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  1. #31
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: gleber)

    Tom before I forget....I am still on post one. Regardless of how others may have tackled this problem, you can tell your machinist that he did an awesome job. From a joint 101 perspective he did the right thing to let the spokes into the rim to resist the torque. However to get everything concentric like you say he did, deserves mention.

    David
    David S

  2. #32

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: David S)

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    Tom before I forget....I am still on post one. Regardless of how others may have tackled this problem, you can tell your machinist that he did an awesome job. From a joint 101 perspective he did the right thing to let the spokes into the rim to resist the torque. However to get everything concentric like you say he did, deserves mention.

    David
    David, I agree; if this fits up and runs as true as described the machinist did fine work. One has to wonder just how the machinist proposed that the parts be joined. Perhaps Tom can ask when he delivers the complements on the machining.

    RC

  3. #33

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: gleber)

    This repair reminds me of how 'floating' disk brakes are made. They are joined by a large head/flanged rivet right in the center of the joining at each spoke.
    Willie X

  4. #34

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: gleber)

    Hey Tom,

    Good luck with this repair. Just for future reference, see this video for a different approach. I think that it may have worked in this situation.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTHoyaAq8Ko

    Regards,

    Bruce
    "Every Nation gets the Government it deserves." -Joseph Marie de Maistre...
    ...and Bruce Alexander






  5. #35
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: Time After Time)

    Quote Originally Posted by Time After Time View Post
    Hey Tom,

    Good luck with this repair. Just for future reference, see this video for a different approach. I think that it may have worked in this situation.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTHoyaAq8Ko

    Regards,

    Bruce
    INdeed Bruce. Replacing teeth has been mentioned here many times with various different methods. I would have attempted that myself, but with a raw blank of brass, not cutting out from a donor. However since this is the great wheel I would have sistered brass reenforcements on at least one side, as I have shown here before.

    David
    David S

  6. #36

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: David S)

    Quote Originally Posted by David S View Post
    INdeed Bruce. Replacing teeth has been mentioned here many times with various different methods. I would have attempted that myself, but with a raw blank of brass, not cutting out from a donor. However since this is the great wheel I would have sistered brass reenforcements on at least one side, as I have shown here before.

    David
    If it were going to be 'sistered' and a donor gear is available, why not just sister using a gear segment? .....but that's another project and another topic with another set of options.

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: R. Croswell)

    Quote Originally Posted by R. Croswell View Post
    If it were going to be 'sistered' and a donor gear is available, why not just sister using a gear segment? .....but that's another project and another topic with another set of options.
    Hi RC I was talking about ME, if I were to use Bruce's suggestion. I don't have donors sitting around, so I would just use the patch method that has often been described here. I just enjoy doing that sort of thing, and certainly not recommending it for everyone.....and yes another project and another topic.

    David
    David S

  8. #38
    Registered user. RJSoftware's Avatar
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    Default Re: Solder Help Request

    Peen the legs in place. Temporary hold. Spin in lathe or drill, check that gear is running true. Solder with silver, maybe brace joints with extra pieces on outside (opposite of where spring is) to strengthen joints.
    But honestly, I wouldn't bother. It will be strong enough.

    Next time cut out teeth section about half way down, not all the way. Leave some of the rim. Cut donation gear teeth section to match. Use of pin gauges helps for teeth distances.

    Actually, a piece of brass same thickness and a file works wonders. Learn to file/cut teeth, it's fun. No need to kill a gear from another clock.

    RJ
    The bitter the challenge, the juicy the conquest.
    Conquest -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGaVUApDVuY

  9. #39

    Default Re: Solder Help Request (By: bangster)

    I happen to have acquired a box of derelict movements at auction years ago. They were probably from some clock maker's shop as some of them appear to be quite old and some not so much. A lot of donor parts and brass available. I have used this approach once on a C-2 Wheel to replace a span of seven teeth and thus far it has worked quite well. The Donor's Tooth Profile is not an exact match, the the pinion mesh is good and felt seamless in my Depthing Tool. Although the repair (vs. restoration) if not perfect and is far from invisible, I think it is sound and quite functional. For a span this long, it's probably better than I could have shaped by hand and it certainly was much faster. If you have a donor on hand, I think one should certainly consider this approach as a viable one.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Damaged C-2.jpg   Donor Wheel.jpg   MarkUp.jpg   Repaired Wheel.jpg  
    "Every Nation gets the Government it deserves." -Joseph Marie de Maistre...
    ...and Bruce Alexander






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