View Full Version : Barometers, not clocks

06-29-2007, 12:23 PM
OK, time to branch out a bit. I have a Schatz Royal Mariner set and the barometer doesn't work. The arrow never moves. Does anyone know anything about barometer repair?

I assume the entire unit must be replaced. From what I can tell, it's a "holosteric barometer". I assume that it's a gas charged item like an Atmos clock and either needs a recharge or replacement.

Any links or help appreciated, Chris

06-29-2007, 03:28 PM
An easy check , is to put your barometer in a ziplock bag and then press or squeeze it... the indicator in the barometer should move.

It isn't the endall conclusion of working or not working, but it will give you a sense if the bellows are completely gone.


06-29-2007, 04:12 PM
May be. Of ignorance, I doubt it is charged. I believe "holosteric" would imply that (not charged) if so.
I'd simply proceed with the barometer as you would a clock. They're very much clocklike in some aspects - the mechanical ones. An anchored diaphragm opens and closes with changes of pressure. That motion is translated into radial motion - pointer indication - by virtue often of a lever and tiny chain with a wraparound config.
I've dismantled and serviced several of these and find them very straightforward and understandable.
Take it apart. See what's in there and tell us - show us. We'd all love to learn from your experience.

06-29-2007, 05:15 PM
Scottie is pretty much on it. type of barometer would be an " aneroid barometer".
They have to be adjusted for different areas as altitude becomes a factor.

Get a reading from a local weather station and then use the setting screw on the back (it should be there) to set your barometer to that reading.

Then to check movement--the matching barometer for the Royal Mariner should have a pointer on the front that you turn the center knob to lay that pointer directly over the barometers readout pointer. You can then see if the barometer is working and how far the working pointer varies from the set pointer.
Depending on the weather it might not change much at all.
As the weather changes--you should be able to detect wheter it is working by the distance of movement between the two pointers.

There is no charge or recharge.

Remember to set to local weather at the beginning.

This might get the job done--if not there will probably be a mechanical problem in the works.

07-01-2007, 02:15 PM
Did you ever solve the problem with your barometer?

07-01-2007, 08:08 PM
Nope, not yet. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. From what I've read, sometimes you have to adjust the screw in the back to compensate for altitude, while giving the screw a tap (presumably to loosen things.)

As soon as I get into it, I'll post the results.

07-01-2007, 08:21 PM
Good-- will look for your result.
Affirmative on the screw in the back. Read my initial post above.

07-01-2007, 09:16 PM
My first test before dismantling would be to test for needle freedom - does it - CAN it move. I take the meter in hand and give it a sharp rotary twist/snap. A free needle will react to this motion. If the needle can freely move, perhaps only cal. will be necessary. If it were mine, I'd still dismantle, clean, and assemble as a clock.

Mike Phelan
07-02-2007, 03:59 AM
I'd agree with that, Scottie.
The aneroid capsule should be totally flattened when ypu remove it. If not, and you can squeeze it together, it has got air in it (unusual).

There is a very fine roller chain (like a fusee chain) which must be clean and not be oiled.