Storing your watches?

[Sheila Gilbert]

How should I store my watches?

Now, I know that you all have a huge number of watches, and I just want to say, keep it simple for right now!

Where do I start? I'm sure that one day I will need a huge case for all of them, but for now, I need something to keep them in, until I am ready to do that.
I am only in the collect, and fix em up mode, and need a SAFE PLACE to store them until I am ready for that stage.

I read that I am not supposed to store them in anything with material in it? Is that correct?
No humidity? what else?
Can you give me some pointers?
I have them in small boxes without anything in them, but they move around, so I need some advice on what to do with them.

Also, I just packed up some of my watches in the bubble wrap I got, and they are in a USPS Priority Mail Box, other than INSURING them, is there anything else I should be doing? Do I do them registerd, or anything else?
These are my GOOD ones!

1.) How to store?
2.) How to send? (Safely)

Thank you,
Sheila

[Sheila Gilbert]

How should I store my watches?

Now, I know that you all have a huge number of watches, and I just want to say, keep it simple for right now!

Where do I start? I'm sure that one day I will need a huge case for all of them, but for now, I need something to keep them in, until I am ready to do that.
I am only in the collect, and fix em up mode, and need a SAFE PLACE to store them until I am ready for that stage.

I read that I am not supposed to store them in anything with material in it? Is that correct?
No humidity? what else?
Can you give me some pointers?
I have them in small boxes without anything in them, but they move around, so I need some advice on what to do with them.

Also, I just packed up some of my watches in the bubble wrap I got, and they are in a USPS Priority Mail Box, other than INSURING them, is there anything else I should be doing? Do I do them registerd, or anything else?
These are my GOOD ones!

1.) How to store?
2.) How to send? (Safely)

Thank you,
Sheila

[doug sinclair]

Sheila,

If you live in a humid area, you will want to use silica gel when you store your watches.

I hadn't heard that fabric must be avoided. I store my wrist watches in watch rolls that are fabric, and they don't suffer. One should avoid coarse, rough fabric, I suppose. And fabric should be lint free, or close to it.

My attitude about insurance is that is is only useful after your collection is gone. My suggestion would be to focus on prevention rather than replacement. After you've done that, buy insurance if it gives you any additional peace of mind.

About shipping watches! If the US postal service is anything like the Canadian postal service, certain classes of mail give you no recourse if the parcel arrives empty! As long as the parcel arrives. In Canada, you cannot buy insurance on jewellery and watches going through the mail! So the risks are there. I would suggest that you wrap your watch in bubble pack, cushion it well with extra paper, place it in a STOUT corrugated cardboard box, then seal all seams of the box with stickers containing your return address, then use stout, transparent packing tape to finally seal the box for once and for all. The box will prevent most damage from rough handling, and the personalized stickers under the clear tape will discourage anyone but the person who simply makes off with the whole package. Registered mail with a request for a signature would be the only hope there, I suspect.

[Jerry Treiman]

Some people keep their watches in soft leather or suede pouches. I DO NOT do this anymore since I have noticed a green gum forming on nickel cases. This cleans off, but I have no idea what other damage they might do. I don't know if this comes from remnants of the tanning process of some leathers or if it might be a generic problem, but I would not take chances.

[Sheila Gilbert]

Doug, Thank you for the info. The insurance I was refering to was for mailing. In the US we can insure the package and if it is lost they have to give you the value of the insurance you purchase back. That is, after all the loop holes they impose on you. Bit there are other things here too to consider. They have registered mail, certified mail, and a mess of others to choose from, and I need to know which ones I should use.
Great info. on the Silica Gel, forgot about that, it does get really humid here in the summer, and the sticker thing is great! Under the clear tape they sure can't lose my address huh? I did get a good strong box that the post office gives you free and lots of bubble wrap.
Thank you for the help!

Jerry, Wow that is good to know, I was going to use the leather or suede too! I was trying to find something other than cloth material and thought of that, glad you told me about the problem, saved me a lot of nightmares.

I don't remember where I read it, but it said that watches can "breathe" with tempature changes and that it can take in the lint and stuff from the material over time. Well, we have a lot of tempature changes here for sure!
I won't take chances either.
Thank you for your help,

Sheila

[HenryB]

I went scavenging the antique stores for wooden felt jewelry boxes. You can find them very easy.
I use the boxes for temporary storage.

I have 3 different boxes, one for working watches, one for watches I am going to resell, and one for watches that are in some sort of repair.

Ebay has some watch storage boex that hold either 12 or 18 watches with a cover (vinyl or glass), that are reasonable, and I am going to get soon.

[Ken Hags]

To offer my 2-cents...
I have purchased many collections from people over the years. The single biggest problem I find is that the collectors just pur them away and leave them for years it seems. Oil dries out! Some have been do bad, as a result of dried-out oil, that it was nearly impossible to get the backs and fronts off and the movements had to be soaked in an oil solvent for as long as several weeks just to be able to get parts out. I have found that to collect watches requires some work...they have to be cleaned and reoiled periodically or there will be a problem. I store mine in the special paper made for that purpose. It helps greatly in reducing tarnish. I also have my computer reminder portion set to remind me to turn them all over every few months. I will have them on their fronts for a while, then their backs, then standing upright, then upside down, etc. Regarding Shipping...I have received numerous compliments (from buyers) regarding my shipping/packaging methods...they always arrive in good condition. I wrap in the watch paper; then in a couple layers of the extremely tiny bubblewra; them in enough of the big bubblewrap to actually have the "ball" around the watch 'fill' the box (which is always at least 8"x8"x8" and I always ship USPS, Priority Mail, Iisured. They have lost two over 7 years but have paid both times.
Ken Hags

[Mike S]

I keep mine stored in old wooden cigar boxes, the one with felt on the bottom,. They are made of Spanish cedar and seem to work great.

Mike

[Mike Kenley]

Jerry,

What did you use to remove the green gum. I have a couple like that and the green gum is almost impossible to remove.

[crsides]

If you are shipping a high dollar watch, I suggest you send it registered. It is signed for at each point, locked up overnight, and insurance is cheaper than on priority.

Charlie

[Sheila Gilbert]

This is so great, wonderful information!

Henry, I just purchased one of those boxes on ebay the other day, and hope it's going to be OK to use. It has the plastic squares and a glass top. I question the plastic too, I got one for my wristwatches some time ago and it's real nice, but it has felt in it and I worried about that. I got the people at the local 711 to save their empty cigar boxes for me, and I am using them until I get this case issue solved. Thank you!

Ken, Can you tell me what kind of paper it is, and where I can get some of it?
It sounds perfect for shipping too.
I haven't had to deal with the oil issue yet, I am still in the fix em up mode, but once they are serviced I will be sure to use your information to care for them. Many of the watches I get are still in working order, but I knew to be careful, because of the oil being old or dried up. I do wind a couple of them, (wristwatches) because I wear them, and have had no problem yet, but they are on the list to be serviced too. Thank you for the info.

Mike S I was using my husbands wooden jewelery box before, but it was too small after a while, I must say that there is something about the wood that makes it nice, seemed kinda special, like opening a treasure. Sounds so silly, but it did!

crsides, Thank you, that is what I was wondering about, I know many use the standard priority mail, and I knew I had to sign for some of the ones I got, and wondered if it was better. Thank you, now I will probably have to change to a regular box, but will ask at the post office here. Just the kind of input I need. Answers from those that do this is always better than what they tell you at the post office. Thank you

Bless,
Sheila

[HenryB]

Sheila
Let me know how that case works out for you.

I picked up the jewelry boxes for about $15 a piece, in 3 different antique stores, and even looked at a few watches while we were at it.

[Tom Huber]

Hi Sheila, Just my two cents, I store mine in (1) the bank safe deposit box for those that are expensive and very collectable, (2) a wooden case that hangs on my bedroom wall with hooks in it. I can put about 50 watches in it, and (3) a store bought jewelry case about 2' x 3' with a glass top. I read the post by Ken H. and have no idea what type of watches he has purchased. I have been collecting for almost 50 years and have never had watches gum up or harden the way he described. He also mentioned turning and rotating his watches periodically. I have had watches stored for 10 or more years with no rotation and have had no problems. We can't say it is a difference in the climate for Ken H. as he lives about 90 miles from me.

I have no idea what Ken H. has encountered, he may do has he wishes, but IMHO his method would be overkill for me.

I use the silica gel to keep them dry and wind mine occasionally, ie once every three months and have never had one of mine dry out and bind up.

This is just my experience as compared to his. My recommendation--keep them dry, clean and at room temp, and they should run for a long time.

tom

[HenryB]

Tom
Is the wooden case with that holds 50 watches a homemade deal, or something you ran across?

My wooden case (with a glass door) only holds 12, and I am outa of room. :mad:

[Sheila Gilbert]

Someone was selling one of those huge boxes with a LOT of watches IN IT on ebay. They wanted $500.00 to start the auction and some of them looked pretty good too. I had just purchased a lot of stuff, or I would have bid for sure. I was going to post it here but I must have taken it out of my watched items.

His was like the one you talked about, it had the hooks too, and there had to be over 50 watches in it!

I'm glad I get different views on watches, it makes me read about it and find out what I think. Suggestions are wonderful for that, but in the end, it's up to me to decide what I think is best anyway.
I'm just glad that I have somewhere to go where others share what they do with their watches, and clue me in on it.

I got 3 new (Old) cases so far this week and some still out there coming soon, and I will let you know about it when I can. I'm also working on the picture mess, and hope to finish that by this weekend.

Funny, I have 2 digitals and they are both ka-put!
The computer I am on now won't do anything I want it to, and the other one just got out of the shop and it keeps locking up on me. So, it's up to the pros now!!!!!!!

I took some regular pictures with one of those disposable cameras, and even when I get them developed tomorrow, I leave little hope for them to come out right. It's a cheapie kind of camera and says you have to be 4' from the target.
So?????????

Hopefully I can post all of my finds by early next week, and show you what I have, but most of them are wristwatches, so I'm afraid the pocket Watches I have won't be anything like what you guys are used to.

Bless,
Sheila

[Smudgy]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Some people keep their watches in soft leather or suede pouches. I DO NOT do this anymore since I have noticed a green gum forming on nickel cases. This cleans off, but I have no idea what other damage they might do. I don't know if this comes from remnants of the tanning process of some leathers or if it might be a generic problem, but I would not take chances.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It's a generic problem. The problem with storing things in leather is that the leather collects moisture from the air, or oil from the surface of an object placed in it. This will cause steel to rust and other metals to oxidize (in the case of moisture). It also releases acids and sometimes dyes absorbed during the tanning and dying process (in the case of both oil and water, but depends somewhat on the specific chemicals used in the process). This is the cause of the discoloration you've experienced.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> What did you use to remove the green gum. I have a couple like that and the green gum is almost impossible to remove. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The only way I've been able to get rid of the discoloration is by polishing it off or allowing it to wear off.

[Ken Hags]

Hi again,
I'm glad that others have had no problem getting watches which were gummed up with dried oil but I have two soaking right now that they could look at...been soaking two weeks already. The green gum that everyone talks about seems to come off pretty easily with a product called "Goof Off". I buy it at Home Depot. It's a pretty strong thinner type solvent. I just put a little on with a Q-tip and let it soak for a minute or two and it seems to rub right off. Regarding the watch paper which retards tarnish, I get it in 10" wide rolls from S. Larose.
I've bought four large collections of PWs where the widow had let the watches sit in storage for from 6 to 25 years. Three of those collections had a "dried oil" problem...two were VERY BAD. I got the collections cheap because of the problems but it still took a great deal of time and attention to get things loose and cleaned and reoiled so no damage was done. Because of these happenings, I can give NUMEROUS suggestions as to how to get backs of cases which don't want to come off. I've tried everything and found a few which work great.
Take care
Ken Hags

[Tom Huber]

Ken, I have seen some watches that were bound up from nonuse. I especially steer clear of watches at outdoor flea markets that are in glass cases directly under the sun. I'll bet the temp in the cases on a sunny day reaches about 200 degrees which will bake any oilright out of the watch. Who knows how may days the watches have been displayed like this. I have just never come across an entire group of watches that were bound up like the ones you have described.

Another point--Have you ever thought of joining Chapter 37 in Pgh?

Tom

[Sheila Gilbert]

Tom,
You sure are right about that, at one of the markets around here, (almost the only one) there is a guy that had watches so hot from the sun I couldn't even pick them up. That was a long time ago and I wasn't even collection then, but I sure do remember it. The guy did freak out though, and packed them up right away, and was really upset. So I guess he was one of those that took care of his watches.
He was screaming all the way to the car about how long it was going to take him to get them cleaned up. I guess even a pro can mess up sometimes.
Sheila

[Kenny D]

Ken,
Sure would appreciate any hints or suggestions on removing "STUCK" case backs and bezels. Have four or five that I can`t get to budge. Even tried the super glue to no avail.
You can email me through the message board or post here.

Thanks!

:smile:

[Ken Hags]

Hi all,

Tom – Some one mailed me an application for 37 once. I lost it and couldn’t remember who had sent it. If you provide me with your e-mail address, I will be happy to send you my land-mail address for two applications (my brother will join also).

Kenny – Here are a couple of things I use to get tight backs off of pocket watches:
(1) For the not really bad ones, I keep a pair of surgical gloves handy. Not plastic ones as they don’t grip well. The latex ones work best. The gloves seem to work much better than the rubber cups and such.
(2) For ones where the gloves wont work, I put a big glop of hot-glue on the back and quickly press the end of a wooden paint stir stick into the hot-glue. After the glue cools totally, I grab the case in my left hand and twist the stir stick with my right hand and it almost always comes off.
(3) Some sill are stuck so hard that my left hand cant hold it tight enough. I put the case face-down onto a work bench and load hot-glue around the case sides so it sticks to the bench (not on the crystal much). Then do the stir stick thing again. This one is nearly fool proof. To get the hot-glue back off, heat with a blow dryer just to the point where you can pull chunks of it off, It comes off clean and does not damage anything.
(4) I’ve had two over the years which non of the above worked. It was like they were welded. I used #3 with three changes. Instead of putting the case face down on a work bench, I cut a square of steel plate ¼” x 5” and drilled holes into the corners and mounted the plate to the work bench. Instead of a wood stir stick, I used a piece of steel 12’ long x 1’ wide x ¼” thick. Instead of Hot-Glue, I used Epoxy. This worked. The only problem is you have to soak the glued parts (reason for the square plate…can be removed and soaked) in a product called “Attack” for 24 to 48 hours to break down the Epoxy. This one is a hassle and really not worth the effort if the watch movement and/or case is not worth much.

Hope these help.

Ken Hags kalan73897@aol.com

[Kenny D]

Ken,
Thanks for the info. I`ve noticed that the threads on the really stubborn, almost welded ones, usually have a green dry corrosion on them. Was wondering what was the best type penetrating potion/oil to use on them?
Thanks again!

:smile:

[George Davis]

Tom,
I've used a small eye dropper with alcohol directly on gummed up pivots and other parts. Just take care not to get any on shelacked parts ie roller jeweles, pallets, even older dials.

[Greg Davis]

I now store my best watches in a safe deposit box at the bank. That only accounts for eight of thw watches. The rest are stored at home in an antique store display case. I do have a lock for the case, but realize that all anyone has to do is smash and grab if they want the watches.

Now that I am about to begin showing the house (once I put it up for sale) I'll transfer the watches to some safer place until relocation is completed. It's kind of a bummer, really, because I've grown accustomed to seeing my watches... it's a real shock to the system seeing an empty case.

Please, never store your watches inside lucite cubes.

- Greg

[Tom Huber]

Kenny, I will add a bit to Ken's methods for opening a watch back or bezel. I use his method, but I use super glue instead of hot glue or epozy. I clean the case back well, then glue a 1/2" not to the center of the back. After drying, use a crescent wrench to spin it off. If the bezel is loose, best to remove the bezel. This way if the problem is loose case screws binding, them movement will fall forward and lower the screws.

For the bezel, glue a small not to the bezel with super glue at about 9:00 o'clock. It doesn't matter if it is AM or PM. When dry, hold the case stem up and tap gently down on the nut. The same principle as an impact wrench.

When done, use nail polish remover (acetone) to remove the nut and the glue.

Tom

[Kenny D]

Tom,
I did try the super glue on several cases but the glued bond always broke when I tried to turn the nut. Maybe I didn`t have the metal clean enough or I used too much glue. I`ve tried applying lighter fluid and watch oil to the seam to help loosen it but this doesn`t seem to do any good. Guess I`ll just have to keep trying. Maybe I`ll develope the "knack" for it.
It`s bad to have "sugar in the gourd and can`t get it out". And I really hate to have to break the gourd.

:smile: