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  1. #1
    Registered User scott64a's Avatar
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    Default Tiffany & Co. Chelsea Movement Issues

    Hey all,

    I've recently overhauled this Chelsea movement for a customer, and while in there I noticed that the adjustment lever for the rate had been silver soldered at some point. Also, the hairspring seems OK, but no matter what, the ticking isn't even.

    It ran well for me for the requisite three week testing and rating period, but after a month with my customer it has stopped again.
    The bushings all look fantastic -no wiggle, proper end shake. Pivots are all smooth and polished. Springs were stripped and cleaned, lubed with light mainspring grease.

    Really, my chief suspicions regarding this movement are that the hairspring has been altered or bent in a way that puts it out of beat.

    It has always been my practice to just replace the balance wheel and hairsprings in these and pocket watches as I lack the tooling necessary to vibrationally match them up or check the balance of the wheel.

    Usually, and in 98% of the cases, one can source a parts movement and simply swap the hairspring and balance staff out, but here I am stuck without a ready source of parts.

    Chelsea... they like to keep their parts hidden away and not for sale to repairmen or the public.


    So...

    -Does anyone have a procedure for setting up this hairspring?

    -Does anyone have a match for this hairspring and balance wheel that I may purchase?

    -Does anyone work on hairspring/balance wheel assemblies where I could send this off and have the work done?

    I told my customer it would be a while before he got his clock back, and he's quite OK with that.
    I think this may be the last Chelsea movement I work on, honestly.

    Any info would help greatly.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Registered user. Kevin W.'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Tiffany & Co. Chelsea Movement Issues (By: scott64a)

    Any pictures of the movement.
    One clock at a time. Kevin West
    http://www.global-horology.com/GHMB/

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Tiffany & Co. Chelsea Movement Issues (By: Kevin W.)

    You can set the beat by rotating the collar for the spring. You can usually
    take a jewelers screw driver and rotate the collar by putting it in the slot
    and using it as a lever. Hold the balance wheel so as to not load the pivots.
    The spring needs to pass cleanly through the regulator and not put
    significant side pressure on the balance wheel.
    Also check the lever arm. I just got a clock running that has the lever
    arm as a separate piece then the pin pallets. It was badly adjusted by
    some earlier person ( not the only problem ).
    To run right, the lever must lock clear of the roller and balance wheel
    arbor. Poor power will not do this well. The clock will run fast if it
    doesn't lock ( often people fiddle with the regulator to try to fix this
    and break something ). It will run fast until it finally stops, that is.
    Tinker Dwight
    Last edited by Tinker Dwight; 02-18-2017 at 01:02 PM.

  4. #4
    Registered User scott64a's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tiffany & Co. Chelsea Movement Issues (By: Kevin W.)

    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin W. View Post
    Any pictures of the movement.
    Heh, I meant to add one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chelseas MVMT.jpg  

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Tiffany & Co. Chelsea Movement Issues (By: scott64a)

    Does that have the hair spring that goes over the top of
    the rest of the spring?
    If so, it is a special way to route the spring to keep it isochronal.
    It is not an error.
    The method I mentioned should still adjust the centering of the
    roller. You can ignore anything else I said about the hair spring and
    regulator.
    I'd guess the silver soldering was original.
    That is a nice bimetal balance wheel.
    You might check the lever location at each drop.
    The lacquor holding the stones can age and lose there position.
    Tinker Dwight
    Last edited by Tinker Dwight; 02-18-2017 at 08:24 PM.

  6. #6
    Registered User scott64a's Avatar
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    Default Re: Tiffany & Co. Chelsea Movement Issues (By: Tinker Dwight)

    It does, and it looks like it's been tweaked as the coil is collapsed; more than it should be.
    I'm in contact with Chelsea, and have given them the ser. number so they can check around.

    The silver soldering is definitely not original on the adjustment lever -it's been patched after a break it looks like.

    Good tip about the lacquer. If I can, I'll just get a whole new assembly. I don't have the tools to vibrate and match the wheel, spring and staff.

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