Kent
12-25-2001, 11:40 AM
VCWelch said, in part,
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
I am ... interested in finding out about ... a Hampden Watch ... SN 1021688 ... silver-like finish ... second hand in a small dial at the 6 o'clock position.
... small lever at the 5 o'clock position.
... a lot of things on the inside cover, including another SN (?) something like 5466730. Also inside the back cover there seem to be all sorts of numbers ... scratched in.
Can anyone tell me more about this watch? What are the different positions of the winding mechanism for? What are the scribblings on the inside cover for? What could the case be made of? ... What is the best procedure for winding it ... What other information can anyone provide on how to best care for this watch? ...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Lets start with a brief history of the Dueber Hampden Co. which is told in "From Springfield To Moscow: The Complete Dueber-Hampen Story" by James W. Gibbs. It was origially published in 1954 and was enlarged as a supplement to the Bulletin of the National Assoc. of Watch and Clock Collectors in 1986. Briefly, John C. Dueber established a watch case company in Newport, KY in the late 1870's. In the mid-to-late 1880's he purchased a controlling interest in the Hampden Watch Co. of Springfield, MA. In 1888-1890, both operations were moved to a dual, attached set of factory buildings in Canton, OH. The company continued in business, producing both watches and cases until falling sales in the mid-1920's led to receivership in 1927. The manufacturing equipment, parts on hand and work in progress were sold to Russia. Operations ceased in 1930 when the machinery was shipped to Russia. It is believed that all factory records either went with the equipment, or were destroyed, and there are no surviving records from which to match serial numbers of watches against models and grades. Nevertheless, Messrs. J. Hernick and R. Arnold, by collecting descriptions of Dueber-Hampden watches, with serial numbers, over a decade or more, were able to partially reconstruct the serial number list. This was published in 1997 as NAWCC Special Order Supplement #1, "The Hampden Watch Co."
Only a small percentage of American watches were cased at the factories prior to the mid-1920's. Most watch companies just made movements in industry standard sizes. The case companies made cases in those same sizes. The practice at that time was to go to a jeweler, select the quality of the movement and then pick out the desired style and quality of case. The jeweler would then fit the movement to the case in a matter of moments.
In discussing watches, the movement is most important, with the case being considered a secondary item. Because of the need to be able to identify the movement accurately so that correct replacement parts could be obtained, the movement companies put unique serial numbers on their products. From the serial number, the grade, model and other information, such as the approximate date of manufacture, can be determined. For Dueber-Hampden, this information was re-constructed by Messrs. J. Hernick and R. Arnold. The case, being a different product, most likely from a different manufacturer, would have its own, different, serial number.
According to their book, serial number 1,021,688 (if this is the number on the movement (the "works") is most likely an 18-size watch built around 1897. Judging from your description of the location of the setting lever, your movement was designed as a hunting-case movement. A hunting-case movement is one that it fits into a case that has a protective cover over the crystal (glass). The cover is released by pressing down on the crown (the correct name for the winding knob). The movement is designed such that the winding stem is at the 3 o'clock position and that the seconds dial is at the 6 o'clock position. It's made this way to facilitate the proper means of holding the watch when opening it. Your actual case may open-face, causing the watch to be a "sidewinder," one with the winding stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Your case sounds like a nickel case. Nickel cases, sometimes referred to as nickel-silver cases, were relatively inexpensive and are durable. When polished up properly, they attain a nice luster, appearing like silver, but not quite as "white." American watch case companies produced nickel cases under various trade names including, Alaska Metal, Oresilver, Silverine, Silveriod and Silverode. One of these names may be stamped inside of the back cover. The other numbers and "stuff" scratched into the back of your watch are most likely jewelers marks indicating (by code) who worked on it, when it was worked on, and what they did.
As for winding a watch, take a look at this report of a meeting of the British Watch and Clock Makers' Guild (http://www.knology.net/~ksinger/watch_winding.jpg). I'm not sure what you mean by the "different positions of the winding mechanism"?
To take care of it, here's some notes written by Ed Ueberall:
USE AND CARE OF YOUR VINTAGE WATCH
by Edward B. Ueberall, proprietor: The Escapement
Vintage watches were designed to give many years of dependable service. They will continue to give excellent service if the suggestions for care and use given below are followed:
1. WINDING
Wind your watch at the same time every day, preferably in the morning when you first arise. The winding crown can be turned in both directions without harm. Wind the watch until increased resistance is felt. You cannot "overwind" a watch, but extreme force can damage internal winding
gears.
2. SETTING
For a pendant set watch, pull out on the winding crown to set the hands. Don't "jerk" the crown to the setting position, use a steady pulling motion. To set the hands on a lever set watch, remove the bezel (the part of the case that holds the crystal) or open the hunting case cover. To the right of the winding pendant will be the end of a small lever. With fingernail, pull the lever away from the dial. When the lever is in the extended position the hands can be set using the winding crown. Make sure the setting lever is returned to the "winding" position before replacing the bezel or closing the outer cover. Hands can be set either forward or backward with both setting mechanisms.
3. WEARING
To prevent crystal breakage, pocket watches in a vest or watch pocket are worn with the crystal facing the body. Women's watches worn on a chain or on a watch pin can be worn with the crystal facing in or out at the owners preference.
4. DON'TS
Don't let your watch get wet. Vintage watches are NOT waterproof and can suffer severe damage from water. If your watch does get wet, take it to a competent watchmaker or jeweler immediately) Any delay in stopping internal corrosion (rusting) can cause continuing damage.
Don't drop your watch or subject it to strong physical shocks. The pivots in a watch can be as small as the diameter of a human hair and can break if the watch is dropped or struck against a hard surface.
Keep your watch away from strong magnetic fields such as electric motors, stereo speakers or electrical generators. Any strong magnetic field can make a watch run erratically or cause it to stop. Magnetizing a watch will usually not cause permanent damage, and the problem can be corrected by running the watch through a demagnetizing coil.
5. SERVICE
Vintage watches are precision instruments and require periodic professional maintenance to give good service. Manufacturers usually recommended watches in daily service be cleaned and overhauled every two years. Watches that are used only occasionally require less frequent service. If your watch gradually starts to lose time (starts to run slow), have the watch checked by a competent watchmaker to determine if an overhaul is needed. When (he watch is not being used, store it in a location free from dust, lint and moisture. Never keep any other objects in a watch pocket with your watch.
Enjoy your vintage watch,
http://www.knology.net/~ksinger/escapement_logo_sm.jpg (http://members.aol.com/stdwatch)
Click for info.
Good luck,
Kent
[This message has been edited by Kent (edited 12-25-2001).]
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>
I am ... interested in finding out about ... a Hampden Watch ... SN 1021688 ... silver-like finish ... second hand in a small dial at the 6 o'clock position.
... small lever at the 5 o'clock position.
... a lot of things on the inside cover, including another SN (?) something like 5466730. Also inside the back cover there seem to be all sorts of numbers ... scratched in.
Can anyone tell me more about this watch? What are the different positions of the winding mechanism for? What are the scribblings on the inside cover for? What could the case be made of? ... What is the best procedure for winding it ... What other information can anyone provide on how to best care for this watch? ...<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Lets start with a brief history of the Dueber Hampden Co. which is told in "From Springfield To Moscow: The Complete Dueber-Hampen Story" by James W. Gibbs. It was origially published in 1954 and was enlarged as a supplement to the Bulletin of the National Assoc. of Watch and Clock Collectors in 1986. Briefly, John C. Dueber established a watch case company in Newport, KY in the late 1870's. In the mid-to-late 1880's he purchased a controlling interest in the Hampden Watch Co. of Springfield, MA. In 1888-1890, both operations were moved to a dual, attached set of factory buildings in Canton, OH. The company continued in business, producing both watches and cases until falling sales in the mid-1920's led to receivership in 1927. The manufacturing equipment, parts on hand and work in progress were sold to Russia. Operations ceased in 1930 when the machinery was shipped to Russia. It is believed that all factory records either went with the equipment, or were destroyed, and there are no surviving records from which to match serial numbers of watches against models and grades. Nevertheless, Messrs. J. Hernick and R. Arnold, by collecting descriptions of Dueber-Hampden watches, with serial numbers, over a decade or more, were able to partially reconstruct the serial number list. This was published in 1997 as NAWCC Special Order Supplement #1, "The Hampden Watch Co."
Only a small percentage of American watches were cased at the factories prior to the mid-1920's. Most watch companies just made movements in industry standard sizes. The case companies made cases in those same sizes. The practice at that time was to go to a jeweler, select the quality of the movement and then pick out the desired style and quality of case. The jeweler would then fit the movement to the case in a matter of moments.
In discussing watches, the movement is most important, with the case being considered a secondary item. Because of the need to be able to identify the movement accurately so that correct replacement parts could be obtained, the movement companies put unique serial numbers on their products. From the serial number, the grade, model and other information, such as the approximate date of manufacture, can be determined. For Dueber-Hampden, this information was re-constructed by Messrs. J. Hernick and R. Arnold. The case, being a different product, most likely from a different manufacturer, would have its own, different, serial number.
According to their book, serial number 1,021,688 (if this is the number on the movement (the "works") is most likely an 18-size watch built around 1897. Judging from your description of the location of the setting lever, your movement was designed as a hunting-case movement. A hunting-case movement is one that it fits into a case that has a protective cover over the crystal (glass). The cover is released by pressing down on the crown (the correct name for the winding knob). The movement is designed such that the winding stem is at the 3 o'clock position and that the seconds dial is at the 6 o'clock position. It's made this way to facilitate the proper means of holding the watch when opening it. Your actual case may open-face, causing the watch to be a "sidewinder," one with the winding stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Your case sounds like a nickel case. Nickel cases, sometimes referred to as nickel-silver cases, were relatively inexpensive and are durable. When polished up properly, they attain a nice luster, appearing like silver, but not quite as "white." American watch case companies produced nickel cases under various trade names including, Alaska Metal, Oresilver, Silverine, Silveriod and Silverode. One of these names may be stamped inside of the back cover. The other numbers and "stuff" scratched into the back of your watch are most likely jewelers marks indicating (by code) who worked on it, when it was worked on, and what they did.
As for winding a watch, take a look at this report of a meeting of the British Watch and Clock Makers' Guild (http://www.knology.net/~ksinger/watch_winding.jpg). I'm not sure what you mean by the "different positions of the winding mechanism"?
To take care of it, here's some notes written by Ed Ueberall:
USE AND CARE OF YOUR VINTAGE WATCH
by Edward B. Ueberall, proprietor: The Escapement
Vintage watches were designed to give many years of dependable service. They will continue to give excellent service if the suggestions for care and use given below are followed:
1. WINDING
Wind your watch at the same time every day, preferably in the morning when you first arise. The winding crown can be turned in both directions without harm. Wind the watch until increased resistance is felt. You cannot "overwind" a watch, but extreme force can damage internal winding
gears.
2. SETTING
For a pendant set watch, pull out on the winding crown to set the hands. Don't "jerk" the crown to the setting position, use a steady pulling motion. To set the hands on a lever set watch, remove the bezel (the part of the case that holds the crystal) or open the hunting case cover. To the right of the winding pendant will be the end of a small lever. With fingernail, pull the lever away from the dial. When the lever is in the extended position the hands can be set using the winding crown. Make sure the setting lever is returned to the "winding" position before replacing the bezel or closing the outer cover. Hands can be set either forward or backward with both setting mechanisms.
3. WEARING
To prevent crystal breakage, pocket watches in a vest or watch pocket are worn with the crystal facing the body. Women's watches worn on a chain or on a watch pin can be worn with the crystal facing in or out at the owners preference.
4. DON'TS
Don't let your watch get wet. Vintage watches are NOT waterproof and can suffer severe damage from water. If your watch does get wet, take it to a competent watchmaker or jeweler immediately) Any delay in stopping internal corrosion (rusting) can cause continuing damage.
Don't drop your watch or subject it to strong physical shocks. The pivots in a watch can be as small as the diameter of a human hair and can break if the watch is dropped or struck against a hard surface.
Keep your watch away from strong magnetic fields such as electric motors, stereo speakers or electrical generators. Any strong magnetic field can make a watch run erratically or cause it to stop. Magnetizing a watch will usually not cause permanent damage, and the problem can be corrected by running the watch through a demagnetizing coil.
5. SERVICE
Vintage watches are precision instruments and require periodic professional maintenance to give good service. Manufacturers usually recommended watches in daily service be cleaned and overhauled every two years. Watches that are used only occasionally require less frequent service. If your watch gradually starts to lose time (starts to run slow), have the watch checked by a competent watchmaker to determine if an overhaul is needed. When (he watch is not being used, store it in a location free from dust, lint and moisture. Never keep any other objects in a watch pocket with your watch.
Enjoy your vintage watch,
http://www.knology.net/~ksinger/escapement_logo_sm.jpg (http://members.aol.com/stdwatch)
Click for info.
Good luck,
Kent
[This message has been edited by Kent (edited 12-25-2001).]