/3 in its direction of travel as well. Adjust the pallets to achieve this
    1/3.
    The key to this is that the lever has to return to exactly the same place
    for each pallet. One of the other fellows tried to do it this way and failed
    because it wasn't exactly the same location. It was several degrees off.
    Check every tooth of the escapement. A bent tooth or short tooth will
    not be in the right, consistent, location.
    This will require fixing the escapement wheel ( I've found that if the escapement
    has been fiddled with, the escapement wheel is almost always damaged.
    Someone though they could safely adjust this under full wound power! ).
    Once you are satisfied with this lock adjustment, you can work on the fork
    height and beat adjustment.
    Remember, you need over swing but not so much that it flutters or fails
    to land on the lock surface. Total swing is not as important.
    So:
    1. Adjust for equal drops by adjusting the eccentric.
    2. Adjust the locks, compensating for the springs recoil of the anchor.
    3. Adjust the fork to have some over swing but no flutter.
    4. Adjust the beat for equal over swing in each direction.
    Tinker Dwight
    Last edited by Tinker Dwight; 05-07-2017 at 08:21 PM.

  4. #19
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Tinker Dwight)

    Hi Marylander & Tinker,

    Thanks for your replies. I have the escapement working at the moment. I will leave it going for tonight and have another look at it tomorrow. OK about the drops. I really don't know how you would reliably measure that. I could print a 360º circle and mount it behind the escape wheel as a guide.
    Its very difficult to see what's happening on the escape wheel. There are no peep holes on the rear plate. I have to turn the clock around and use a small mechanics mirror to see what's going at the entry pallets, trying to remember that, what I am looking at is a mirror image with the pallets reversed. As if it wasn't bad enough to have a clock where the escape wheel turns in a different direction from all the diagrams & texts that I have.

    The clock has been fiddled with. There is no escaping that. If I wanted to replace the escape wheel who would be able to supply or make one?

    Cheers.

  5. #20
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Nicko)

    If there are no holes, the drops can be set by
    watching from the side and working the lever by hand.
    Right after the drop you can wiggle the escapement
    wheel back and forth.
    That should give you a good sense of the amount of drop.
    Tinker Dwight

  6. #21
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Tinker Dwight)

    <alt><ctrl><del> for the clock. I've taken it apart again to bring the lever upright. There are some escapement wheel teeth that look a bit dodgy. I may be able to mount the wheel by the pivots in the lathe. I'll will see if I can make some runners that small. If I machined up a teeth cutter, I could use that to check tooth geometry. That might be an idea. I don't have a tooth cutter, but the tool will give me some idea.

    Thanks and cheers.

  7. #22
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Nicko)

    You can use a piece modeling clay to make an impression.
    This will allow you to compare the spacing.
    Tinker Dwight

  8. #23
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Tinker Dwight)

    I've used some plasticine to make an impression of the teeth, and then moved the wheel tooth by tooth until I see a tooth that throws all the other imprints off. This was partially successful
    I would like to make something a bit more rigid than plasticine. Using the measurements in the Repair Guide I sketched two teeth in a CAD program. From there I can get a CAD print of what I need to do.

    The first jpeg is the measurements that I could glean from the guide.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll have Another try when I get the .JPG right
    Cheers

  9. #24
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Nicko)

    Nicko, this is a unique way to find misaligned teeth in an escape wheel. It should allow you to see all variances of tooth position.

    When you get the opportunity, it would be appreciated if you could post photos of your clock. There aren't very many with the 3-ball pendulum No. 26, would like to see the details so we can compare to the other clocks.

  10. #25
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: John Hubby)

    Its all very well to look at a drawing in your favourite CAD program, but its another to try to put it down as a useable real size drawing.
    Having discovered this, I thought I'd draw the escape wheel with something that could be useful. I settled for a circular series of 20 radial lines. I cut out that image, glued onto a piece of brass, centre drilled on the centre of the circle and finished with the shaft sized drill. I'll post a image with the teeth a bit bent.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    and another one with the teeth straightened up.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks Tinker and others for your write up. I have been working through that slowly.
    Before I put the anchor back in I sat it on a level surface and adjusted the pallets so the anchor stands straight up. Is this the right thing to do?
    I'll start the drops and locks adjustments and report in from time to time.

    John, what sort of pictures do want, one of the complete clock, or one of its entrails.

  11. #26
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Nicko)

    Many have used the straight up method with good results.
    It does slightly unbalance the anchor but seems to work well enough
    that I'd not justify changing the method.
    It looks like your method of getting teeth straight is working well.
    You should still use a lathe to check the length of the teeth.
    It is more critical than the spacing.
    Tinker Dwight

  12. #27
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Tinker Dwight)

    Dumb question alert! In this clock. the escape wheel rotates anti clock wise unlike the drawings in the guide. When it comes to trouble shooting say, the first line, of the table on page 47, Entrance More, Exit pallet less, does the raise lower pivot hole remain true?

  13. #28
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    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Nicko)

    Entrance pallet is the one the top of the escapement
    wheel rotates towards. The exit pallet is the one it rotates way from.
    This is always determined the same, regardless of which way the escapement
    wheel rotates.
    Moving the anchor up or down will be the same.
    This is why I prefer to use the term inside drop and outside drop.
    There is no question about what is the entrance/exit or rotation. Inside
    drop is between the pallets. Outside is outside.
    You increase inside drop by lowering the anchor and decrease it by raising
    it.
    The opposite is true for outside drop. Lowering decreases outside drop
    and raising increases it.
    Tinker Dwight

  14. #29

    Default Re: Hauck clock (By: Tinker Dwight)

    Here's an article that might help. I believe it was written by David LaBounty.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails LOCKS AND DROPS.pdf  
    A man with a clock always knows the time. A man with two clocks is never sure.

  15. #30
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    Default Re: Hauck clock

    Quote Originally Posted by shutterbug View Post
    Here's an article that might help. I believe it was written by David LaBounty.
    This article is for recoil pallets and not correct for adjusting a deadbeat on 400
    day clocks!! It doesn't even make sense for a 400 day clock.
    Tinker Dwight

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