Fusee

[Hoopty]

I picked up a Joseph Johnson fusee which was in pieces in a box.. All jewels and pivots look good.. chain has had it tho. This chain drive watch scares the daylights out of me. Can any of you tell me a good place to send this for repair? Bruce

[Hoopty]

I picked up a Joseph Johnson fusee which was in pieces in a box.. All jewels and pivots look good.. chain has had it tho. This chain drive watch scares the daylights out of me. Can any of you tell me a good place to send this for repair? Bruce

[Oliver Mundy]

On my website I have drawn an exploded view of a typical 19th-century English full-plate movement which you may possibly find helpful, if only to check that everything is there ( http://www.horologia.co.uk/fusee_diagram_1.html ). I am working on a series of step-by-step instructions for dismantling and reassembling such watches and carrying out some basic repair processes such as replacing the chain.

I realise that this does not directly answer your question, but in an instance like this, where (by the sound of it) no new parts are needed except the chain, there is a great deal to be said for trying one's own hand. Fusee-chains are quite often available on eBay, selling for about $25.

[Hoopty]

Oliver,

Thank you for the informative display.. Made the watch appear much less ominus.. I do have one question however. It is obvious that the chain fits on the cone at the bottom.. How is the chain attached to the cone? I am guessing the hook end goes onto the barrel..

I took a quick look at my watch and all of the pieces are there. The chain is present but the end opposite the hook is broken (small eye)..

Also, this has a very nice gold colored dial that looks tarnished as does the movement. any hints on cleaning?

Can you tell me more about joseph johnson?

Oliver, sorry for the 20 questions.. Thank you for any info you can provide.. Bruce

[cogito]

Hoopty,

I would suggest looking on Ebay for a replacement chain of similar length, unless you're willing to fasten a replacement hook to the existing broken chain. The latter can be done, but may be more hassle than it's worth. One thing to keep in mind...the hooks on either end of the fusee chain are quite different from each other. The hook that attaches to the fusee cone is "J" shaped; whereas, the mainspring end of the chain has a straightened barbed appearance. If you going to get a replacement hook, it will be important to get the right type.

Oliver...care to construct a diagram for breaking down a verge fusee repeater? :wink:

Regards,
Jeff Browndyke
Mystic, CT

[Oliver Mundy]

Bruce:

The firm of Joseph Johnson operated from about 1795 until shortly before 1880, although the manufacture (as opposed to importation) of watches seems to have ceased in the 1850s. They traded from Church Street, Liverpool, initially at Nos. 26/27 (some watch movements give No. 25, which was presumably the factory) and later from Nos. 48/49. The firm was somewhat unusual by British standards in that, while various family members headed the concern over the years, the name ?Joseph Johnson? was retained throughout. They were active exporters and many watches went to North America or even further; mine, which dates from about 1823, spent much of its life in New Zealand, although it may have been taken out by an emigrant in the 1860s.

Johnson's serial numbers are difficult to interpret; there are indications that a series consisting of very large movements designed for pair-cases ran up to about 1830, reaching 10,000 or so, while later movements (of slightly slimmer calibre) had a separate numerical series which regained the five-figure mark in the early 1840s. The gold dial on your watch suggests the period 1830-50. (It would be interesting to have details of the signature and serial number. Is there a case, and if so is it hallmarked?)

Dabbing with white spirit on a small paintbrush is as far as I have ever ventured in the way of cleaning. This has a drying effect and the bearings and pivots would need to be lubricated afterwards.

Fusee-chains usually break at the very end, so that (as Cogito implies) the old chain should still be valid as a guide to the length required. If this is an early deep-bodied movement, with a spring-barrel approaching 1/5 inch in depth, it may need a chain up to ten inches long; on a later one, with the barrel little more than 1/8 inch deep, the length will probably be between 7 and 8 inches.

[Hoopty]

Oliver,

First off, thank you for the info on Joseph Johnson.. The movement I have did not have a case. The movement in signed Joseph Johnson (not script) Bold St Liverpool (interesting note.. the t in st is slightly above the l in liverpool.. Guess they ran out of room)The serial number looks to be 12,400. The 4 in 400 is very hard to read due to the pillar post pin placement. On the pillar plate are letters and numbers 1twB0.. The dust cap has the letters ws stamped into it..

It has clear jewels.. dont know if they are diamond or not.. Very hefty looking.. Hope this helps in ID'ing this watch.. I can send you a pic if that would help.. Thanks for the help Bruce