Methods for Storing/Displaying Uncased Movements

[cogito]

Hello all,

I'm hoping to elicit discussion on how fellow collectors are storing/displaying their uncased movements. Any suggestions on how to store and display antiquarian movements would be most appreciated.

Is anyone aware of plexiglass holders (such that the movement sides are covered and the top plate is covered to prevent dust collection) or something of this sort for large/thick movements?

Regards,
Jeff

[cogito]

Hello all,

I'm hoping to elicit discussion on how fellow collectors are storing/displaying their uncased movements. Any suggestions on how to store and display antiquarian movements would be most appreciated.

Is anyone aware of plexiglass holders (such that the movement sides are covered and the top plate is covered to prevent dust collection) or something of this sort for large/thick movements?

Regards,
Jeff

[cogito]

Unfortunately, the watch tins are often not deep enough to contain the fat verge fusee movements, so I guess I'm still on the search for that perfect solution for the early verges.

I'm curious if anyone out there has had experience with customizing viewers/holders out of that thick plexiglass material you often see encasing insects and seashells at local tourist trap gift shops. It seems like you could fashion a movement viewer/holder out of this material (not encasing the movement, mind you) in such a way to allow for viewing of the top plate and side of the movement.

Jeff

[Hans Dahlke]

I use 2x2x7/8 clear plastic hinged boxes that fir any movement up to size 20 or so.

Send me an email if you need some more information.

Hans

[Tom McIntyre]

There was an article in the Bulletin quite a while ago on how to make a display case similar to the ones the Chamberlain movement collection was housed in.

These have a central disk with a hole in it and a fairly deep ridge on either side of the middle element. The disk has two crystals in bezels that are made deep enough to clear the movement and/or dial parts.

I will try to post a picture of one in the next few days.

Each case is unique to the watch it holds, but they have a similar design with parameters that are modified to fit each watch.

Tom McIntyre
NAWCC 2nd VP Candidate
Tommy the JOAT's Web (http://www.AWCo.org)

[Jon Hanson]

For my movement colletions I use various containers, but I also use (and especially like) the same method as Hans because these boxes line up evenly in the drawers, have that extra area for mov'ts with male stems and other parts, more room for disassembled mov'ts, stack, and keep out the dust. They are also cheaper than just about anything else! :biggrin:

Jon Hanson, nawcc#8801
President chapter 149

[Greg Davis]

I encase my movements in Lucite and call it art. :smile:

Okay, seriously, I have them in various storage containers. Some are on tins, some on boxes, some in small Ziploc baggies. Until reading this topic it did not occur to me that I had enough uncased movements to warrant having a specific storage strategy. Now that I think on the matter, it's obvious I do need such a strategy. Happily, I just got another 60-drawer storage cabinet, so I think I'll turn it to the purpose of storing my movements.

150941
Ch.149 member #77

[Jon Hanson]

Greg,

REMOVE THOSE MOV'TS FROM ZIP LOCK BAGGIES AT ONCE!
(esp in Texas!) :wink:

Jon Hanson, nawcc#8801
President chapter 149

[This message was edited by Jon Hanson on December 03, 2002 at 12:14.]

[Greg Davis]

Thanks for the word of caution. Will do.

150941
Ch.149 member #77

[Jon Miller]

Responding directly to the initial question:

Recently, my co-workers gave me an engraved commemorative thingy made out of a hefty block of clear acrylic --about 6x5x2 inches. It has a round cavity drilled out of the front face of it to accommodate a quartz clock that is just about as big as an 18-size pocket watch. It struck me that this could be the basis for a good way to store/display uncased movements. There's a custom acrylic place near me that I plan to ask to fabricate a scaled-up version that will hold several movements. It should be a simple matter to drill for the movements and then ream out slots for the stems/crowns.
I have no idea what this might cost, but it can't hurt to check it out.

[triumphfreak]

hi everyone here is a method i just found and maybe some of you are using them but if not then they are 2 3/4 in across and a hair under 1 in deep and i have a mail order source for you as well if you like e-mail me off line and i'll send you the link they are pretty heavy duty and stackable if you want and at 1.50 for 4 plus shipping how can you go wrong!! i put my ewd prior verg fusee in for demonstration purposes
http://www.pixhost.com/pixt/trifreak/p1120001.jpg

jeff roe

[collectit]

Hello I have been enjoying reading the posts for sometime now and I thought it was time I added my 2 cents worth, I have been using Scotch Vinyl Electrical Tape containers for my watch repair storage and parts etc. and they are quite handy, the price is right as they are free, if you know a electrician he will have several of these that black electrical tape comes in and they usually throw them away, they measure 3 ½" in diameter by 7/8" deep. I will try a url for the first time. Larry
http://members.sockets.net/~collectit/storage.jpg
http://members.sockets.net/~collectit/storage1.jpg
http://members.sockets.net/~collectit/storage2.jpg

[Jerry Treiman]

The topic of safes has come up before. One fact that few seemed aware of is that the fire-resistant safes work by having a lining or insulation material that gives off moisture when in a fire. The moisture keeps the temperature down so that papers will not burn, but will also rapidly rust watches in a fire situation.