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  1. #16

    Default Re: Replacing original work - advice needed... (By: randall977)

    you normally just get a 12 scratched into the back of the chapter ring and nothing on the subsidiaries, but my Fennel has an F on all the parts other than the chapter ring.

    I was interested in what it looks like under the subsidiaries with a close up view of how the matting is controlled so accurately. I can see it doesn't extend far under the chapter ring but for some reason cannot enlarge the picture. Can you do close ups?
    Nick, lots to learn, late starter.

  2. #17

    Default Re: Replacing original work - advice needed... (By: novicetimekeeper)

    I managed to enlarge it by clicking on the thumbnails (not the big photos), then, when the computer brings them up, click on those images and you will get the image with a little + sign, and click again, and the image is even more enlarged. Don't know if it will be enough for what you want, but it does enlarge it quite a lot.

    JTD

  3. #18

    Default Re: Replacing original work - advice needed... (By: JTD)

    Quote Originally Posted by JTD View Post
    I managed to enlarge it by clicking on the thumbnails (not the big photos), then, when the computer brings them up, click on those images and you will get the image with a little + sign, and click again, and the image is even more enlarged. Don't know if it will be enough for what you want, but it does enlarge it quite a lot.

    JTD
    Worked a bit (my chromebook doesn't appear to behave like normal computers)

    However you can see the matting runs under the chapter ring by more than the width of the subsidiaries, it must be very difficult to keep the over run to such a tight tolerance.
    Nick, lots to learn, late starter.

  4. #19
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    Default Re: Replacing original work - advice needed... (By: novicetimekeeper)

    As someone who does quite a lot of case restoration and antiques repairs I can tell you (my opinion) that I would never dream about trying such a drastic repair. The door looks pretty flat to me. I have seen some where one corner is about an inch away from the case (twisted) and that is a bit more of an issue, but the door is 100% original. You also run a lot of risk trying to remove and relay the veneer on new wood. Removing the old veneer is not often as easy as you might think, unless you're willing to soak the entire door several days in the tub.

    I'm fairly sure the clock would have had finials, especially a fancy musical clock like this. THOSE finials, probably not, but finials, more than likely. There are several styles and prices as far as finials go. They range from cheapo 20$ stamped brass ones up to about 120$ exact antique replicas (sand castings custom made, etc). There is always a chance that the original finials may have been gilt wood (as Jim points out), but the clock has a lot of solid brass details (column ribs and capitals) so I would lean towards brass finials on this particular clock.

    Regarding the sides (glass or frets) most tend to have frets, but it's possible that since it's a musical clock, it was desirable to see the movement. Either choice seems fine to me, so it comes down to what you prefer. The very plain rectangular openings with the same detail as the glazed front door seem perfectly suited for glass.

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