Nicely done, as always, Paul!
Yes, I did so in the English verge. That's not adjustable, but just to check if it's all correct there. It seems to be a good way to check the adjustment before assembling the entire movement, it's not very convenient to take it apart and reassemble time after time...
I like the comments you post, they add a lot to my write-ups
Thanks you both for kind words.
As for the balance.
I've read that if a balance wheel has a heavy spot it will run consistently in horizontal positions, while in vertical positions it will have deviations, loosing most (or gaining least) in the position indicating the heavy spot (hmmm.l.. heavy it was, not light, right ?).
So if the heavy spot on the balance wheel is is located directly at 6 o'clock direction, the watch will run slowest crown up, fastest crown down and somewhere between crown left and right.
This watch runs slow crown up and right and fast crown down and left, so probably there is a diagonal position that's slowest and fastest as well. Maybe, maybe not
Wonderful article! Great photos! Thank you.
"the balance needs to be repoised and the bad readings are arranged in a manner suggesting there is a diagonal position even worse.
Clearly, there must be an obvious heavy spot on the balance, but I think I'll attend to it next time."
What makes you suspect this?
Here you can see the "unbreakable mainspring" solution I mentioned above.
Scroll down to the middle of the page where you find picture 8.
I think I understand what you described earlier. The lip made from an old mainspring is what I use to attach a mainspring. I found it long ago in some watchmaking book and i still do it if I am to fit an old blue steel mainspring. I believe it is a stronger solution than just folding the mainspring.
Yes, un-pinning the hairspring from the stud is aslo an option, both not very convenient.
As for the intersetting wheel screw - I probably didn't, but I also did not ty very hard to remove it. Maybe it's left threaded in fact...
And the mainspring - usually the end of the mainspring should just engage the barrel wall, or so it is in every single watch I've worked on before. This one has this 'bridge' to connect the end of the mainspring with the barrel, that's it
Thanks for extensive commentary again !
Your watch is beautiful- it looks like you did a great job restoring it. Use it well!
Thanks for the pictures of Kazimierz - I visited Cracow a few years ago and was thoroughly enchanted by it- especially the Rema Synagogue (upper picture) and its adjacent cemetery and the Izzak Synagogue. The larger synagogue was closed the day we visited...I think I remember looking in the window of the antique shop.
Thanks for sharing!
The interaction/adjustment of the crown wheel and the verge/pallets can be quite delicate in these old movements. This is particular true if you have taken all the bearings apart.
I install the crown wheel and the balance wheel in the plate and do the adjustments before I assemble the complete movement.
Again Congratulations on a job well done.
I had not "discovered" this section of the forum before, so I am a newbee in this section...........
Some comments to your post:
Yes, in Roskopf's watch there are some interesting design ideas employed,
I agree, in my oppinion every watchmaker should have had a Rosekopf disassembled and put together again. Easy to work with but there are some interesting solutions....... however. one thing I don't like with Rosekopf is the loud ticking. It is easy to tell if there is a Rosekopf movement in the room....LOL
I HATE friction fitted hairspring studs. Very unpleasant to work on..
I come across these all the time but I always remove the pin and leave the stud in the balance cock. I just have to remember to mark or take a picture of how deep the hairspring is mounted.....
The gear on the barrel cover does not look like it can be taken off...
I have the same experience. Hopefully someone else can confirm or explain how to take it apart!
The intersetting wheel is screwed-down very tight and I can't move the screw. So I left it be not to break it.
I don't recall from the top of my head but did you try to treat it as a left threaded screw.... (pun intended)
In the barrel, someone put a 'bridge' made of a broken spring, to conect the mainspring end securely with the barrel tooth. I think the end must have been slipping, so - not checking that -i just copied this solution.
I am not 100% sure what you meant however I believe this is the original design making the mainspring slip when fully wound (instead of breaking if someone use excessive force)..... I can wind my Rosekopf's for ever but with a clear slippage when the mainspring is fully wound! First time I experienced this I thought the mainspring had come loose of broke......
Enjoy your Rosekopf!
Yes, I always repin not cut, unless I make major adjustments.
The stop works... I'll have to check again. The power reserve is close to 24h now, so I think the chain is a tad short, though.
Thanks for this extended comment - much obliged !!!
Congratulations on a nice functioning verge watch!
I think you were "lucky" in finding a bent balance arbor. In my experience these arbors are hardened to the point where they will break instead of bending. Could "lack of hardening" possibly explain the wear of the paddle?
The hairspring looks bad however it could be fixed. You could try to draw it in reverse. Even if it does not come back completely to its original flat, the final touch can be done with a pair of tweezers......
If you decide to continue with the new hairspring, you don't need to cut it! Just re-pin it and leave the excess like you often see on cylinder escapements.
Your concern regarding the stop works is quite valid. I have had some movements with this problem and the first thing to check is that the last turn of the chain is close to the edge of the barrel. If not the chain will have the wrong angle and will not engage the top plate lever untill one turn too late. Also check that the chain does not wind a double turn at the end. This can occur if the top plate lever is not properly adjusted.
Normally the chain should rest half or at least a quarter of a turn on the barrel when the winding is stopped. How to correct? Well I only see two possibilities: Extend/new chain or adjust the stop lever to lock one turn early!
Good luck with your verge.
I 'made' one. From my American parts stock I took one that seemed similar and cut out the inner coils.
I've got a hairspring just like yours, spiraled up. Where did you get the replacement?
Indeed... it took quite some effort to make one of these. The precision is amazing no doubt, as is the fusee chain itself for example. So many tiny links riveted together with these tiny hooks on both ends - I enjoyed this work a lot
The inside is lot more interesting to see than the outside.
People don't think of the craftsmanship that goes into making things work. They just see the whole.
Very fine work. I'm jealous.
Thank you for the close-uphotos and explanations.
Amazing the precision accomplished before modern machines.
The moment I saw the listing I knew it was mine.
It's a beautiful watch
Nice to see it ticking away. It cleaned up nicely! As always, a fine write-up.
A pretty little watch, Paul. Nice to see an example with the case, dial and hands all together. Good write-up and good explanation of 'the spring'.