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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: gleber)

    Tom before I forget....I am still on post one. Regardless of how others may have tackled this problem, you can tell your machinist that he did an awesome job. From a joint 101 perspective he did the right thing to let the spokes into the rim to resist the torque. However to get everything concentric like you say he did, deserves mention.

    David
    David S

  2. #32

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: David S)

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Tom before I forget....I am still on post one. Regardless of how others may have tackled this problem, you can tell your machinist that he did an awesome job. From a joint 101 perspective he did the right thing to let the spokes into the rim to resist the torque. However to get everything concentric like you say he did, deserves mention.

    David
    David, I agree; if this fits up and runs as true as described the machinist did fine work. One has to wonder just how the machinist proposed that the parts be joined. Perhaps Tom can ask when he delivers the complements on the machining.

    RC

  3. #33

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: gleber)

    This repair reminds me of how 'floating' disk brakes are made. They are joined by a large head/flanged rivet right in the center of the joining at each spoke.
    Willie X

  4. #34

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: gleber)

    Hey Tom,

    Good luck with this repair. Just for future reference, see this video for a different approach. I think that it may have worked in this situation.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTHoyaAq8Ko

    Regards,

    Bruce


  5. #35
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: Time After Time)

    Quote Originally Posted by Time After Time View Post
    Hey Tom,

    Good luck with this repair. Just for future reference, see this video for a different approach. I think that it may have worked in this situation.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTHoyaAq8Ko

    Regards,

    Bruce
    INdeed Bruce. Replacing teeth has been mentioned here many times with various different methods. I would have attempted that myself, but with a raw blank of brass, not cutting out from a donor. However since this is the great wheel I would have sistered brass reenforcements on at least one side, as I have shown here before.

    David
    David S

  6. #36

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: David S)

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    INdeed Bruce. Replacing teeth has been mentioned here many times with various different methods. I would have attempted that myself, but with a raw blank of brass, not cutting out from a donor. However since this is the great wheel I would have sistered brass reenforcements on at least one side, as I have shown here before.

    David
    If it were going to be 'sistered' and a donor gear is available, why not just sister using a gear segment? .....but that's another project and another topic with another set of options.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: R. Croswell)

    Quote Originally Posted by R. Croswell View Post
    If it were going to be 'sistered' and a donor gear is available, why not just sister using a gear segment? .....but that's another project and another topic with another set of options.
    Hi RC I was talking about ME, if I were to use Bruce's suggestion. I don't have donors sitting around, so I would just use the patch method that has often been described here. I just enjoy doing that sort of thing, and certainly not recommending it for everyone.....and yes another project and another topic.

    David
    David S

  8. #38
    Registered user. RJSoftware's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request

    Peen the legs in place. Temporary hold. Spin in lathe or drill, check that gear is running true. Solder with silver, maybe brace joints with extra pieces on outside (opposite of where spring is) to strengthen joints.
    But honestly, I wouldn't bother. It will be strong enough.

    Next time cut out teeth section about half way down, not all the way. Leave some of the rim. Cut donation gear teeth section to match. Use of pin gauges helps for teeth distances.

    Actually, a piece of brass same thickness and a file works wonders. Learn to file/cut teeth, it's fun. No need to kill a gear from another clock.

    RJ
    Good clocks always know the time, that's what they tell.

    Bad clocks get glued with macaroni, in Steampunk Hell.

    Ahh, the crunchy sound of victory https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGaVUApDVuY

  9. #39

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: bangster)

    I happen to have acquired a box of derelict movements at auction years ago. They were probably from some clock maker's shop as some of them appear to be quite old and some not so much. A lot of donor parts and brass available. I have used this approach once on a C-2 Wheel to replace a span of seven teeth and thus far it has worked quite well. The Donor's Tooth Profile is not an exact match, the the pinion mesh is good and felt seamless in my Depthing Tool. Although the repair (vs. restoration) if not perfect and is far from invisible, I think it is sound and quite functional. For a span this long, it's probably better than I could have shaped by hand and it certainly was much faster. If you have a donor on hand, I think one should certainly consider this approach as a viable one.

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  10. #40
    Registered user. gleber's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: Willie X)

    Quote Originally Posted by Willie X View Post
    This repair reminds me of how 'floating' disk brakes are made. They are joined by a large head/flanged rivet right in the center of the joining at each spoke.
    Willie X
    After a few weeks of thinking about this while working on some other projects, I decided to go with Willie's idea. I like it for its modern tech thought, simplicity, not having to heat the wheel and worry about annealing it, and it is sort of reversible (I can always remove the rivets and solder it later, and the holes filled with solder would form a good structural connections.

    So, here it is.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I drilled small holes at the center of each connection. Then I used 20 gauge flat head nails, cut them to size and peened over the shaft to lock each spoke in place. While peening the shafts, they did force the connections to separate slightly (I could see just a sliver of light through them). So, the wheel is sort of ever so slightly pentagon shaped instead of 100% round. The spokes are sort of dished too. I was thinking I might need to redo it and heat the shaft to make it more malleable, but when I test fit it with the second wheel, it ran very smoothly and I couldn't see any out of roundness. I pushed on the sides of each joint to make sure the pin wouldn't roll and separate, but the joints are nice and rigid axially.

    Thanks for everyone's suggestions. I really appreciate them ALL, even though I chose this method. Your suggestions will come in handy when I have a similar situation where this won't work, and I'll be better prepared.

    Now if I can only get one of you to respond to my lonesome post on my BF Picture Frame clock, I'll be extremely happy: http://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?1...24#post1120024

    Tom

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