Quality modern hunter case watches? (advice requested)

[Phil84]

Hi all.

I am too poor to be much of a watch collector but I can't stand being without the time or with some sweaty band strapped to my wrist.

I've just had my third pocket watch die on me in two years, and I'm sick of such poor quality from such relatively expensive (in my view-- $50-60) watches. At this point I'm ready to throw down some cash for a quality timepiece that'll last me (hopefully) a lifetime.

I am hoping that someone on this site will be able to suggest a quality modern or old but readily-available watch (or manufacturer).

My requirements (in order of decreasing importance):

1) The watch should be able to take a beating; bumps, dirt, lint etc. I feel a case to be absolutely necessary.

2) Not excessively fancy/expensive; anything $200 or above is absolutely out of the question.

3) Style; I would prefer a watch that is wound instead of battery operated-- are these more fragile?

Are my desires unrealistic? I love pocket watches but know very little about them-- I am afraid of spending more money on another piece of garbage. Any advice or info you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

-Phil

[Phil84]

Hi all.

I am too poor to be much of a watch collector but I can't stand being without the time or with some sweaty band strapped to my wrist.

I've just had my third pocket watch die on me in two years, and I'm sick of such poor quality from such relatively expensive (in my view-- $50-60) watches. At this point I'm ready to throw down some cash for a quality timepiece that'll last me (hopefully) a lifetime.

I am hoping that someone on this site will be able to suggest a quality modern or old but readily-available watch (or manufacturer).

My requirements (in order of decreasing importance):

1) The watch should be able to take a beating; bumps, dirt, lint etc. I feel a case to be absolutely necessary.

2) Not excessively fancy/expensive; anything $200 or above is absolutely out of the question.

3) Style; I would prefer a watch that is wound instead of battery operated-- are these more fragile?

Are my desires unrealistic? I love pocket watches but know very little about them-- I am afraid of spending more money on another piece of garbage. Any advice or info you could offer would be greatly appreciated.

-Phil

[Kent]

Hi Phil:

Welcome to the NAWCC Pocket Watch Message Board!

I'd say that your desires are unrealistic. A quality mechanical pocket watch (one that has to be wound), either new or antique, is not a watch that should be subjected to taking beating, bumps, dirt, lint & etc. Nor is it going to be available for much less than $200.

A hundred years ago, even the railroaders, people whose job would have involved conditions such as you describe, went far out of their way to protect their watches and not subject them to such abuse.

If you don't want a battery operated watch, I suggest that you get the cheapest mechanical watch that looks good enough for your taste and resign yourself to replacing it every couple of years. Maybe you can find a Timex pocket watch. Timex's slogan used to be "They take a lickin' and keep on ticking."

Good luck,

[doug sinclair]

Phil,

I agree with Kent! Some people seem to feel that a pocket watch is stronger than a wrist watch because of its much larger size. This is totally wrong! They take stress much differently, and even sort of protected in a pocket, they are subject to failure. If carried in a vest, or in the breast pocket of bib overalls, this problem may be somewhat less, but dust and dirt would still be a problem. The WORST place to carry a pocket watch is in a trouser pocket! I know the Swiss Army watch is beyond the $ 200 limit you mentioned, but they make one that is carried in a leather pouch on the belt. It is QUARTZ, but it is as close to the industrial strength pocket watch you are looking for. Finally, you will have difficulty finding a quality mechanical watch of any kind in the price ranges you mentioned. And in spite of your aversion to quartz, and to wrist watches, that is where your choice lies, since tough and cheap are your second and third priorities. In the world of watches as we know them today, a $ 200 watch is a cheap watch! Unfortunately. If you are able to prove us wrong, please let us know!

I might add that Kent who replied to your post initially has worn a vintage, American made Hamilton pocket watch daily for the last 25 years! The difference with Kent is that he acknowledges the wearing characteritics and limitations of pocket watches, and is able to discipline himself to wear them within these limitations. An ability you seem to lack.

[Greg Davis]

One other factor to consider about mechanical watches is that they need service to provide service. You need to have them overhauled every few years or they become unreliable. And these days, unless you know a watchmaker pretty well, the service alone will tend to cost more than you seem willing to pay for the watch.

An old pocketwatch isn't as durable as a shock-proof digital watch either. As a general rule, vintage and antique pocket watches don't have shock-proofing mechanisms on the movement (which some wrist watches do have). You want a watch that can take a beating and stand up to dirt and lint and water... well, friend, what you are describing is a dive watch, not a pocket watch.

- Greg

[RON in PA]

My response is going to be a bit different. Both S.LaRose and Frei and Borel are companies that sell watch and clock repair tools and parts. They have web pages. They carry the same pocket watch for under $120. It is an approximate 16 size open faced, pendant set watch in a base metal case. The dial is a pseudo-Montgomery dial and the case back and bezel are screw off. Now for the best part, it has a Swiss ETA 6497-1 17 jewel manual wind movement that should be of good quality and easily maintainable by a watchmaker. Technical data on this movement is available on the ETA web page. And the movement is shock proof.

This is not a collectable and is probably aestheticaly vulgar to many a collector of American pocket watches as it is made up to look like a railroad watch, but it should serve the buyer well as a basic timepiece. Also both Aero and the Hamilton division of Swatch use this same movement in current production pocket watches that retail at prices above $500.