Faux Wood Finishing

[Robert M.]

Does anyone have any helpful hints for creating a faux finish to patch up some rough spots on a 130 year old Ingraham Grecian I'm restoring? I'd even be interested in some veneer tips from you clockcase sharpies.I've seen some finished faux finish applications and I was quite impressed but I'm unsure of how to go about it.I guess 37 years as a tinknocker doesn't prepare you very well for a career in cabinetmaking.All your replies are deeply appreciated.Thank you for taking the time to read this. Bob

[Robert M.]

Does anyone have any helpful hints for creating a faux finish to patch up some rough spots on a 130 year old Ingraham Grecian I'm restoring? I'd even be interested in some veneer tips from you clockcase sharpies.I've seen some finished faux finish applications and I was quite impressed but I'm unsure of how to go about it.I guess 37 years as a tinknocker doesn't prepare you very well for a career in cabinetmaking.All your replies are deeply appreciated.Thank you for taking the time to read this. Bob

[craig]

Robert,
Can you post a clear close up picture of the pattern? That would help. Faux work is done in layers to create an effect.
Are you trying to use faux effects to replace missing veneer? If so, why not repair the spot with real veneer?
Still, a picture would certainly help.

[Scottie-TX]

I see (read) two questions here: About faux finish and another about veneer. Now I don't regard veneer as a faux finish. Are you referring to veneer as a faux finish? What tips on veneering do you seek? Veneering is such a broad (no pun here ) field that a specific question or more would be helpful. Now faux finish I believe, is what I call "woodgrain" - an application that resembles wood but is not. Some are photographs of actual woodgrain that were converted into an applique - perhaps a thin film, applied to the base and finished. I don't know how to do it or make it and haven't seen any kits for doing it. I believe that one with artistic talent could perhaps simulate woodgrain with brushstrokes. I've dabbled a little for small areas using felt paint pens, etc. with fair results. It looks better than a totally bare area. I put down the base color I want then stroke with the pen and quickly rub with my finger to blur the sharp line. Just a coupla thoughts from a duffer.

[TomT]

Hi Robert,

Faux wood finishes were pretty common on the sides of many American shelf clocks built in the later part of the 19th century. I have some small Seth Thomas models with faux Rosewood on the top and sides and a large Triple-Decker with faux rosewood in the sides.

Duplicating or repairing this type of finish is not that difficult with a little practice. The material most often used is artist's acrylic paints thinned with water and acrylic medium to create a translucent glaze. Acrylic shades such as burnt umber, burnt sienna and raw umber are the most common shades seen in faux wood work.

Here is a small case that originally had a faux finish Before (http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/FauxFinish1)

How it looks along the way In Process (http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/Paint1)

Here is one look after some restoration After (http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/PaintBoards)

Here is another look Another (http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/PaperFaux)

Completed case Completed (http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/ReFinished1)

With a little practice on some scrap pieces you will be surprised at the result you can achieve.

Good luck

[craig]

Tom,
Where do I sign up for your class?

[TomT]

Hi Craig,

Somehow, I think you've done this kind of thing before........

I've tried just about every technique I could think of for this. In the end, a selection of paint brushes and glazes really can do a nice job.

I have quite a selection of 4 x 8 inch sample pieces I used to work out some of the details.

How's the gilding going?

Regards,

[Scottie-TX]

SHOWOFF !

[Robert M.]

Dear Tom,If I find out I live live within 2000 miles from you I'll be at your doorstep tomorrow clockcase in hand groveling.What a quality job you achieved.I'm thoroughly impressed.Could you do a more detailed presentation ala Hide Glue 101 which was also great.I'm sure there quite a few of us that would like you to elaborate on you faux skillsI mentioned veneering in my initial post in case someone wanted to elaborate on that technique in lieu of faux finishing .I'm open to all suggestions.Scotty I know how you feel,as if I didn't suffer from enough low self esteem Tom has to show me that,now I'm really in the doldrums.(laughing like hell).Thank you all for your generous replies,keep em coming.By the way it is a Rosewood veneer.Thanks again,Bob F.

[craig]

Tom,
Sorry....
I ony wish I had time to learn these techniques. Ah, so much to learn. Faux and gilding are not my strong suit, but here's the columns in progress. They're smooth, but I need to apply the bole, size, gild, and then burnish rings.

[TomT]

OK........

Scotty: "Ouch!"

Robert: I'll put something together on the steps in the faux wood finish and post a link. Will take a day or two.

Craig: I'm glad I'm not the only one that has projects ongoing for a lengthy period.

Anyway, the faux wood finish thing is a lot easier than you might think. A little experimenting and most people will have it down pretty well.

Regards,

[stewart]

Tom

When are you going to write that book I want to buy? Yes! do write about your faux finish work. I'll keep it with the nice work you did about tortise shell finishes.

Stewart

[TomT]

Hi Stewart,

I'm working on it, but it seems to have grow somewhere along the way. I should have something to post in a few days.

So, did you try the tortise shell technique?

Regards,

[RLBleecker]

I have an Ingraham Grecian as well. Most of it is veneered with what appears to be mahogany. In my humble opinion, if you want to restore it...it would be best to go the route of veneering. Most of the pieces are small on this clock, so cutting, glueing down and trimming should not be too problematic with just basic tools. Far more difficult is matching new veneer to the old.

A faux wood finish would be fine either for:

1. Sprucing up your Grecian, but might impact its inherent value.

2. If the clock in question was originally finished using faux techniques.

In the end it's a personal choice and both techniques can be effective where appropriate.

I have had to do faux marble on more than a few cases to restore pillars on a few old wooden black mantel clocks... Definitely a challenge to learn, but very fun and rewarding in the end. :smile:

[Scottie-TX]

Now Robert I know you're overwhelmed. O.K. a little jealous. But MAN! That was a low blow. I know he did come on strong but man I still gotta stand up for him. I believe he meant well. Robert I just don't believe his skills are "FAUX". Man that was really low. Robert I believe he REALLY has these skills and I don't beleive they're faux. I think his skills are genuine Robert. Please excuse Robert. I don't think he meant it.

[Robert M.]

Hi Tom:
Thank you so much for agreeing to post a link pertaining to you faux finishing skills.Scotty please note this time I noted his FAUX FINISHING SKILLS .(chuckling again).I know there are a bunch of us looking forward to your postingI'm taking the case to the Winterthur Museum Monday and I'm going to try to get some hints from the furniture restorers who do their preservation work.Oughta be interesting.
Thanks again Tom and everyone else who was kind enough to reply to my posting. Bob F.

[TomT]

Robert,

If you pick up any good tips at the museum, please pass them along. We are all continually searching for better (more authentic) ways to do our repairs and restorations.

Regards,

[RLBleecker]

:smile:
TomT...That's some great work you do with faux graining techniques. The results look very very good and authentic.

I've been able to reproduce marble effects with acrylic paints, feathers, and sea sponges working in layers and using 'Future' floor acrylic as a sealer in between. Future also leaves a tough high gloss outer coat. Acrylic-based polyurethane is also something I like to use.

[TomT]

RL,

The faux marble sounds really interesting. Can you post some photos. I would like to give it a try.

The link below shows the basic steps for faux wood grain finish, or more correctly, faux rosewood. As with anything, practice and attention to detail will help the results, but the basic technique is easy enough to execute.

Faux Rosewood (http://www.xrestore.com/Pages/FauxWoodGrain.htm)

I would appreciate comments on the presentation. Does it provide enough information to work with?

Regards,

[bangster]

In the olden days, faux woodgrain was a very popular bidness. Its most expert practitioners used the edge of a feather instead of a brush. Try it and you'll be amazed.

Bangster


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TomT:
Hi Robert,

Faux wood finishes were pretty common on the sides of many American shelf clocks built in the later part of the 19th century. I have some small Seth Thomas models with faux Rosewood on the top and sides and a large Triple-Decker with faux rosewood in the sides.

Duplicating or repairing this type of finish is not that difficult with a little practice. The material most often used is artist's acrylic paints thinned with water and acrylic medium to create a translucent glaze. Acrylic shades such as burnt umber, burnt sienna and raw umber are the most common shades seen in faux wood work.

Here is a small case that originally had a faux finish http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/FauxFinish1

How it looks along the way http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/Paint1

Here is one look after some restoration http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/PaintBoards

Here is another look http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/PaperFaux

Completed case http://members.cox.net/tnttemple2/ReFinished1

With a little practice on some scrap pieces you will be surprised at the result you can achieve.

Good luck <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

[TomT]

I have heard about using a feather more than once, but haven't seen how it's done. If you have any references, please pass them along.

Thanks,

[RLBleecker]

Originally posted by TomT:
RL,

The faux marble sounds really interesting. Can you post some photos. I would like to give it a try. [HR][HR]

Sure! I'd love to post some images. I don't think I can match your very excellent presentation on faux graining, which was excellent by the way.

I just need some time to set up doing some sample work and taking the images.

The link below shows the basic steps for faux wood grain finish, or more correctly, faux rosewood. As with anything, practice and attention to detail will help the results, but the basic technique is easy enough to execute. [HR][HR]

I don't think anyone will have too much trouble following your presentation. It would be a helpful reference for any restoration shop or hobbyist.



I would appreciate comments on the presentation. Does it provide enough information to work with?

Regards, TomT [HR][HR]

It provides excellent information! Wonderfully done!! :cool:

[Robert M.]

Hey Tom:
What a magnificent presentation you put together on such short notice.I don't think you could have found a woodworking book that could have done it any better.Having been involved in apprenticeship training for many years in the Sheet Metal industry for many years I always felt that the number one original sin was selfishness.That is,a person who has a unique skill or talent and refuses to share those god given skills with the less fortunate,those who genuinely use a little help.What these folks must be thinking baffles the hell out of me.All that being said I also believe there is a special place in heaven for folks like yourself who are more than generous in passing on their talents so others can enhance their skills.
Tom,thank you and all the other members who were generous enough to contribute to this post.If I pick up any tips at Winterthur Museum I will post them for everyone to read.
Thanks Again,Bob F.

[TomT]

Robert,

I'm glad you can use the information. I appreciate the kind words, but that's the kind of treatment I've always received on this board.

Phil Schilke has always gone out of his way to ensure that I get some kind of answer to my questions and folks like David Labounty and Craig Burgess will go well out of their way to share what they know.

Hopefully, this board will remain as open and active as it is now.

[Mike Phelan]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Phil Schilke:
Hi Tom,

I think your presentation is excellent and of great value to the viewership of this Forum.

Thank you for a well done presentation! <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
And another thankyou from me, Tom - that is amazingly clear and useful, and is getting printed and filed - despite the fact I have done quite a bit of this (here we call it 'graining') and also faux marbre.

[Robert M.]

Hi Bangster:
I didn't get a chance to read your post yesterday but made it a point to read it first thing this morning.Here,s another great example of a first class job posted on our site for everyone to learn from and appreciate.It was very generous of you to share your pictures with us so we can realize what we,re capable of achieving if we work at it hard enough.
Bangster,thanks again for your reply.
Thank You,Bob F.