View Full Version : Case repair
Made_USA
12-23-2004, 04:34 PM
Have a Hamilton GF size 16 swing-out case dating to around 1909. The threads on the case are cross-threaded making it difficult for the front screw bezel to be tightened completely on.
Is this type of repair possible? If so is it feasible and where can the case be sent out for repair, thank you..
Made_USA
12-23-2004, 04:34 PM
Have a Hamilton GF size 16 swing-out case dating to around 1909. The threads on the case are cross-threaded making it difficult for the front screw bezel to be tightened completely on.
Is this type of repair possible? If so is it feasible and where can the case be sent out for repair, thank you..
Hi:
Welcome to the NAWCC Pocket Watch Message Board!
For case repairs, you may want to check out Wuischpard & Son (http://www.WATCHCASEREPAIR.com). Once at their website, click on "Services" and then "Threading."
Good luck,
Kent
Jon Hanson
12-23-2004, 11:11 PM
Depending on the condition of the case it might not be money wisely spent!
Made_USA
12-24-2004, 03:02 AM
Thank you both for your advice. I agree the case might be worth repairing if the service isn’t too prohibitive. I’ll check out Wuischpard & Son. I’ve been looking for a replacement case and I probably know the answer to this but I’ll ask anyway. Does the movement need a matching circa case, if so where can I buy one?
Don Procko
12-24-2004, 04:42 AM
If you have or can borrow a "screw head file" designed for cutting the drive slot into watch screws, you may be able to "chase" the crossed thread and repair it yourself. It is a fairly easy fix using a vise to hold the case and a loupe to inspect the threads.
As an adendum to Dons suggestion;
A sharp "point" graver can be used in the same manner as the screwhead file to chase the threads. As a graver is used for cutting, it is very simple matter to re-cut the offending threads. Hold the bezel in either a case vice or "hotmelt glue stick" to a block of wood, magnification (critical) and turn the block into the graver. If you have access to a bezel chuck so much the better, chuck in lathe and with the tool rest lay the graver on it and re-cut the threads, turning the lathe head by hand, rather than under power, unless skilled at doing this....If you use the hot melt glue process...to remove from the hot glue, place in freezer for a short time and bezel will pop of the block with no damage. Excess glue if any can be removed with acetone.
just another suggestion, it really is a simple matter wether a screwhead file or graver. Probably does not warrant sending out to someone.
hope this helps, happy holidays
j.c.
0123794 nawcc
no chapters
www.jcengraver.com (http://www.jcengraver.com)
jcis@jcengraver.com
Made_USA
12-25-2004, 04:03 PM
Thanks on the excellent advice. One more question on case gold or gold filled marks. The Hamilton case isn’t marked i.e. guaranteed for 25 years. The inside back of the case is marked with fairly large lettering in a circle form text HAMILTON WATCH CO. LANCASTER, PA. Inside of that lettering is a coat of arms and chalice logo with text Hamilton above it and Quality and Patented below. The case is shiny and shows no brassing anywhere. A few months ago I showed the case to watch repairman and he thought it might be gold filled. Is an acid test for gold the way to check it?
terry hall
12-26-2004, 12:43 AM
Don't bother with the acid test.......
these were gold filled....... some were 20year, 25 year, and 'permanent'...
the 'quality' mark is the give-away...
If it was a solid gold case, the markings would indicate this..
what is the movement in this case?
Jon Hanson
12-27-2004, 09:06 AM
The "touch and feel" method also works for the experienced!
Made_USA
12-27-2004, 11:05 AM
The movement is a 992. Since the crystal needs to be replaced and I don't have the proper tools to address the thread problem, I'll probably send the case out for repair.
Jon Hanson
12-27-2004, 11:55 AM
If it houses a 992 I doubt if it is solid gold!
Jon Hanson
12-27-2004, 12:01 PM
A quick test:
You might attempt to fix this case yourself--unscrew & restart by threading it on backwards a quarter turn, then attempt to screw it down (evenly)--by doing this you possibly might be able to "straighten" out the bent threads!
Made_USA
12-28-2004, 04:55 AM
I have tried that, unfortunately with this swing-out case the problem with the threads is very noticeable at the bottom where the thumb indentation is, it has slightly less material on the inner circumference shoulder. It looks like this was done intentionally for swinging the movement out.
I have to say that I've checked out the engravings by J.C. and they are truly beautiful.
Jon Hanson
12-28-2004, 05:49 AM
make sure you have depressed the swing ring part of the case down all the way.
made in the USA
thank you for the compliment on my engravings.
Try taking a screwdriver blade,(watchmaker size)
and looking real close with magnafication atexactly where the thread problem starts, you should be able to "scrape" away, or rework the thread at that point, (gently), enough of the problem to allow the thread to start. Then try as Jon suggests, make sure the swing out portion is entirely closed, then back turn 1/4 turn and apply even downward pressure while trying to thread the bezel back on. If this does not work, you will probably need to send it out.
good luck!
j.c.
Made_USA
12-28-2004, 07:47 AM
Yes, I’m meticulous in making sure the movement sits on the case properly. I have other pocket watches and they tighten with ease. Terry you mentioned that some gold-filled cases are 'permanent'. Does that mean slightly higher gold content?
I'm also in search of local pocket watch and wrist watch repairmen in eastern Massachusetts, any suggestions.
Jon Hanson
12-28-2004, 12:09 PM
contact Philip Welsh
Made_USA
12-28-2004, 01:54 PM
Thanks, but there are several by that name. If available please provide me with the town, email or phone number.
Jon Hanson
12-28-2004, 01:56 PM
west Newton 617-527-0075
terry hall
12-28-2004, 02:05 PM
the progression i spoke of above.. 20,25, etc ...
at that time denoted the 'thickness' of the gold layer (or how many years they expected the gold layer to wear)... this marking was phased out around 1924 or so...
'permanent' denoted the thickest layer ..... but it was still a gold filled case...
and yes, you could relate the thickness of the gold with gold content... in a way...
i believe there are many posts in the archives accessable by the 'find' button on the subject of gold filled.....
Jon Hanson
12-28-2004, 02:12 PM
"permanent denoted the thickest layer"--not necesarily
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