A question about jewels

[S.W.]

Hi.

I've read that before 1900, pocket watches used real jewels in their movements, and that after 1900, watch companies began using synthetic jewels instead. I therefore assumed my 1922 Elgin 315 had synthetic jewels.

I notice that the 1917 Oskamp-Nolting Jewelry catalog describes Elgin movement 315 as having ruby balance jewels. So does the 1922 also have actual rubies in it?

Thanks.
Steve.

[Dr. Jon]

Synthetic ruby watch jewels are mechanically and chemically equivalent. For jewels the synthetic are probably a bit better as they are more likely to be uniform.

Both for watchmaking purposes are real jewels. As Jewelry, synthetic rubies are less valuable because they are more common and less interesting because of their uniformity. These do not detract for their use in watches.

Clear Sapphire is aluminum oxide. Put some iron in it to make ruby.

[S.W.]

Thanks, Dr. Jon!

That's good to know. It does have rubies in it, but they are man-made rubies. It's amazing what science can do!

Thanks again.
Steve.

[Kent]

S.W.

Nice watch!

If you were a member of the NAWCC, you'd be able to borrow (by mail) a 40+ minute tape that shows watch jewels being made at the Elgin National Watch Co. in the 1940s.

Also, you could borrow another tape showing the steps of making a watch in the Illinois Watch Co. factory in 1922.

[S.W.]

Thanks, Kent! I appretiate the compliment. The watch is stunning now, much more so than when that photo was taken. I commented to the jeweler today how there is no brass showing through the gold, and he said, "your grandfather must not have used it much." Well, my dad remembers my grandfather using that watch for over 40 years, and it's been repaired 4 times, so I know he used it, and he must have taken extremely good care of it.

Anyway, the NAWCC membership is tempting. I'll look into it.

Thanks.
Steve.